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About niterida

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  1. Yes you need an AVReceiver with HDMI. My HT is completely old and second hand : Yamaha RX-A3040 - $550 90's Mordaunt Short speakers (all 7) - $300 SGR 15" sub - $600 Tannoy CVS6 ceiling speakers (for Atmos) - $150 (and an old RX-V750 for $80 to power them) Optoma HD50 FHD Projector - $1200 Painted wall for screen. Total cost for (I think) a pretty awesome setup : $2880 My phone SPL meter has recorded 110db !! All from eBay and Gumtree
  2. Interested in the ceiling mount if you can post it ? How much of a drop can it give ? I need about 550mm. Thanks
  3. Quick note about this spandex with the silver backing - DO NOT FOLD IT !! When I bought it they folded up and I unfolded it when I got home but that was enough to damage the silver backing and now I have dark lines on the screen. Really noticeable when there is a light image
  4. So the need for a wire frame has gone and I am just going to use a wooden frame. But I threw the spandex up to see how it would go and it is brilliant. I cannot hear any difference in sound quality with the speaker behind and the image quality looks awesome. The photo below is just the single layer of silver backed spandex with nothing behind it except the speakers and there is no light passing through it and reflecting back
  5. I used to copy foxtel like that to video
  6. niterida

    SOLD: FS: Two Richter Thor PM-SW121 Subwoofers

    I'm keen - PM sent
  7. niterida

    Opinions required : vs 7.1.4

    I would have to set the crossover at 100hz or higher to negate the port I think, since the 3.10 and 3.20 freq response is only down to 80hz so I assume the port kicks well above that point. I will experiment with this too.
  8. niterida

    Opinions required : vs 7.1.4

    All my front speaker options are front ported That was one of my dilemmas for the surrounds though - the smaller ones which will fit easier are rear ported and will be flush mounted with the side walls. The larger ones are front ported but require a bigger hole and maybe some carpentry work in the cupboard behind - which I didn't want to have to do. Yeah I realised that after I had started arguing with him
  9. niterida

    Opinions required : vs 7.1.4

    Maybe 'wall of sound' was the wrong terminology - you still get the proper channel separation but they blend better and the centre speaker is not localised to exactly the centre speaker. in my setup during testing of many different centre and LR combinations, 3 identical speakers were miles (or should that be kilometres?) in front And I just realised I didn't mention that this is with the speakers behind an AT screen !!
  10. niterida

    Opinions required : vs 7.1.4

    NO - fronts should be IDENTICAL I read an in-depth test of different centre speaker designs and basically they all suck. The 2 best were expensive vertical WMTMW or something like that and the 3rd best was a standard bookshelf !! From my testing identical fronts is definitely the way to go - the centre basically disappears into a seamless wall of sound
  11. niterida

    Opinions required : vs 7.1.4

    I was only planning on testing without a centre because I don't have the 3rd MS3.30 yet and wanted to test like with like - I definitely plan on running 3 identical fronts which is part of the reason for my dilemma on the speaker choice.
  12. I looked into this also but as far as I could tell there is no way to transfer files off the Fetch box
  13. niterida

    Opinions required : vs 7.1.4

    Yeah that's what I thought and hoped would be the case. I am not looking at upgrading at the moment - in fact I just downgraded my AVR (from SR7012 to RX-A3040) so I could afford my 15" SGR sub And I just realised I could test this out by running the 2 options minus a centre channel (since I haven't bought the 3rd MS3.30 yet) anyway and let my ears decide
  14. So I guess you're thinking what the heck is ? Well it is my way of describing my speaker layout option - 3 identical fronts, 4 identical surrounds (but different to the fronts), LFE, and 4 Atmos speakers - and a trick to pique your interest I was going to run my setup with all identical(ish) speakers - Mordaunt Short MS3.20 / 3.10 with 4" woofer with a freq response of 75hz -> The 3.10s are exactly the same as the 3.20 but in a shorter cabinet with rear port instead of front port. But I have the chance to buy a 3rd MS 3.30 speaker, to match my existing 2, for larger fronts - 6.5" woofer with a freq response of 60hz -> I have plenty of bass with multiple subs and will crossover at 80hz (or possibly higher). So I have 3 questions : 1. Is there any advantage to having larger/more powerful speakers if you are crossing over above their low freq response ? 2. Would 7 identical speakers sound better than 3 & 4 similar speakers. 3. Which would you do ? I am caught between 2 conflicting issues : 1. Human instinct says Bigger Is Better 2. Home Theatre says Smaller Fits Better (well easier anyway)
  15. Absolutely I just did some testing with many different speaker setups with my older Mordaunt Short speakers. I have MS 05, MS 3.20, MS 3.30, MS 3.50 and HT30 speakers. They are all from the same series and age and are very similar but all have slight differences. The MS 3.30, 3.50 and HT30 are all 8" drivers but the MS3.30 is front ported and the driver is identical except it has a non-moving centre bit where the dust cap is usually found. The MS 3.20 is a 6" driver and the MS05 sis a 4" driver. I tried almost every possible combination of centres, including wiring a pair of MS 3.20 and MS 05 in parallel (they sounded good on their own that way) and using them with the larger L&R. I used Children of Men as my source as it has loads of panning of vocals and ambience sounds. My conclusion is that the tonal (I know it is supposed be timbre but that is too hard to say) difference was barely noticeable in the panning. Yes you could pick it up but it would not be worth worrying about if you weren't really paying attention. Now that is with my speakers all sounding similar though. So why did I say that it it is Absolutely necessary ?? Because what I did find was that when I ran 3 identical speakers the centre speaker almost disappeared. I have always found the centre speaking too overpowering and always draws my attention to it (I usually reduce the level by 5db), even mounted centrally to the image behind an AT screen. Now the centralised sounds were coming from an area wider than just the centre speaker. If someone was talking just off centre then the vocals were a lot less localised in the centre and appeared to be coming more from the actual source on the screen. I can't really put it into effective words but trust me it is a huge improvement. So rather than the panning being the reason for identical speakers (although it does help) I found it is actually the static shots that are most improved. I will definitely be using identical speakers now