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YaBoiiGarfield

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About YaBoiiGarfield

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  • Location
    Brisbane
  • Country
    Australia
  • First Name
    Jack

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  1. ahhhh, i saw that when i first started this expedition but couldn't make sence of it and disregarded it for an earlier model, now i take a second gander it is falling into place. silly me. bit of a light bulb moment there. enough of me making a fool of myself on a public forum, i'm going to get some sleep and battle on tomorrow, thanks for your time. You've definitely helped me get over a learning barrier and i am grateful indeed for the guidance. ... Rightio sounds good, hardware changes are a non issue. I'll let you know how i get on with the repair. Thanks mate, Jack
  2. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AUDIOLAB-8000P-Stereo-Power-Amplifier-Not-Working/124174514278?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
  3. hmm, how did you find a schematic? after searching around to no avail, I emailed them directly, and he got back to me and just said "Audiolab do not support the 8000p anymore", i wrote about that in the post that hasnt been approved yet, maybe soon it will be up. 'current pre driver stage', rightio, that is beyond my understanding [for now], definitely need to read up on that. I searched around my amp and couldn't not find those part numbers , it only goes up to Q128. which may because they dont exist??? I wouldnt mind having a peep that that schematic your looking at now, considering i couldnt find one anywhere for the amp.
  4. yeah sorry, i wrote up a post, but for whatever reason it requires admin approval ? It is an Audiolab 8000P, the one that sold on ebay recently
  5. ian changed his mind, so here we are back where i began, looking for substitutions..... The Donation to SNA will definitely still be happening if i can get the correct parts
  6. Thanks very much Ian, I'll shoot you a pm soon. + I'll give a donation to SNA It is a Audiolab 8000P , this exact one i sniped of ebay a week or so ago. I repair amps as a self funding side hobby. Since it wont let me post an ebay link, it is the 8000p that just sold on ebay that is fried. ... The amp has been repaired before, but who ever did it used a fake transistor, sigh, and here we are now. I definitely want to do this right, with no shortcuts. there are 2 pairs per channel, and only 1 pair are bad, so ill do the right thing and just drop in the correct parts. Greatly Appreciated, Jack
  7. PS; my other question is, Is it safe to run the amp without the output transistors installed? I don't have a schematic, and feel like its a good idea to just check the base collector and emitter voltages before i possibly burn up more transistors
  8. Hi All, After searching the internet high and low for an answer, i have to suffice and start a fresh thread. I've purchased a basket case amp for repair to find it contains blown output transistors, 2SA1216 + 2SC2922, along with a few other surrounding parts etc. These are not available anymore, so fingers crossed there is a good substitute available. After doing abit of research, it looks like that the 2SA1943 + 2SC5200 would be a close match (and available through RS Components), but i just wanted to double check, and hopefully learn a thing or two. Looking at RS at A1943s, there are Toshiba parts and ON Semi parts, the Toshibas have a Ic of 15A, and the ON Semi have a Ic of 17A, does that difference lean a preference to one part or the other? Looking at the absolute maximum ratings, they both look similar to me. my only concern would be the Power dissipation. my understanding of this stuff starts to fade when we get into the nitty gritty. Is there anything there that stands out that is cause for concern, to me, the large diffrence in Icbo stands out. I know for a fact that the toshibas a suitable for audio purposes, because that is what was in a C320bee that i repaired a while back. Greatly appreciate your input, Thanks, Jack
  9. Interesting thread, reminds me of what happened to my laptop speakers.... the same laptop i am typing this on now. so i was using the laptop to create a sinwave, to help diagnose an amp i was fixing. then the headphone jack came out, boom, my laptop speakers got fried. Now i can't turn the volume up more than 30% without it heavily distorting. Cheers
  10. Don't get me wrong, the DM302s are good speakers, I myself have a set of DM303s and they are great sounding speakers, but they are no where near as detailed as my B&W 685. Even my DM602s that i had are much better than the 303s. Stay away from "no name", and you be fine. are you comfortable buying used gear? because you will end up with a much better system, and the best part is, used gear doesn't depreciate nearly as fast as new gear, if at all. The 302s will be much better than the Voll speakers, if you were to buy a set of volls, they would be worthless immediately after purchase, which is saying something. the 302s are probably worth somewhere around $200 as they sit, maybe abit more.
  11. Line Voltage fluctuates anyway during the day. The nominal voltage throughout most of australia now is 230v, but it fluctuates throughout the day, can easily dip to below 220V during peak time (depending where you live), and can easily exceed 240v during off peak times (again, depending where you live). this is a good read http://electricalconnection.com.au/when-voltage-varies/ cheers
  12. hmmm.... If i was you, I would sell everything you've got and buy a nice set of used speakers and a complementary amp to go with it. The thing is, right now you've got quite a large collection of mediocre equipment, you shouldn't have an issue getting $500 out of it all, just throw it all up on ebay. Then find a $300~ish set of speakers, and a $200~ish amp, and you'll be set. Just have a single great system, because you'll find yourself listing on the best one anyway, and your better off having 1 great system and the other just doing its job.
  13. eh, I wouldn't worry about it to much. Invest your time and energy into things that matter. Happy Australia Day, Cheers
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