Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

17 Neutral

About 1stThunder

  • Rank
    10+ Post Club

Profile Fields

  • Location
  • Country

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. What do you play through the projector when you measure?
  2. I think for a given projector, only one gamma setting is the most accurate. How come JVC didn't suggest it? Does 2.2 give the most linear response for the N7 for SDR?
  3. Here is a question: if you want to increase the overall brightness of the pictures, which one do you use? 1. Brightness / Contrast 2. Gamma 3. (after selected) Gamma -> Picture Tone 4. Picture Mode, Aperture (Iris) By the way, my current setting are below, and they are not necessarily optimized - efforts are still being continued: 1. Brightness (-2) / Contrast (0) 2. Gamma (2.2) 3. (after selected) Gamma -> Picture Tone (0) 4. Picture Mode, Aperture (Iris) (-3)
  4. I put on many SDR discs and was very happy with the pictures I saw. I think Disney Pixar has the best animation movies and I am always impressed by them, Cars, Tangle, Moana and many others really shine! All of these have fantastic pictures on my previous Sony HW45ES and now even better on the JVC N7. But I found an exception! I put on Coco (SDR) last night and found the color to be way over saturated. This is one of the highest rated movies! Just like in audio, different manufacturers / producers record and master their CDs differently and we get different sounds. Even for the same companies different mastering engineers can give their CDs different favors. I now think with video/movies it is probably the same. Some videos are a lot brighter than others. Some movies have higher color saturation than others. The discrepancies may be much higher than what we change to optimize the projector settings. Perhaps there are no settings suitable for all movies. We might need to customize settings for individual movies if we are perfectionists. I guess I am not in that extreme though.
  5. I did put on the S&M HD Benchmark disc last night. Unfortunately, I couldn't go very far. In the first step of CONTRAST, I was unable to see more than a few bars clearly regardless of the contrast setting. In the second step of BRIGHTNESS, I could not even see the black bars at all regardless of the brightness setting. I remember that when I used it for my previous Panasonic Plasma VT65, I had the same or similar problem. But I did get something really good out of it. In the past a few days I felt that the color tone of my N7 had a bit too much RED in it. I was not sure because it could be due to the content I watched. With the S&M disc, there was one test that shows a GREY picture made up from all colors. I clearly saw a RED tint in that GREY picture. So I went to Color Profile and decreased RED by -5 and I got a far more natural GREY picture. I watched movies later and found the earlier RED tint was gone. So I think that the setting of RED -5 will stay. I am very pleased with this. When changing colors in Color Profile, there are options of RED, BLUE, GREEN, OFFSET RED, OFFSET BLUE and OFFSET GREEN. I didn't understand what OFFSET means and I tried it and was not sure about the result.
  6. Thanks for that. I spent a couple of hours last night doing the same thing... Interestingly, those are now my current settings as well. I previously had MPC on because the projector came with that setting on as default. It was JVC's setting not mine: MPC Level Graphic Mode: Standard Enahnce: 5 Smoothing: 2 NR: 0 From the JVC D-ILA N7 User Manual, MPC is for: "The new image-processing algorithm developed by JVC helps to create a natural impression that is sharper at areas in focus, and softer at areas that are not in focus, enabling you to enjoy highly expressive images with a greater sense of depth." So it is really an artificial processing altering the original images to give certain effects. I would rather have the origin images in this case Having said that, Sony's Reality Creation is amazing and I loved that. While it makes everything look sharper It doesn't blur out the background like the JVC's MPC does. I don't know if MPC is JVC's effort to match the Sony's Reality Creation or not. I set it to HIGH previously and perceived the effects as described by JVC even without knowing what MPC does. Sony's Reality Creation and JVC's MPC seem to be 2 different things. I have not tried on the HDR yet but I think I will turn them off as well. For Motion control, I tried on a couple of ballet discs (not the best recorded ones) with which I normally get motion problems. After comparing dozens of time from different settings, i.e. Clear Motion Drive (off, low, high) and Motion Enhance (off, low, high), although I could see some differences, I could not determine which settings were more suitable. I guess I may need more experiments. I believe there are pros and cons with different settings, not necessarily better or worse. I think that which settings are more suitable may be subjective, i.e. one person likes it one way more than the others as our visions are different. And more likely, it may be more content and disc dependent, as different movies could be shot with different frame rate, etc. So at the end of the day, it is probably the case that no settings are right or wrong, and it depends on the movies/discs and the persons watching them. I guess I may set both Clear Motion Drive and Motion Enhance on but set them to low. I believe Motion settings are applicable to both SDR and HDR. I found the links below to be excellent explaining the subject matter: https://www.howtogeek.com/309443/why-some-scenes-in-your-favorite-action-movies-look-jerky/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AUipoxcYtas&list=PL_Lv84oYYLR-_iExO6t3N37yeVM_EkEQD&index=4
  7. Hi Clarity Calibration, Thanks for your note. My projector has only 10 hours as of tonight and it has not got enough hours for calibration. I will see how it goes from my own calibration and if there's a need in the future I will engage professional such as yourself to help. If that happens I know your contact. Regards
  8. That was more than 2 years ago. I looked for it everywhere in Australia and couldn't find it. I was told that if they made a special order for me from overseas it would cost me $5,000 upwards for a 110" 4k AT motorised screen, and of course, that is for the screen only. No installation was included. I had no choice but to look at the overseas market. I found one from a Chinese site TaoBao and it so happened I found the original manufacturer's outlet who could sell at better prices than their re-sellers. I then found a local shipping company (it might have been this one: https://www.couriersandfreight.com.au/ but they might have changed the look of their website so it is not recognizable to me. They got TNT to do the actual shipping) to ship it. The total cost for me was about $1,650 something. I engaged a local (Sydney) HT installer who installed it for me. He commented that it is a very high quality screen. It was produced by a HongKong company who imported materials from the U.S. Here it is: http://www.jk-screen.com/picture/showproduct.php?lang=en&id=134. Mine is probably this one: http://www.jk-screen.com/index.php/Home/Goods/details/id/4.html I can speak fluent Chinese and that helped with the purchase. Be aware that dealing with the locals in China without knowing their language is an impossible task. Don't get me wrong, most shops are super friendly and more than keen to sell you something, but they are only familiar with their local shipping companies and once it gets to international shipping, they get lost and they can't do it. In my case, they were terribly reluctant to sign the international shipping company's documents printed in English, worrying about liability of signing on a foreign language paper without knowing what is written on it. That is understandable.
  9. I am more of an audiophile than videophile so sound quality is very important to me. I double use my music room as HT room so the screen cannot be mounted on the wall but have to be dropped down from the ceiling. This works best as during the day the screen is up and I can sit in my music room listening to music while watching through two large windows to my back garden lawn and roses, and at night, I close the thick velvet curtains and roll down the screen for concert or movie time. The AT screen won't affect sound much so when watching concerts from BD discs I can still get the best quality sound possible, room-wise. I don't know if it is a concern - I can see light from the projector going through the AT screen to light up the wall / windows / curtains behind the screen a bit. I guess this would affect the quality of the images. I cannot change what are behind the screen and I cannot paint everything black. Having said that, the images look very nice so perhaps that effect is minimal.
  10. Just searched Clarity Audio & Video is from Brisbane. I am sure a professional calibrator will do a better job than me but before I get there I would like to have fun trying to learn something myself about my now beloved projector. 😊
  11. yes, I have just read the User Manual carefully and now understand what MPC means. It is the stuff I had better turn off.
  12. Betty Boop, I will try your recommendations tonight. Thanks.
  13. Did you ever see jagged images in fast motion? I was quite happy with my Sony 45es motion handling. But before I bought the N7 I watched the N5 from the shop with my ballet discs, and I thought the JVC equals or betters the Sony. I didn't note down what motion setting it had. But when I got mine installed in my place, I noticed the severely jagged images in the Cinderella ballroom dance scene, hence I was exploring the settings away from the default settings. Perhaps I am expecting too much. In that dance scene, there was close-up shot of Cinderella moving from right to left in less than a second across a 2.4 meter projector screen. Maybe I have to see images jumping.
  14. For SDR, when watching the Planet Earth II HD, for a while I was exploring the color profile DCI in addition to BT.709 as a result of comparing to Planet Earth II UHD 4k. For that disk only, DCI on SDR gave a much closer match to UHD 4k HDR, and I must say I liked it. The color was slightly over saturated a bit so I set the "color" to -3 to compensate. But when I switched it back to Cinderella and other disks I found BT.709 to be very natural and had enough color depth, so I thought BT.709 will be my final setting. The MPC settings were basically manufacturer defaults, except that I changed the graphic mode from standard to high-res. I set Motion Control Clear Motion Drive on high and Motion Enhance on low because when setting both off and watching the Cinderella ballroom dance the images were severely jagged. I love watching ballets and I collected every single BD album ever released from Marrinsky and Bolshoi, and many from Royal Ballet and Paris Opera Ballet. I watch them very frequently and need the best motion handling to see dancers in action. I have spent only a bit of time on this but I will explore more on the motion setting on the N7.
  • Create New...