maxsimonjp
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Posts posted by maxsimonjp
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Not sure if it will suit you but the Dared lp-100 has all the settings on the front
http://www.dared.com.au/lp-100 -
I went from class A Pass Aleph to all tubes SunAudio and McChanson. Phono is also a tube amp. I don t think i would ever go back to SS. Maybe hybrid with another Pass Amp for the bass.
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Yes CMoy sorry. The altoids tin box
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Great review, i have 3 McChanson amps. Your topic made me dig for my old HD 580 and i plugged it into the 6FD7 i was not using anymore.
Directly to the speaker outputs of the amp, it made me enjoying listening to music through headphones again and really enjoy tube amps compared to McCoy based designs i tried in the past
Thanks!- 1
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Or this, McChanson. I use it on 97 db speakers and git all the power i need.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1x-Eric-McChanson-12W-5998-parallel-Triode-pEar-Amp-Tube-Valve-integrated-NEW/113724932498?hash=item1a7a88c192:g:EKoAAOSwRgJXkCj7 -
Turn phono pre, turn speedbox on, turn 3 amps on (bass, mis and high)
For the car, ignition on and I just enjoy the mid engine noise of the MG F -
Interesting comments nevertheless, i have built only one and did not think much about cabling layout and grounding. I actually got few chocked and had ground problems in the past.
I am not in a position to comment on the design but i first heard about this amp 25 years ago and could not resist to build one for myself. I think if i could make it work, with my very poor skills, then to me it is proof that it is a good enough design.
And i have been enjoying it for 6 years now and it sings perfectly well with my system. I now use it only between 500 and 7000 Hz with 2 McChanson for the bass and twitter and they match pretty well.
So I am keen to upgrade some components like the caps and maybe to revise the internal wiring.
But i guess what matter the most and we all fell in love with are the Tamura irons- 2
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Thank you for the tip, i am thinking of a bigger list now
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I had a look inside mine and i think I could do one small upgrade to the copper foil caps.
Do you think Guru could send me the same 3 ones ?
Cheers
Maxime -
Hi, that s sound crazy to me but what a job and upgrade on the Sun Audio. I probably did a shitty job building mine and keeping all the original components. I am very curious how yours will sound.
Did it come with the Sovtek 2A3 ? And are keeping them ! I do but i changed the original 6SN7 for the Sophia Electrics and it improved a lot
Well it was my first move to the world of SE class A amp and i enjoy it every day since.
I hope you will too. -
I ll take them then, thanks, i ll pm
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Got it in Brussels 2 weeks ago, not as good as i expected compared to all the DCD i own. What s your review ?
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Oh yes, a huge difference, i would recommend doing it every couple of years and not 20 as i did.
So nice to see shinny copper too. -
Thanks for your reply, i am now fully tri-amping with an active xover. 3 similar SE class A tube amps.
I am still breaking-in one new silver cable and will use the cardas and the other silver cable. I think they are of similar quality.
And i ll try the few possible combinations- 1
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I have checked this when i noticed one tube did not glow as much as the other on my phono.
It appears it could happen but nothing to worry as long as the amp sounds normal. -
Well it is done, i got the active cross over this week and i am using the 3 amps. Matched the 500 and 7kHz cut over frequencies and now enjoying active tri-amping SQ. The 2 McChanson mini 2W are now singing at their full potential.
Just one wonder with the crossover, is it a good choice to use a audiopro PA crossover or is there anything more audiophile like ?
I might give mini-dsp a try or should i look into the diy world ?
What do you guys use as active crossover ?
Could not find a topic on SNA
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I guess the question does not generate much enthusiasm...
Anyway, i got my active crossover today, plugged it as a two way for the moment, waiting for the silver speaker cables to arrive soon.
So i cut the oxydated ends of the SAEC copper and use it on the bass. The Cardas for the mid and high with the existing passive filter.
Bi-amping is already amazing and works ok that way. I ll put the silver on the tweeter and if too sharp i ll switch it with the copper.
Cheers
Maxime -
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On 25/06/2018 at 8:09 AM, skies2clear said:
There are a lot of options with both JBL and TAD if you are capable of quality DIY for a lot less money for some of us mere mortals.
Funny topic, my woofer is a TAD, the mid horn and driver JBL and the tweeter is a Pioneer. Very happy with the result.
I could only afford a Toyota though.
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The new Paul Kelly, Nature
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- Topic Starter
- Members
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- 74 posts
- Location: ACT
- Country: Australia
I bought the Cardas Clear light speaker cables from Scuzzi here on SNA and i am totally amazed with the improvements in my system.
I suspect my SAEC 6N cables got some oxydation after 20 years of good services.
I also own a pair of decent silver cables and my question is, when i will go tri-amping soon, how should i use these cables ?
My thoughts are the SAEC on the bass, the Cardas on the mid and the silvers on the high.
I am planning to cut the xover at 700Hz and 10 kHz, the mid being the most efficient component in my speakers, with a JBL horn at 117 db.
I suppose the best will be all Cardas but i am not sure i can afford 2 more.
Thank you
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I also use the Pro-Ject rpm 10. No mat and no problem with statics
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Sorry you are missing it
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End game speakers. How is it done? What reasons?
in Speakers, Soundbars and Subwoofers
Posted
Funny, i started with a loan to get my end game speakers in my 20s and still have them 25 years later. Spent money since on sources, pre-amps, power amps and cables but no desire to ever change the speakers. I guess it is the beauty of highly efficient JBL horns combined with Pioneer tweete and TAD woofers.
I am just happy listening to musics i love through different valves and amps. No need for huge powerful expensive amps too.