Happy Sacks

The jet engine take-off noise was something mine has developed recently as well. Inspired by your post I decided to do mine too, albeit I didn't dismantle it to the same extent you did. I removed the front and rear covers and the power supply so I could access the fan and heatsink to clean them up. Issue solved. One particular design issue I noticed. I use the vertical stand and this fits on the same side as the air intake for the fan which probably limits airflow into the unit. Strange set up and I'm surprised they didn't locate it on the opposite side.

One thing I have noticed that was different on all the new AVMs & MRXs is that the HDMI ports are all upside down. At first I thought it was odd, but then I thought about how I have to twist my Audioquest HDMI cables to make them fit in the AVM 60 and it made perfect sense.

As a happy owner of an AVM 60, I'll be looking forward to getting my hands on an AVM 90. One of the things I've liked about it above all is that it's proved to be gremlin-proof in day-to-day operation. I'd also recommend owners occasionally (once every 6 months) keep in contact with Anthem regarding: Their unit's performance What things you like What things don't work as well as expected What improvements could be made to make the product even better than it is. Some of things I communicated with Anthem were: Performance of WiFi was poor. Wh

Good practical solution that should match in well with the level of equipment the OP already has. 👍 As practical and making it sound simple as always Snoop. 👍

I won't lie, I found most of the 9 episodes fairly meh to watch with Episodes 1 & 7 the exceptions. In fact I'd go so far as to say I liked the two independent spin-offs Rogue One & Solo the most enjoyable.

Yes, but why the bloody hell does it keep moving??? 🥺

Ain't that true of all of us, lol. Love the system Clive. I must admit it's tremendous to see what people have accumulated over the journey.

I've been waiting for this to come out and thought it was tremendous. TBH, I thought it was more thunderous than ever and if the bass was clipped I certainly didn't pick it up.

"In theory" the less components in the chain the better..........but that is "in theory". If I trust my ears though, my Parasound JC2 BP pre amp has proven to be a most worthy addition and I'd say it's probably the most talented component in my system. Too often I think we can be blinded by specifications, statistics and theories rather than trusting our own ears......which at the end of the day is where it's at. For me, I couldn't go back to system that doesn't have a quality pre-amp. JMO FWIW.

Thanks for all the enquiries. Sold pending payment.

Colour: Titanium Silver Extra Info: I've owned this unit since new and it was purchased approximately 3 and a half years ago. Comes with box, books, remote and power cable. Can be used with balanced, unbalanced or digital interconnects. Looks like new and presents as such. Too good a unit to simply be sitting in a box unused. Can be shipped at buyer's expense. Images: Photos: Advertisements without photos of the actual item will not be approved.

There's enough top soil in that thing to plant a veggie patch.

Anytime @Arv. Out of curiosity, have you ever tried the speaker cables plugged into the LF binding posts on your B&Ws or have you only had them either plugged into the HF posts or diamond wired??? I run Furutech Speaker Flux from the amp to speaker and Furutech Jumper Flux as jumpers. It's just the way my speakers are wired internally, but thanks for the suggestion...................and thanks for putting the thread back on track too. 👍

I get theory behind it, but at the risk of sounding obvious I'd say consult your speaker manual. Most electrical circuits, including those in your speakers, are designed to produce optimum results with the current flowing through them in a particular direction. For example, every B&W manual I looked at shows the speaker cables from the amp plugged into the bottom set of terminals on the speaker. Then add your jumpers. The manual doesn't say you have to connect it this way, but it recommends you do to get the best performance. On the other hand, the manual on my Revels recommen

Based upon your speaker specs you've provided: Look at the impedance range > 4-8 ohms. The speaker may only require 20w to power them producing a frequency requiring 8 ohm impedance, but if the frequency shifts and then changes the required impedance to 4 ohms then it may well need 40w of power to make that happen. The other thing the speaker manufacturer will allow for is that most amplifiers should be able to produce an unclipped signal up to 80% of their rated/claimed power output. 80% of 50W is 40W. Realistically you could have a nice little Class A or A/B amp that puts o