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Byron Bae

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About Byron Bae

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    Vic, Mildura
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    Australia

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  1. A couple of questions if you don't mind me asking? How much did you originally pay for each of them? And where are you from?
  2. Thanks for all the responses! In response to the people saying you need to EQ a sub with high pass filters on your speakers and so on. Why do no subwoofer brands state this or recommend this? I haven't seen any brands do it anyway. Even in they're instruction manuals for setting up the sub. Even if they did recommend it I probably wouldn't bother anyway. It'll be fiddly enough getting the crossover, level, and position right. Sometimes I think I'm being too fussy! Then I see people go to the lengths like you guys. Ain't got time for dat!
  3. Hi, I'm querying what people think of different RCA cables and whether or not there's much difference in respect to the hundreds of dollars you can spend on them. In particular, can there be any difference in the extra pricy subwoofer RCA cables to cause extra performance in lower frequencies? And if so, would these cables reduce performance in higher frequencies? Has anybody switched a sub RCA with a standard RCA or visa versa and noticed the difference?
  4. Picked myself up a pair of old Sugden P128 mono blocks for $450. They're probably a bit wasted on my bookshelves at the moment but they still sound grate!
  5. I consider Richter speakers to be the best for the price. They're quite warm and have as much detail as you'll get for that money. I compared the Richter's with the MA Bronzes and the latest Q Acoustics in the workshop recently as I was interested in hearing the differences. The Bronzes weren't even a comparison, they lacked bass and any warmth. The Q's were extremely muddy and lacking detail. I would never buy the Q's or Bronzes over Richter's, even if I was trying to save money. I've never heard any Regas but I've only hear good things about them. I can advise against modern Yamahas though. They sound completely dull and seem to have no balls even though they can boast quite high power ratings. I personally would be looking at Rotel and Cambridge Audio for an amp.
  6. Sounds like I'll stick with my idea of getting REL. I do like the idea of a sub using a high input the same as your speakers.
  7. I'm running a pair of Monitor Audio Gold 100s and am looking at buying a sub for some proper oompf. I've heard rave reviews of how well RELs integrate, but do they integrate better than a sub made by the same speaker brand? In particular Monitor Audio? If anyone has had any experience with this, I would love to hear your insight.
  8. Made the right choice with the OLED. Are you satisfied with both the Yamaha's?
  9. I would still change it myself to check if it will blow again. If it doesn't blow, you've saved yourself a service fee. It may have blown due to a surge or something similar. Fuses a very cheap generally.
  10. I worked out what was causing the random relay clicking. The fault only occurred on digital input. It was an intermittently faulty coaxial cable. The relay clicks on when it detects a signal. So the signal was intermittently turning off for a split second due to the faulty cable. Boy am I glad it was something simple. Hope this info helps someone we else.
  11. Thanks, I had a look for a schematic or service manual but couldn't find anything for my model or the RA-630 equivalent. I ran it on test all day yesterday at work with no speakers connected and covered it to get it as hot as possible and it got very hot, but it didn't click once. Connected back at home into my system and it clicked within 5 minutes. The only thing different in my home system is I'm using a digital input. But I wouldn't have thought that would cause enough extra strain if any to cause relay clicks. I don't think I've ever heard it click using an analogue input though. So I'm hoping it's not the Rotel and something else causing it in my system. Like a power cable or something. But that doesn't explain the transistors getting excessively hot if they are. I will do more testing.
  12. Hello, Not sure if I've posted this in the right forum possibly should be in the DIY section. I recently bought a second hand Rotel RA-12 to use as a pre-amp. The Rotel randomly relay clicks and drops sound for a split second which seems to become more and more frequent over a couple of hours of use. I am guessing it is heat related. It is also gets quite hot towards the back right of the amp. I removed the monoblocks I was using and used the Rotel as an integrated thinking maybe it doesn't like having no load even though the speaker switch is off. And that seemed to reduce the clicking considerably but then I didn't use it for as long so who knows. I have taken the lid off after letting it run for quite a while with no speakers connected and found 2 transistor heat sinks (Q905, 906) under the location where it was getting quite hot. The heat sinks are untouchable for more than a second, they're that hot. Is this irregularly hot? Does anyone know what would cause this? Thanks for any help.
  13. What he said. Cleaning the pots and switches with contact cleaner/lubricant is very easy and can be done by anyone. Pop the lid off and flood the switch or pot with contact cleaner and switch the hell out of it! Repeat if you want. Be sure the amp is disconnected from any power.
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