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  1. If you cant remove the platter, for a short controlled car trip, lift the platter enough to put some foam/rubber under the edges - this will mean the thrust pad and ball/shaft in the bearing are separated for transport. Important also to remove counterwright from tonearm when transporting. Feather & down duvet should be as good as any packaging - and use back seat - boot is much more prone to vibration.
  2. Hi Owen Great idea to distribute the mass to the outside to maximise rotational inertia and keep the overall mass as low as possible. The EMT platter uses this same principle - it weighs 5kg, but by distributng the bulk of the mass to the outer of the large platter it achieves the same inertia as a 50kg platter but with only 5kg.
  3. Hi What I did fix the sag was the following 1) strip the floating platter/armboard, and then trimmed off 3mm along the back. 2) Clamped the board to a flat steel worktable so that there was no sag, and whilst clamped I glued and screwed a 3mm aluminium strip along the back of the board. 3) resprayed the modded board. Please note the mdf used is like powder, and has no structural integrity. You might want to soak thin glue into the mdf and let it dry before you glue and screw the aluminium. If I was to do it again , I would probably use L section aluminium to provide extra stability, with the leg of the L shortened so as to not interfere with the foot. This fixed the sag and provided stiffening to prevent it happening again. Sold the TT after 30 years - still no sag.
  4. The most difficult part is accurately marking the pivot to spindle as suggested above. Ideally you want it accurate within 0.1 of a mm. One method I have used is to : Make a jig for marking the p/s distance on the armboard ; Spindles vary in diameter - what I do is measure the spindle with a micrometer, then cut a measuring stick equal to pivot to spindle distance less 1/2 the width of the spindle. This enables you to mark precisely on the armband the centre of the hole butting the jig up to the spindle. ( Make sure the jig is level and you have an accurate set square. If you have doubts that you can get it to 0.1mm accuracy then drill a hole slightly larger than required - say 32mm - then you can insert the arm/armbase and measure the pivot to spindle very accurately in situ. Then tape the arm base remove arm from base and mark off the bolt holes for drilling . For ultimate accuracy I make another jig to "pivot to spindle less ( 1/2 spindle diameter plus 1/2 arm vertical bearing collar )" which means I can insert the jig between the arm pillar and spindle to set the final position. With this methodology I can get to 0.1mm accurately even using a piece of cardboard cut with modelling knife for the jig. I drill the bolt holes slightly oversize for fine adjustment of position. In addition to using masking tape to stop splintering, also clamp the armband to a piece of mdf/ply under the armband and drill right through both - this will stop splintering of the armband on the underside as well.
  5. I have SUT's from Jensen , Fidelity Research , Altec 4722 & 4629, EAR - zero hum-nothing - not even with ear to the speaker. In my experience attention to shielding, earth arrangements and well shielded interconnects between TT/SUT and SUT/Phono are the key. I have noticed some shielded cables are better than others. If your system is having to process hum then it is severely compromised as is the sound quality. Imagine trying to run a marathon with a sack of potatoes on your back.
  6. Here you go for all the dimensions you need - http://www.acoustic-dimension.com/hashimoto/datasheets/Hashimoto-HM-7-datasheet.pdf So for box - steel is magnetic, affects sound, aluminium induces hysteresis distortion when passed by electrical signals. Solution to this conundrum is copper boxes ( per Audio Note ) or chrome plate the steel on the inside ( this negates the natural magnetism of the steel ). Cheaper solution is to use a wooden box lined with copper foil. Remember that MC stepups' convert high current/low voltage generated from the MC to very low current/higher voltage. Very low current is more susceptible to noise intrusion so therefore you should have very short cables between transformers and phono for best results. Cheers
  7. Andy - " Eeeerrgghh, no! What the "-1dB" in the spec sheet says is that at 20kHz, the signal is 1dB down. So obviously (if you know anything about filter slopes) " Actually, you are wrong - the Dynavector spec says "20 - 20000 hz ( +- 1db )" . It does NOT say it is down 1db at 20kHz as you falsely claim. And no I am not all over the place - if you understood cartridge design you would know that high frequency performance is not only determined by the electrical parameters, but also cantilever rigidity/resonance and tip mass all play a significant role in determining the high frequency extension and linearity. Dynavector spec - "20 - 20000 hz ( +- 1db )" In English the Dynavector spec means " the cartridge response will be within + or - 1db across the range from 20 hz to 20kHz". This means the frequency deviation can occur at any point within that range. It is clearly a worst case scenario. It does not say it is -1dB at 20kHz as you falsely claim. Furthermore if you look at the response graph on their website the sample tested the response is within +0.5db -0db from 20 to 20kHz - no rising top end , no top end droop as you falsely claim. http://www.dynavector.com/products/cart/e_17dx.html
  8. This post is nonsense - do you really think the Dynavector DV17X produces nothing above 20k just because their spec says 20-20kh +-1db. I think if you look at the hf resonance of the diamond cantilever on the Dynavector versus the non diamond cantilever of the Benz' the Dynavector more than likely has a far more extended and cleaner top end than the Benz. Furthermore I think you'll find the tip mass of the 1.7mm cantilever stylus assembly would be well below that of the Benz - meaning lower inertia and increased transient response - the opposite to what you claim. As an aside my Dynavector Karat Nova 13D ( 1.3mm diamond cantilever ) reputedly has a tip mass lower than the much vaunted Technics EP100 series MM - they both spec out to 100khz. Soundwise my updated Dynavector Karat Nova 13D sounds as quick as my Ikeda Kiwame ( which has no cantilever at all ). To me the Dynavector DV17.3 & X are a bargain compared to the 10-15k cartridges. Not saying they are better - but great value if the flat response suits your arm/phono/system, as far as I am aware the cheapest cartridge on the market with a diamond cantilever.
  9. My money is on the Clearaudio Satisfy Black - see how the finger lift is an extension of the cartridge beam. http://www.ukaudiomart.com/details/649409780-clearaudio-concept-black-turntable-maestro-v2-mm-cartridge-amp-satisfy-tonearm-combo/images/1768926/ Cartridge could be Clearaudio as well - early version MM.
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