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Grant Slack

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About Grant Slack

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  1. Hello Marc, thank you. That link is the same link where this poster would have found the prices of $9,999 and $12,499, and the same link where a week ago prices of $12,999 and $12,999 were quoted. Today it is $12,999 and $14,999 on the same link. Maybe someone was feeding you provisional prices. Please let us know how installation and impressions go. And maybe a photo or two. Regards, Grant
  2. Well, I think they will do different things better than one another. Given that you say music will be limited to "in the kitchen or out back", and mostly for TV and Movies, I think the 5600 might have the edge. P.S. 46 drivers, plus sub. cheers Grant
  3. I wonder where this (bold) price came from. Was it here? It didn't seem to be anywhere near the eventual result of $13k. Note the US price of the 55 is 20% less than the 35. But here, equal. Something is wrong, AFAICT. cheers Grant
  4. Hello @Bengineer others are helping you with the separates approach, so I might jump in with some soundbar ideas. (I did notice you are quite open to a good soundbar solution.) Your Heos Soundbar is pretty decent and you did well to choose it above some really ordinary soundbars out there. Nevertheless, I would call it mid level. There are a couple of very big steps up available to you, with a budget of $2000. My first choice recommendation would be the Yamaha 5600 Mk2. I have heard this once and firmly recommend it for consideration. It is on sale at the moment for $1854, quite a discount. It includes auto calibration and a 10" 250W powered sub rated to 20 Hz. Yamaha have been leaders in acoustical soundfield generation since the 1970s, so the features list for this unit is not just marketing-speak. If you have a chance to audition it, don't miss it. Second, and worth a close look, the Samsung Q90R. I haven't heard this one, but it is very highly rated, and Harman had input to its development, so not just a TV company effort. Reviews put it at the top of the heap at its price point, and can be found for $1486, and has wireless rear speakers (still need a power cord though) and a sub. OTOH I doubt that it can do what the Yamaha can soundfield-wise, and it has no auto calibration. cheers Grant
  5. Hi Dave, "cheating" suggests that a rule has been broken. I don't see the adoption of subwoofer solutions that way, at all. cheers Grant
  6. Hello @tobias07 if you are very new, you will probably get, in answer to your query, a confusing and conflicting array of advice. This is because, in hifi, execution/implementation is more important than the type or principle of technology. Therefore, you can get terrible 4-way speakers (including terrible bass) and outstanding 2-way speakers, or vice versa. The devil is in the details. That is why, as a beginner, you cannot make good choices by choosing between technology A vs technology B. For example, 2-way vs 3-way vs 4-way speakers, or class A vs class B vs class D amp, valve vs transistor amp, etc etc. The devil is in the details. And, if you want to inform your choices by learning about hifi before deciding what to buy, you will be here for years. And you might even end up ill-informed, by listening to poor advice from 'audio gurus' who are actually biased and more in love with ideas than with pure, technology-neutral, results. To be honest, it's a minefield. For your money, I suggest this, (shop), and start with one subwoofer. Add up to 3 more over time, if you wish. IMHO the execution/implementation 'score' for these components would be 10/10. The devil would be delighted. Also, notice how they all have DSP control. I am a bit concerned about your large room's shape and acoustics. I hope it is not too reverberant, and you have some big soft furnishings and carpets and curtains. Also, aim for a listening angle of 60 degrees. This might mean listening at a distance of 3 to 3.5 metres from the speakers - perhaps by placing the main speakers approx 1/3 of the 10m room length from one end of the room, and yourself a similar distance from the other end. regards, Grant
  7. The mini-MF format of the Hasselblad is only 0.7 stops 'bigger' than the full frame, which is a puny difference IMO. And even that small advantage is only delivered if you force the same ƒ-number -- which they did in this comparison, ƒ/8. OTOH if you put a 1 stop faster lens on the FF and shoot 1 stop wider, it gathers more light than the Hasselblad and outperforms the small MF. Now look at the lenses available for the two, and it is clear that the FF equivalent lenses are usually 1 stop faster than the small MF format..... or more. Regards, Grant
  8. Hello Warren, as I mentioned, there is no necessity for an under-slung counterweight to lower the center of mass to a point lower than the pitch bearing. So, there is no in-principle objection. Implementation, i.e. poor designs, are another matter. But that applies to everything, not just under-slung counterweights! Regards, Grant
  9. Hi Owen, I think that only applies to static tracking weight. As soon as the arm is in motion, the effective (inertial) mass is the dominant cause of stylus pressure changes, and this is constant as the arm moves, since the counterweight is a fixed distance from the pivot . The static weight imbalance due to the counterweight swing action would be minor by comparison, probably less than 0.1 g. But it doesn't need to be the way you have shown at all. The big advantage of the under-slung counterweight over the axial variety is being able to set the centre of static mass on the plane of the record surface and stylus tip. And the ideal way to take advantage of this is to also place the pitch bearing on the same plane. Then you also don't have the counterweight issue that you illustrate. Your drawing of course does not represent this, and has the pitch bearing too high and the counterweight too low. cheers Grant
  10. Hi Owen, given that the distance of the weight from the pivot doesn't change, the effective mass also doesn't change. The horizontal/vertical vectors, that you are focusing on, don't IMHO matter. cheers Grant
  11. I like the last one especially.
  12. Hello mloutfie, what a great project! A maglev tonearm, wow. A consideration is the AC signal from the cart going through a magnetic field. There should be a tiny interaction between force and current. cheers Grant
  13. Hello Steve, when you say "installed" did you adjust tracking weight to the notably lower weight that the Bias 2 wants to have? The bright sound can be wrong tracking weight. Maybe double check. Yes, that would do it, having a different compliance. Bright sound can also be wrong VTA, as others have mentioned. Steve, is the new cartridge the same physical height (from record surface (when playing) to top of cartridge body)? If not, the arm height needs adjusting until the VTA is right. The usual first-blush guide to checking VTA is that the top of head-shell would be parallel to the record surface when playing a record. The new cart has a much higher output, but that shouldn't make any difference to speaker driver movement, assuming you have turned down the volume to same music loudness as before! The final possibility is a faulty new cart. Do you have a hifi store you can bring the TT in with cart installed and have them check it? Because I tend to agree with the comment that this cart should be well matched to this arm, with no compliance problem. A high pass filter -- if you didn't need one before -- might be a band-aid over a genuine problem. regards, Grant
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