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SmokeSupposedToComeOut?

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About SmokeSupposedToComeOut?

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  1. SmokeSupposedToComeOut?

    FS: QED Silver Anniversary XT Speaker cable

    Still available.
  2. SmokeSupposedToComeOut?

    FS: QED Silver Anniversary XT Speaker cable

    Item: QED Silver Anniversary XT 2.4m Pair + 4 Banana plugs Location: Melb Price: 80 Item Condition: Mint Reason for selling: Upgrade Payment Method: Pickup - Cash, Paypal, COD Only Extra Info: 2 months old. I think great value for money Pictures:
  3. Anyone heard the Quad 9AS? They appear to be great value if they're just active 12Ls
  4. SmokeSupposedToComeOut?

    FS: Micromega MyDAC- Price reduced

    Item: Micromega MyDAC Location: Melbourne Price: $315 $250 inc shipping ONO Item Condition: Mint Reason for selling: Selling due to Upgrade Payment Method: Pickup - Cash, Paypal, COD Only Extra Info: Awesome little unit. Made in France. Sounds Terrific. The drivers are a little tricky if you are using a Windows 10 system with Foobar. Had no trouble using other software. http://www.theabsolutesound.com/articles/micromega-mydac-usb-dac/ There are many more favourable reviews around too. Features: - USB Input working in asynchronous mode up to 24bits/192kHz and accepting USB audio class 1.0 and USB audio class 2.0 modes without any driver implementation for Mac and a custom Micromega driver for PC. - Insignificant jitter in USB asynchronous mode thanks to two very low jitter master clocks ( 22.5792 MHz for multiple of 44.1kHz and 24.5760 MHz for multiple of 48kHz), with dedicated low noise power supplies. - SPDIF 75O Coaxial input accepting levels as low as 0.2V p-p - SPDIF Toslink Optical input - Extremely low jitter in SPDIF mode (<50ps) - 2V rms full scale Analog output with low impedance driver - Integrated universal power supply 85-265 Vac / 50-60Hz. Can be used with high quality power leads - Unique design, extremely fast, ultra-low noise audio power supply - No electrolytic capacitors in the audio section, neither in the audio low noise power supply, nor in the audio path. Pictures:
  5. SmokeSupposedToComeOut?

    DIY RCA Interconnects

    In no way am i disagreeing with you. As i mentioned in my first post, I usually use coax, and i'm unsure if this is the best way of going about it. Really just experimentation. I'm not making any claims. Just explaining my thoughts when making the wire. Whether correct or flawed.
  6. SmokeSupposedToComeOut?

    DIY RCA Interconnects

    A faraday cage really just refers to an earthed conductive screen surrounding something. The end that the shielding is connected to, is connected to the amp which is earthed. So any current induced by external electromagnetic radiation will run into the ground instead of interfering with the source or signal. That's the idea anyway
  7. SmokeSupposedToComeOut?

    DIY RCA Interconnects

    I appreciate the positive comments on the design. Given the above discussion i think it's worth me commenting on the rationale underpinning the design i went with. I was aware of the unshielded 3 braided design and i chose to avoid it. Based on my 2nd year uni (was some time ago) understanding of electromag i cant see any reason why this would be as effective at shielding EMI in an unbalanced cable. I can however, see how adding a braided sleeve, which is essentially a faraday cage around the wire would be ideal for shielding. I think the intention behind the 3 wire design is to minimize capacitive effects. While this may be true, i didnt see any data confirming this. That's not to say it doesnt exist. I'm certain that there's an element of truth to the theory behind the 'kimber' design and i'm sure it does a reasonable job at shielding. If it didn't, his customers would be sticking his product in the bin. I'm doubtful however that it works as well as a braided sleeve. My $0.02
  8. SmokeSupposedToComeOut?

    DIY RCA Interconnects

    Today i was dicking around in the laboratory . I decided to made a new set of interconnects. Traditionally I have always made interconnects using well shielded single core coax. Through a combination of boredom and curiosity, i decided to make them somewhat from scratch. This is probably one of the more labour intensive ways of going about it and i'm yet to figure out if it's a particularly good way but I guess you guys can decide for yourselves. The method is as follows: The idea is to use high quality wires for both the signal and the return. Then shielding which is connected to the amplifier side. I started with some Neotech 24awg UPOCC copper wire. I went with copper as from what i understand, silver adds to the brightness of a system and my system is on the bright side. I twisted the signal and the return wire together using a cordless drill, holding one end with a pair of pliers. Then i slipped some heat shrink on. It's important to do this before you let go of the wires so they dont unravel. Now for the shielding. I was thinking of using conductive copper tape however a braid is better. So i bought some OFC coax from Jaycar. Put a slice down one end and pulled back the shielding. Then i carefully pulled the core out with a pair of pliers. The longer the piece of wire the harder it is to do this. Over a metre it becomes an issue. Once the core is out, grab each end pinching it and pull the ends of the wire away from each other. This will collapse the braid and pull it away from the inner wall of the insulation. then its easy to drag out of the insulation. Now you can feed the braid onto the wire. You must carefully push the braid on in a peristalsis like fashion. Pushing the braid opens it up. If you pull it will get stuck. Kind of a chinese finger trap effect. I used two layers of braid. Once the two layers of braid are on, cover with another layer of heat shrink. I used clear because i like the look of the braid. Now for the connectors. So i didnt mix the wires up, I wrapped a piece of white-out tape around one then with a multimeter, determined the other end and marked it. Decided which one would be which and solderd accordingy using silver solder. On one end, solder both the signal wire and the shielding to the inner body of the connector. This just invloved crimping the plug onto the shielding and adding a blob of solder. On the other, just the return wire was soldered on. I isolated the shielding with some green heat shrink. The connectors i used are made in the usa by switchcraft. I ordered them from RS. I used red and black heat shrink to identify each channel. To identify the plug with the shielding attached, and hence which should be plugged into the amplifier, i put a white band (i didnt have enough white in that size to do the left channel plugs) Here is the finished product. I have spent all of about 30 mins listening but so far so good.
  9. SmokeSupposedToComeOut?

    Upgrade path for my system

    The original dacmagic, the silver one. Yeh i did a bit of reading into this. I think the design was plagiarised from a chinese DIYer (a bit of irony there). I doubt they will have legal issues as i dont think the guy who designed it filed any patents. The resistor ladder design on the face of it seems great but as a few people have pointed out, due to the nature of the design, resistor values have to be extremely accurate. Given that resistor values vary depending on environmental factors namely temperature, the device is not able to produce true 24 bit. Not even close. I think i read somewhere that the effective number of bits would be 10-12 or so.
  10. SmokeSupposedToComeOut?

    Upgrade path for my system

    As mentioned in a previous post, that table's days are numbered. There's a guy i've found with a bunch of granite offcuts i'm going to aquire. I plan on using two pieces, the bottom with sorbothane domes and springs inbetween them. I also have some of the famous ikea bamboo chopping boards which i plan on experimenting with. I've read people having success with using a combination of timber and stone.
  11. SmokeSupposedToComeOut?

    Upgrade path for my system

    I didn't intend on that comment being percieved as a complaint. The quads each have a downward firing passive driver that aids below 450hz. They provide a reasonable amount of bass. It's tight, fast and clear. It supports the music as opposed to being the main feature. If i was to have a critisicm though it would be that the speakers are a little bright are fairly unforgiving on poorly mastered/recorded audio. As for the DAC. Basically the usb driver doesnt work after the latest update of windows 10... So i'm using the ASIO4ALL driver which is a bit clunky. I havent listened to it side by side with the CA so i cant gauge any improvement. To answer your question. Music is better now
  12. SmokeSupposedToComeOut?

    Upgrade path for my system

    So the end result was a set of Quad 23L floorstanding speakers, a MicroMega MyDAC and QED silver XT cables for under $1600. I dealt with Kevin from Class A Audio in Blackburn. He was terrific. The Quads sound wonderful, especially with instrumentals and vocals. Bass is very subdued in comparison to the Dalis.
  13. SmokeSupposedToComeOut?

    Upgrade path for my system

    Thoughts on this https://www.massdrop.com/buy/massdrop-x-airist-audio-r-2r-dac ?
  14. SmokeSupposedToComeOut?

    Upgrade path for my system

    Interesting. I bought the dacmagic ages ago for $100. To be honest I haven't listened to that many dacs. I will endeavour to look at a few more. Any suggestions?
  15. SmokeSupposedToComeOut?

    Upgrade path for my system

    I listen to almost everything. Bar anything even remotely resembling gangster rap or country music. I meant to mention the pos table. Temporary solution it's on the way out.
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