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About Maz4bz

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  1. Check out Wayne Parhams measurement page. Many combos there including SEOS for comparison. http://www.pispeakers.com/Measurements/ I have the SEOS 12. Next build will use the Dayton clone of the famous JBL econowave horn which also has wonderful polars. The Celestion horns look nice and are locally available cheap. I think the pick might well be Wayne's own horn that can be purchased and shipped to Aus from his Pi Speakers website. Good luck!
  2. Dave, What have you used that you consider the last word for those kinds of enclosures? Cheers.
  3. Good enough to be replacement drivers for the Danley DTS-10. These must be more that $10k a pop in Aus, the single woofer version the DTS-20 (that inspired my Alpine- Lab12 TH build) is $9,999..... I like this Lilmike build called the Alpine Geist tuned to 16hz that uses a pair as well. Quote from Lilmike "We used 3 filters for EQ - all cut - and extended that to where we low passed at 80. NO BOOST for flat SPL to low corner before room gain. It's the flattest raw TH horn sub we have collectively measured." MMmmmmmm…. Makes me want to build more tapped horns!
  4. I've tried this with a different design and it definitely did not work out well..... https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/zilchs-ak-design-collaborative-econowave-speaker.150939/page-849#post-12858999 You may have better results but my learning is it's best to stick with the existing design unless you have the tools to measure and build a new crossover.
  5. Nice pick but woofers alone will eat the entire budget. My pick: https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/diy/classix2-5 I love the simplicity, bass and off axis performance of a 2.5way. My Klipsch KG's are awesome. With this design simply build the enclosure as tall as you need to have your ears at tweeter level and tweak the port in WinISD or HornResp to suit. You just need to keep the baffle width and drivers centre to centre spacing as designed - changing these will necessitate changes to the crossover.
  6. Yes some requirements would be helpful, for example: Budget: Enclosure size (stand/bookshelf/floorstand etc): Target bass extension (in hz): Target efficiency @1watt (in db): Intended use (%HT vs %Music): Will be used with subs? (yes/no): Anything else you can think of?:
  7. Epic! All I can think of is that this wouldn't look out of place mounted on the front of a destroyer and that my kids would want to climb all over those master pieces.
  8. Fair question - I have to say that my experience with the Dayton subs is limited to a 12" Ultimax and the 18" Classic Subwoofer that I did a build with last year. The Ultimax a friend imported from Parts Express but it was DOA with coil rub. This problem has been reported on PE's reviews section for these drivers. Return shipping cost meant that it wasn't viable to claim warranty on and so he binned it despite us trying to re-seat the suspension to align the coil. That aside when we had the Ultimax side by side with the 12" Type R he replaced it with, the R was in another league in terms of build quality and finish. I'm sure that when the Ultimax work, they are great, and I don't doubt the RSS is "musical". The Classic 18" Sub is epic value when it cost $250 AUD shipped. The great thing about the Alpines is that they are cheap, for what they are, seem unbreakable and have very good specs that combine relatively low Fs and Vas simultaneously - inferring strong motor force. As an example in 100 litre boxes the Alpine R 15's get down to around 13hz in my room for peanuts. Josh Ricci did a review of the SWR-1522D over at DataBass. My point is that comparatively, the current model R 12" (with 20mm Xmax no less) cost $250 locally. The local supplier Wagners/Loud Speaker Kit is very good value for Dayton products (I buy all my caps/inductors/horns/Dayton Omnimic/DATS from them and BTW don't work for them!) but the Ultimax is $460 and the RSS $395 exc shipping. That's not LSK's fault, I just don't think the Dayton subs in 12" sizes stack up when compared to the Alpines. Particularly when you can readily get them secondhand for next to nothing. I have a pair of the original R Types on my shelf at home awaiting my next build. I rescued one from the bin and the other cost all of $30. I beat on these in the tapped horn build linked above and they laughed at me. The bass energy from that enclosure is simply monumental and the value with a driver like this unbeatable IMHO. My next build using these old drivers is going to be a pair of series tuned 6th order bandpass subs using Brian Steele's box modeller available over at diysubwoofers.com. Check it out, it's a wonderful resource. If you have a google search you will see some epic builds that use the Alpines. Lilmike over at AVS recommends Alpines in most of his tapped horns for example. Cheers.
  9. For my money the Alpine subs are unbeatable. S, R or X they all sound great, and dig deep in compact enclosures. I've built home subs with them all. If you can find the 15" version of the S or R Type second hand jump on it fast. Compared to the Dayton Ultimax that a friend had the R was clearly superior at more than $100 less retail. Some of my builds you may find of interest.... SWR-1223D. 75 litres 24hz tune..... SWX-1243D. 75 litres 24hz tune.... SWR-1522D. 97 litres 24hz tune..... SWR-1540. 97 litres 24hz tune.... And the big daddy 18hz Lab12 tapped horn that any S Type or R Type 12" seem to love...
  10. Thought I'd share my "amp cooling manifold". The first one of these I built had three fans and was for my last pre/pro the Onkyo PR-SC5509. That was part of the series of Onkyo and Pioneer units that had problems with their HDMI boards that ran hideously hot. Had my HDMI board replaced under an extended warranty twice before I added the manifold! When the 5509 died in a fortuitous electrical storm I replaced it with the TX-RZ3100 that is really just a Pioneer SC-LX901. It has cool running class D amps and the HDMI shuts down after a while when not receiving a signal so runs warm to the touch with no fan manifold. I built a new manifold for the 3100 with only two TC fans. I like the piece of mind the cooling gives as this amp is housed in a relatively tight location. Seen here is the manifold tucked atop my receiver.... It's built on a scrap piece of marine ply. Rough hand sawn to size to cover the ventilation opening on the top of the 3100. Fans are Artic Cooling temp control (TC) and have a temperature sensitive varistat built in. I set the PC fan speed controller to supply just enough volts so that the fans spin up at power on. This means the fans are silent at my seating position. The varistat in each fan will then ramp the fans if the 3100 gets warm. Fans draw heat out from the top of the amp.... Controller has space for four fans. With the 5509 that ran really hot, the key to getting a silent manifold is to add more fans, not more fan speed. Power supply is a generic 240v plug pack from eBay that has the PC sata power socket on the end... Underside has some open cell door/window foam that is 9mm thick from Bunnings. This makes a nice seal, raises the board so that the entire ventilation opening on the top of the 3100 has air drawn up through it and damps any vibrations.... I'm no tech but I believe the lower the heat, the longer the lifespan. Hope this helps! 🍺
  11. http://wp.volvotreter.de/projects/khorn/ http://northreadingeng.com/Klipschorn_build/Klipschorn_build.html https://hornloudspeakermagazine.blogspot.com/2008/11/comprehensive-list-of-klipsch-plans.html?m=1
  12. I refreshed my nice 20+ year old Klipsch KG 5.5's and heard no difference A-Bing side by side old with new. I really wanted to hear an improvement - that's kind of the point right - and thought given their age I should be able to. I kind of wonder if crossover components of the same electrical values are interchanged, can you actually hear this? Sorry this isn't an answer, more a restatement of your question! Completely redesigning the crossover - now that you really really can hear!
  13. I'm no electrician but that looks like a LED downlight power supply? A quick search the Sure eBay store will get you LOTS of options. I did include a link to these in my previous post..... So for example, if you pick this 2x100 (that's more like 2x25 if you read the manual fine print) then you need a 36v PS. There are three there to choose from, you pay more for increasing output in watts (amps). I don't think you will do much better on these kits after adding in the PS. The mini amp will have some resale value. If my experience is anything to go by there is little to zero resale in these kits. Either way we are not talking mega bucks here, the convenience of the mini amp is what would take me in that direction. Good luck!
  14. Thanks for the compliments gents! The Meanwell power supplies are also sold by Sure. All you need to do is match the volts of the board to the appropriate power supply (PS). Just understand that the board is only as good as the PS that supplies it in terms of output power. Don't skimp on the amps capacity of the PS or your amp will be throttled by it. Same applies to wall warts, just that generally they are have low amps capacity. I found Sure very good to deal with. The first board that died they replaced free of charge, no questions asked or need to return freight the dead unit. I did all my business through their eBay presence. As a final thought, I reckon one of these kinds of mini amps would be a better bet. Their internals are essentially the same, great features for future proofing but with a nice enclosure and power supply included..... https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Stock-SURE-2X100-W-Class-D-Audio-Bluetooth-Amplifier-w-Mean-Well-Power-Supply/143317234859?hash=item215e5f74ab:g:Kz8AAOSwXkJavurQ
  15. Hey Simon, I've used three of these modules previously, two Sure 2x300watt for LCR duties and one 4x100watt for surround duties and built them into three separate enclosures with Meanwell power supplies. I replaced a Rotel RB-1092 and a RMB-1095 with these which were silly overkill in my HT. Pro's: Sound good; cheap modular to some degree. Meanwell power supplies are tough Con's: Fragile- I blew up a few amp boards by hot plugging them, the generation I had needed to be powered off before plugging in RCA's, this may or may not hold true today. Questionable reliability - two lost power to their onboard fans so I had to add some PC case fans and mod the power supplies to suit. That was a hassle! Need an enclosure really - to protect little fingers and house the PS and amp securely as one unit. Quite some effort to build up into enclosures - unless you don't mind wires and multiple boxes Zero resale value. They were a fun experiment but ultimately I went away from them and added a very nice sounding Yamaha AX-592 integrated to my system to run the L&R's when I switched from a preamp/processor to a HT receiver. I got this Yamaha in great condition on Gumtree for $100 inc remote. You may be better served by getting a pre-HDMI receiver with 5.1 analogue inputs and running your Marantz pre-outs into the analogue 5.1 inputs for your situation. These are a dime a dozen so to speak on Gumtree. Good luck.
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