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About niterida

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    Geraldton, WA
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  1. hahaha won't be going that far $$$$ Would really like a 135i coupe - they seem to have started going up in value already but unfortunately once again it is not practical Might swap the Monaro for one in the future....... Still debating whether I should go for it - really struggling to get my head around the (now) 133,000km. Really didn't want to buy anything over 100,000. BUt then they are either standard or too expensive - oh first world dilemmas
  2. Thread on AVS Forum about the Crestron : https://www.avsforum.com/threads/the-ultimate-budget-11ch-atmos-amp.2980852/
  3. I just bought a second hand Crestron 16x60wpc (bridgeable to 8x220wpc) for $400 and it sounds awesome. The actual amps inside are made by ATI which is a respected amp in the U.S. It is powering my Wharfedale PA speakers and they now sound as good as the Krix demo room I auditioned a few weeks ago. Usually plenty of them on ebay
  4. Thanks guys - car has a metal charge pipe already. Haven't checked it out properly mechanically yet but the owner is absolutely fastidious so pretty sure everything will be top notch. I have approval to spend a lot more (from the finance company not the missus ) and could even get an M2 if I wanted but I just can't bring myself to sign away for that much money (and another coupe isn't exactly practical) so $25k is pretty much my self-imposed limit. I hate depreciation (that's why my other cars are a VZ Monaro and a VZ Cross 6 One Tonner) and figure if I only spend $25k I can only lose $25k 😁 Cheers
  5. Yeah might have to take the plunge methinks Just realised I would be quite happy to pay (or refinance) the $7500 residual at the end for a 12yr old car with less than 200kms and more (much more) than 200kw 😁
  6. Yeah love my E87 120D with M-Sport Suspension - handles like its on rails. Those vids show why we all love RWD and hate FWD I am actually looking at a 2013 M135i at the moment but as much as I love the car and the missus wants it too I am a bit reluctant to drop over $25k on a car with 135,000kms. We only do 10,000 per year so at the end of the lease it will have just under 200,000 and will be 12 years old. Really worried that it won't be worth anywhere near the $7,500 residual. The car is black (the only colour) and has about $3k worth of exhaust, intake and MHD tune and is in absolute pristine immaculate condition. The exhaust is the best sounding exhaust I have ever heard and is almost enough to make buying the car worth it at any price https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/perth/cars-vans-utes/bmw-m135i-f20-auto-/1251909481 Any body have any sage words of advice or just general thoughts ?
  7. Get your carpenter mates to build an enclosure for it the same as the rest of your cabinets and you wouldn't even know there was a centre speaker.
  8. Could do a retractable screen and a move the centre speaker in and out when you watch a movie and listen to stereo only at other times
  9. You do also realise that space will lend itself ideally to a nice AT screen and you can have any centre speaker you want then
  10. At least this one is a cheap rabbit hole........
  11. Oh man I still see so many compromises in this room and I don't think it will sound anywhere near as good as it could or should. Dolby guidelines recommend a minimum ceiling height of 2.3m and yet your MLP reduces that height to 2.2m and the rear seats to 1.7m. It also recommends height speakers to be 2 to 3 times ear level speaker height. Now given your seated ear height of say 900mm this means your rear speakers need to be at 1.9m to be level with rear seats ears and 1.4m from MLP. so heights have to be 2.8 to 3.8m high !! It also recommends rear surrounds to be no more than 1.25 the height of your LCRs which they will obviously be a lot higher than. Seriously I think you should ditch the rear riser and replace it with bar seating. Lower the front riser too. This will have so many acoustic benefits and will make better use of just 4 height speakers. (and I recommend the Paradigm with 30deg baffles for those). You are spending a lot of money and doing a lot of work for something that is flawed. Also for your centre speaker please please please put it behind your screen - I have mine virtually mounted flush with the screen so I only lost 300mm of room space - plus bringing the screen closer effectively makes it bigger and I sit 1:1 screen width to distance away and it is just about perfect.
  12. How about Wharfedale Pro Titan 8 PA speakers - on ebay for $229 and they sound amazing. I have 5 of them as my LCR and surrounds and I recently auditioned a demo room with Krix and it sounded only a tiny bit better then my room !! I got on to using PA speakers from the many great reports of using Behringer B215XL (do a search on AVSForum) but the B215XL are just too big for my room. Will need a good sub with these though as they are only rated down to 70hz, although I am currently running mine full range and they are coping just fine (but I haven't gone above -10MV) They will fit ncely in your space and can easily be toed in since they have an a sort of wedge shape and toeing them in behind the speaker cloth doors won't be an issue. On the phantom cntre issue - this only really works for one central seating position - as soon as you move to either side you lose the centre image. So unless you only have one or 2 seats then a centre is pretty much mandatory. And the Wharfedale will fit upright in your centre cupboard as it is only 396mm high.
  13. Sorry but that is not what you are trying to achieve. The ideal location is at 45deg elevation from MLP - whether that is midway between MLP and LCR or not is immaterial. It may look that way in the Dolby drawing but every room will be different and you should use the angles not the "look" of the Dolby drawing. What you do want is the MLP midway between front and rear heights. But also remember the Dolby guidelines are just that - it will probably sound good no matter where you put them (within reason) but just maybe not as good as it could
  14. I have used e-go couriers for over 10yrs with zero issues. I recently bought 2 40kg amps and 2 powered PA speakers from 2 different vendors - both professional businesses - and neither of them packed the items with any sort of effort. Both had just filled the cartons with small empty cardboard boxes , a bit of foam and some peanuts. By the time they arrived the cardoard boxes had been squashed by the weight of the speakers and amps and there was so much empty space that everything could move around inside the cartons easily. But credit to e-go all the items arrived without a scratch
  15. Sorry but I think there are way too many issues with your current layout. If its not too late I would stop work and go back to the planning stage. You need an Acoustically transparent to get the centre speaker up high enough for the rear seats to hear it. A DIY spandex screen is cheap and easy to do. You may need to lower the height of the seat risers otherwise there will not be enough separation between height speakers and ear level speakers. How high are your ceilings and risers ? You need more surrounds to cover all 3 rows. I assume you have bipole srrounds which work well for 2 rows but will leave the middle row (the MLP) in a compromised position. As mentioned the ear level speaker should have the tweeter (funnily enough) at ear level. You need 6 heights to cover all 3 rows Angled tweeters for height speakers are not recommended if you want perfect sound - get speakers with the entire driver angled or if you go 6 down firing with really good dispersion may be better option. Having all speakers exactly identical is a huge improvement and highly recommended. Trying to get 3 rows of seating adds enormously to the equipment needed and the expense for what may not be fully used all that often. Maybe better to do one row of 5 seats and do bar seating behind and bean bag seating in front for the kids. Could get away with 7.1.4 that way. When using the Dolby guidelines ignore their drawings which are not accurate - use the angles only, as they are accurate and the only way to get everything in the right location in your room. You will need 2 good subs at least - 4 would be better in that sized room 😉 All of the above is taken from my experience building and enjoying my 6.3x4.3x2.7 room
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