Jump to content

anewmission

Members
  • Content Count

    420
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by anewmission


  1. yeh i use the adi2 pro, as an audio interface for recording at home. rme converters are the best.

     

    nothing i have used has even come close. even the ps audio stuff i have heard still doesnt compare to rme. someone should definitely get this


  2. 1 hour ago, Mungbean66 said:

    I have a D50 myself so I know the PSU your referring to. DIY would be about $90-130 for parts and a case, if you can try and remove postage costs you could save money. Or if you have some of the parts already. 
     

    You’ve also have to factor in tools if you don’t already own them. 
     

    The problem then is that the linear PSU made for the topping stuff suits the DACs so it will look better and can be displayed with the gear. 
     

    There are also much cheaper ways to make a linear supply. Our DIY section is really helpful and could probably point you in the right direction. 

    i agree about it looking better,

    however i googled the name you mentioned in your previous post and the psu looks like its a totally different level

    the topping dac has one capacitor and looks very simple where as the diy ones have about 8 and look like very decent bits of kit.


  3. 4 hours ago, Mungbean66 said:

     
    Depends on how it’s made and the how the voltage regulation is implemented. 

    I’ve read stuff on DIYAudio about how some of them are ok but not as good as an actual battery supply or low noise linear supply.

    Take that with a grain of salt though. I haven’t tested any of this.
     

    Honestly if you noticed a difference then that’s all the proof you need. I wouldn’t worry about a low noise linear supply unless you can DIY one. A guy named PMillet has a lowish cost 5V USB DIY project on his site that looks interesting. I’ll probably try to make one of these eventually. 

    Looks interesting, how much do you think the diy option would cost? 

    My Dac has an extra addon linear supply but it is $170 on amazon


  4. 1 hour ago, Assisi said:

     

    Lucky you.  Have you checked your situation?  There are have been many posts on SNA over time where some situations where approaching the mid 260 volts and even higher.  Mine reached 262 volts before the supplier changed the taps on the supply transformer after I reported the the problem and the supply is now about 235 volts.

     

    I have a conditioner for my whole house.  When it was installed the default was 220 volts.  There is a 4 volt drop in the house so the audio system received 216 volts. Wonderful SQ but fans and drills did not start.  The default was adjusted to 230 volts.  I cannot change it.  The SQ is still good but my memory tells me otherwise.

     

    The higher the voltage the greater the running costs and the shorter life span of all electrical appliances.  For example, with the 260 odd voltage the LED lights often lasted months.  For example I have not replaced a LED light for two years since the drop to supply was 235 volts and I have the house conditioner.

     

    John

    Yeh I just checked with my mm 241 on everything downstairs

    I might chuck a really long extension lead in tomorrow and see if it changes. 

    My next door neighbour is a long time sparky, he's hooked me up.

    I just use an rfi emi blocker and soon to add a dc blocker. 

     

    I should probably check the output of the rfi/emi blocker also as all eight outputs from that is feeding my system. 

     

    I posted in another thread, I just changed out my dacs power supply, basically just a phone 5v 2a charger.. USB into the Dac 5v input with a portable phone charger. 

    The different was sooooo unbelievable. Unfortunately I can't charge the portable charger at the same time as using it. 

    I'm still shocked and wondering why it made such a difference


  5. Bi wiring seems like a waste of speaker cable.. I still do it for my second setup. Mainly because its longer run cables so my theory was it may lose less power by bi wiring

     

    I would like to try active bi amping. What I have done in the past is had two power amps which were identical and I had identical equalisers running from my pre outs through the equalisers and then into the power amps, one for lows and one for mid highs, that was some fun playing around with.. 

    Far too much power for my needs considering the power amps were 350watt into 8ohm each. Now I use one for my main speakers, they have a relay output for another amp so I use that to the second one which powers my outdoor speakers. 

     

    If you have good speakers with good crossovers.. I wouldn't worry about bi amping. 

    The way I did mention works beautifully though, you get a real idea of how speaker separation works


  6. I'm using the topping d50. Yes I highly recommend it, I had the d50 which was stolen.. The d50 and d50s both have tiny led screens but the remote on the "s" helps alot if you plan on adding a pc in for USB at some point 

     

    The strangest thing just happened.. I decided to run my topping d50s from a USB phone charger (a portable one) just to see if anything would change.... Ummm what the hell.. It sounds so so so much better than a wall charger? Can anyone explain this? 


  7. Can anyone else chime in? So the setup is pretty simple. 

    Topping d50 dac/musical fidelity phono pre/Cambridge audios version of oppo udp105 > the "switch" via rca cables > yamaha p2200 power amp which has stepped attenuators. So the missing link at the moment is the switch. 

    I make all my own rca, speaker cables and am pretty nifty like that so building something is not a problem. But which switch is best?? 


  8. This is such a good topic of debate. I am interested to hear others experience in this purpose. 

     

    By using the analog rotary circuit I could always add volume later if I decide to change power amps. 

     

    I understand the addition of adding the ground to the chassis. But as other have said, there could still be noise bleed from on channel to the next. 

     

    I was hoping to build the switch in a 1rack unit size chassis. 

    I actually have an old nad tuner that I could use, or just buy a new shmick one from ebay, having the runs so long are abit of a worry though. 

     

    Which switch did you use audiofeline? 


  9. With these relay style rca selectors I have noticed they need ac12v inputs? 

    Is that for the led's

     

    I need someone to explain why a push button relay system would be better than a high quality rotary switch? 

     

    I would have thought that 12v input would add noise. And the rca connectors do not look like audiophile grade ones that I have seen on ebay. 

     

     


  10. 14 minutes ago, andyr said:

     

    Then, yes, the volume control in your current preamp ... is superfluous!  :)

     

     

    It will certainly give you a less coloured output signal than your preamp.  But as a preamp ... generally provides gain, using just the RCA source selector may deliver a lower signal to your power amp!  :)

     

     

    That looks like a perfectly good unit.  The only thing extra I would do is provide an earth terminal on the back. between the 3 input sets of RCAs and the output set.  This earth terminal needs to directly connect with the case - it's purpose is to enable you to to earth the case (thus shielding the switch and the inside connections of the RCAs) - by connecting the earth terminal:

    • either to the earth slot on a wall socket, using a mains plug
    • or to the earth terminal on some other component in your system that has a 3-wire power cord (as its case will be connected to mains earth).

    However, using sealed gas-filled relays instead of of a rotary switch - if you can get these kits - will give you a better long-term result.

     

    Andy

     

     

    That was just a photo I found of somebody's diy project. Not something I have built. 

    Now I am very interested in these kits as a better long term result for less money sounds like the best option. 

     

    As far as the gain, I occasionally plug my Dac directly into the power amp and also my phono pre aswell. I haven't noticed a drop in volume but I can not say for sure. 

    The sound quality improves quite alot though! 

    So having the switch to be able to switch between the Dac, phono pre, cd player (which I intend to use rca outputs) and one more future unit. That's the plan. I would love two sets of rca outputs being able to output at the same time, though this is not extremely important


  11. OK, I didn't even realize that these things existed. 

    The reason for the build is to replace my current preamp as my power amp luckily has two nice volume stepped attenuators on it. 

    And bypassing a pre will give me a much higher/less coloured signal. 

     

    I was considering building something like the photo attached. 

    But you all think it's better to use one of the kits you mentioned ?? 

     

     

     

     

    images (41).jpeg


  12. Planning to build another rca switch. I want to use really good quality parts to avoid colouration. 

    I am planning a 4 pair input and 2 pair output. 

     

    I think this switch should be great. 

    https://www.partsconnexion.com/SWITCH-73306.html

     

    I need some help sourcing high quality rca socket/terminals. And as far as wiring, I thought I should use the same belden cables as my rca cables that I have made? 

     

    Also help finding a chassis. I would like it to be the same width as the rest of my gear so that it doesn't look out of place. But is longer cable runs going to be a problem? 

     

    I have been looking at these chassis. 

    https://www.evatco.com.au/1441-16bk3-black-steel-chassis

     

    And then just a knob for the switch. 


  13. 15 hours ago, sfdoddsy said:

    I’ve owned both SF and Dynaudio, as well as many others.

     

    Often great speakers. As are my current KEF R3s.

     

    But if I had just slightly more than your $3k budget I’d try and do a deal with West Coast HiFi on the Pioneer S2ex they had listed on SN. 

     

    Basically they are the $40k TAD Evolution for $3.5k. Same drivers. Same crossover. Slightly different box.

    I cant find them

×
×
  • Create New...