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About niterida

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  1. See this : https://www.dolby.com/siteassets/technologies/dolby-atmos/atmos-installation-guidelines-121318_r3.1.pdf
  2. Look at Kilargo seals - they should have something to at least help. Is there actually a wall behind your seating, the 3d drawing doesn't show one ? If there is then you would be best bringing your seating (and surrounds) forward a touch so your seated ears are 1766mm from the rear wall - this will give best acoustic response and help to stop "boomy" bass. Although I don't see subs drawn - I hope you are using them ? Best to put 2 on the front wall 1000mm in from each side wall - although sub positioning sometimes takes a lot of experimenting or measurements, moving and re mea
  3. Do you have a totally dark (light controlled) room ? And are you planning on putting the centre speaker behind the screen (an AT or Acoustically Transparent screeen) ? If so do a DIY Spandex - will cost you about $200 total and Spandex is pretty much the BEST material you can buy for a screen as long as you don;t need one with a lot of gain (in other words not watching in a bright room).
  4. OTS - its just a daily driver for the missus. I will get her hand-me-down 120d Cheers
  5. Every single page on the internet rave about BM3 - I couldn't find a single negative comment. That and the distributor is in Perth, not Eastern States and it was 1/2 the price.
  6. Car and freight paid for - leaving Melbourne for Perth any day now. Going to put a charge pipe, down pipe and BootMod3 flashtune on it as soon as I get it. Maybe even an intercooler because of where I live is hot 11 months of the year. Probably keep the stock exhaust for now as they are expensive little buggers to replace.......
  7. Definitely go for .4 Atmos - it is far superior to .2 as you will get front-to-back panning of sounds as well as left-to-right. .2 only gives left-to-right. And bookshelf speakers mounted on-ceiling an aimed at the Main Listening Position (MLP) is the best option, with angled in-ceilings next best and down-firing in-ceilings the worst option and to be avoided at all costs. Ideally you want your seating (seated ears) to be 1/3 room length from the back wall to avoid lower bass frequency dips and peaks. Gives a smoother less boomy bass response. That means you want to move it forw
  8. Not sure - HDMI is just the way of connecting your PC/Laptop to your AVR - I assume it will be at least similar if you are just using 3.5mm/RCA connections.
  9. And here : https://www.avsforum.com/threads/simplified-rew-setup-and-use-usb-mic-hdmi-connection-including-measurement-techniques-and-how-to-interpret-graphs.1449924/
  10. I think this thread has rapidly degenerated from gorgeous to ugly looking hifi judging by the posts on this page. Apart form the Sonus Faber though
  11. I scored 2 - most of my correct answers were guesses - I couldn't tell one from the other on any of the tests. Better than just 20% of other participants
  12. Butt ugly - looks like an alien spaceship
  13. I tried bipoles and they were ok but I wouldn't recommend them. They may work but direct radiating speakers will be better.
  14. I am sure a Perth SNA'er could help you out ? I would but I live too far north.
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