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About niterida

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  1. Yes 7.2.4 Place seating (ears) at 1.833m from rear wall (1/3 room length to avoid acoustic nulls) I sit 3.6m from a 3.6m wide screen and it is just about perfect distance - so I would recommend a 3.6m wide screen since you will 3.666m away. DIY a spandex AT screen and put your centre speaker behind it. Make sure the centre is identical to the L&R - don't use a "centre" (horizontal) speaker. I used silver foil backed spandex and it is superb. https://shinetrimmingsfabrics.com.au/product/shimmer-stretch-spandex-white-silver/ Place your side surrounds directly behind the outside seats at ear level and pointing 90deg away form seating to bounce the sound off the side walls. Otherwise they will be too close to outside ears if you mount them on or even in the walls. My room is 4.3m wide and I only have 3 seats and they were still too close when on the side. I run them behind and bouncing off the walls and it is actually an improvement!! Use bookshelf speakers mounted on the ceiling for your 4 heights. Make sure all 11 speakers are as identical as possible - will improve the cohesion of the soundfield. If you can't run identical speakers, run identical drivers and tweeters or at very least all speakers from the same manufacturer and range.
  2. Damn I walked away from my computer just minutes before this was posted
  3. I may have a Pioneer VSX 1131 5.1.2 receiver up for sale soon - it was stop gap while I replaced my failed Yamaha RX-A3040 with a RX-V3079 and Rotel 5 channel amp. I have only just installed the new gear so not fully set up but the new gear doesn't sound any different to the Pioneer !! Those Tannoys I linked have a sealed back and you seriously cannot go wrong - buy 4 just in case you decide to upgrade to .4 Atmos later - although in your sized room .2 will be OK. $100 for 2 Tannoys and $400 for my receiver - $500 for a (mild) killer setup 😁
  4. Buy 2 of these : https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/brookvale/speakers/tannoy-cvs6-ceiling-speakers/1238996605 I have them and they are superb. 91db sensitivity and 90deg dispersion - perfect for a .2 atmos setup
  5. $200 a week is a pretty radical drop though Make it $20 a day and you will possibly get more for them ??
  6. I have bought heaps of stuff over the net (forums and Gumtree) and all I do is make out that I am local and ask when and where I can pick it up from. As soon as I have an address I am pretty sure it is genuine, and then I tell them I need to arrange my courier to pick it up. (the joy of living in country WA) Of course there is still the risk they will keep my money and not send the item but since I have the address I can always "send the boys around". Plus I never send any more money than I can afford to lose. So far I have not had a bad deal, and I have bought probably 50 items this way.
  7. I had a pair of towers and a matching bookshelf (as in exactly the same speaker but a shorter cabinet) as the centre and 2 bookshelf surrounds from the same line (same cabinet but slightly different woofer) all with 8" drivers and it sounded OK. On a whim I swapped them all for smaller 5" driver bookshelfs from the same line and the improvement in soundfield, cohesion and immersion was significant. So much so that I now run them as all 13 speakers in my 7.x.6 setup. So no you do not have to match the surrounds but the closer you get to matching all your speakers the better it will sound.
  8. Yeah if I hadn't just bought a Rotel and NAD amps I would be jumping on this - still tempted though. Slim chance I might be driving through Canberra on my way home to WA this weekend - hmmmmmmmmm
  9. I caught up with Liam this afternoon and got him up to speed on most of the HT basics. He played his PMC speakers for me and I can concur that they are indeed excellent speakers. Pretty sure he is going to end up with a killer room
  10. OP has a 13 channel receiver with 13 amps on board - 7.x.6 For The Win
  11. Also no - 2 Atmos speakers is not enough for 2 rows of seats and the length of his room would be better with 6, especially since he already has the processor to do 6
  12. Ah no - unless your speakers go down to 20hz you will always need a subwoofer for Home Theatre
  13. They are low sensitivity and will need roughly double the power that most speakers need to reach the same SPL. I would say that 88-90db is 'normal' sensitivity and these are 86.5db so roughly 1.5 -> 3.5db less sensitive. Each 3db of reduced sensitivity needs double the power to produce the same SPL. You will need approx 75w peak to reach 105db peak (reference level) with 7 of these speakers in your room. Your 8500 will probably provide enough power for this. But you may benefit from quality external amplification. I would recommend getting another of the same towers for your centre if you go with an AT screen, or at very least the equivalent (or better) PMC bookshelf. Otherwise grab the centre and bookshelfs you have been offered. Use the ELAC as Atmos and buy 4 more or get rid of them and get more suitable Atmos speakers. I didn't really mention it in my first post but going from towers and large bookshelfs from the same manufacturer but slightly different series, to all 13 identical small bookshelfs (from the same manufacturer as the towers and large bookshelfs) was a significant improvement in the soundstage and immersive soundfield. It became seamless and it is really hard to pick sounds as coming from a distinct speaker. So if you can match all your speakers it will (or at least should) sound better.
  14. Your room is too small for what you are proposing. I have a 6.25 x 4.3 (finished internal dimensions) HT and it is only just wide enough for 3 seats and only just deep enough for 2 rows. Yes you can physically fit more in but it will be a major compromise. Your room is smaller and you plan on making it smaller again with your internal soundproofing walls, so I would suggest you make the plan suit the room, not the other way around. I have a 3600mm wide 2.35:1 Acoustically Transparent (AT) screen which sits 200mm off the front wall and then I sit 3400mm (to the ears) from the screen. This is just about perfect and no-one has ever complained of the scrfeen being too big, too close or causing neck or eye strain. I DIY'd the screen and it cost me $80 - A bit of wood from Bunnings and a bit of Spandex from Spotlight I run a 7.4.6 Atmos system with all 13 speakers being identical 30yr old 5" bookshelfs and it sounds amazing and I run it almost to 0MV (it does start to struggle at that volume but I am working on improving that). The room is built from brick (thats how we do things in WA) and has almost no acoustic treatments - just carpeted floor and 55mm rockwool insulation on the back of the AT screen and it sounds great. The soundstage I get when running in stereo is unbelievable - it sounds really wide and like the centre, surrounds and heights are still producing sound and you have to physically put your ear to them to confirm they are silent. After reading a lot of research by Dr Floyd Toole and others I believe this is because I don't absorb the first reflections and due to the positioning of my L&R (800mm from the front wall, 400mm from the side wall and toed in to meet at a point about 600mm behind the MLP (Main Listening Position - the centre of 3 seats) so don't go blindly rushing in and spending money on acoustic panels that may not be necessary. Finish the room, invest in a proper calibrated mic and REW software and learn how to use it and work out exactly what you need to do to solve any acoustic issues. Note that I have yet to do that as I have not finished my setup completely so hopefully when I do it sound even more amazing. I have a single 3 seater and the side surrounds at the recommended 90deg were too close to the outside seats and were far too overpowering (hotspotting). Which is why I said the room was too narrow - and they are approx 900mm from the outside seated persons ear which is more than most recommendations, but to me is not enough. I modified my 3 seater to remove the arm rests between the seats and now the outside ears are closer to 1200mmm from the side surrounds and this is a huge improvement. Also since you are running 7.x.x you can move the side surrounds slightly forward of the seating (not more than 10deg) and this adds to the front soundstage, puts the closest listeners off-axis which reduces the SPL reaching them and reuces hotspotting even further. Some people recommend raising the side surrounds and aiming them at the furthest listener but I wouldn't do that with Atmos unless you absolutely have to. The rear seating you really should move away from the rear wall but if you position the front seating closer to the screen like mine, this is easily achievable. Make sure the rear surrounds are up high enough to clear the rear seated heads and reach the front seat ears. It helps to use low back seating for this - typical HT seats are a misnomer and not really suitable for HT use because of the massive headrests that block most of the rear sound !! You may also want to consider a 2nd set of side surrounds (fed with the same signal as the normal side surrounds) to help with the immersion of the sound for the rear seats. How often will you be using the rear seats - I was going to run 2 rows but rarely have more than 3 people so went with a bar setup behind the first row with just some bar stools for the 'nosebleed section'. This could save some money for more important items to start with. The room is definitely long enough for .6 Atmos so you should definitely set it up for that. The Atmos speakers should be the most capable you can afford and ideally match with your bed level speakers. Angled in-ceiling or angle mounted bookshelfs aimed at the listening positions. If you go .6 and use bookshelfs you may find an improvement if you turn the Top Middles 90 deg sideways (so the tweeter is on the L or R rather than the top of the woofer) so their dispersion pattern covers both rows of seats. Depending on your ultimate requirements for soundproofing you may find that just green gluing 2 layers of soundcheck plaster board or adding a middle layer of OSB may be enough for you. And note that you green glue the boards to each other - not to the framing. Although I have no experience with this due to my brick walls and this is only what I have picked up from reading other forums.
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