anewmission

yeh i use the adi2 pro, as an audio interface for recording at home. rme converters are the best. nothing i have used has even come close. even the ps audio stuff i have heard still doesnt compare to rme. someone should definitely get this

also, if anyone is interested, this uses much of oppo parts, but with cambridge audio dacs. the sound quality of the cambridge audio dacs are much better compared to that of the oppo's for best sound quality, using rca's from the 7.1 or stereo outputs into the pre inputs on your avr/pre amp

uses the same dacs as the cambridge audio dacmagic plus does. this is tempting as i already own one but want another for my second setup

i agree about it looking better, however i googled the name you mentioned in your previous post and the psu looks like its a totally different level the topping dac has one capacitor and looks very simple where as the diy ones have about 8 and look like very decent bits of kit.

Pricey! Would these be better quality than the gold plated elma rotary in parts connexion??

Looks interesting, how much do you think the diy option would cost? My Dac has an extra addon linear supply but it is $170 on amazon

So it's better than a 5v phone charger but not as good as a linear power supply?

What does the cu stand for? Having trouble finding it?

So what would be the best conductor for rca sockets/connectors? Brass? Copper? Rhodium plated copper? Gold plated copper? Silver plated copper? Some kind of plated brass?

Yeh I just checked with my mm 241 on everything downstairs I might chuck a really long extension lead in tomorrow and see if it changes. My next door neighbour is a long time sparky, he's hooked me up. I just use an rfi emi blocker and soon to add a dc blocker. I should probably check the output of the rfi/emi blocker also as all eight outputs from that is feeding my system. I posted in another thread, I just changed out my dacs power supply, basically just a phone 5v 2a charger.. USB into the Dac 5v input with a portable phone charger. The different was sooooo unbelievable. Unfortunately I can't charge the portable charger at the same time as using it. I'm still shocked and wondering why it made such a difference

Bi wiring seems like a waste of speaker cable.. I still do it for my second setup. Mainly because its longer run cables so my theory was it may lose less power by bi wiring I would like to try active bi amping. What I have done in the past is had two power amps which were identical and I had identical equalisers running from my pre outs through the equalisers and then into the power amps, one for lows and one for mid highs, that was some fun playing around with.. Far too much power for my needs considering the power amps were 350watt into 8ohm each. Now I use one for my main speakers, they have a relay output for another amp so I use that to the second one which powers my outdoor speakers. If you have good speakers with good crossovers.. I wouldn't worry about bi amping. The way I did mention works beautifully though, you get a real idea of how speaker separation works

I'm using the topping d50. Yes I highly recommend it, I had the d50 which was stolen.. The d50 and d50s both have tiny led screens but the remote on the "s" helps alot if you plan on adding a pc in for USB at some point The strangest thing just happened.. I decided to run my topping d50s from a USB phone charger (a portable one) just to see if anything would change.... Ummm what the hell.. It sounds so so so much better than a wall charger? Can anyone explain this?

240 is fine. Check the output of your wall sockets. Will be somewhere between 225-245 anyway

Can anyone else chime in? So the setup is pretty simple. Topping d50 dac/musical fidelity phono pre/Cambridge audios version of oppo udp105 > the "switch" via rca cables > yamaha p2200 power amp which has stepped attenuators. So the missing link at the moment is the switch. I make all my own rca, speaker cables and am pretty nifty like that so building something is not a problem. But which switch is best??

This is such a good topic of debate. I am interested to hear others experience in this purpose. By using the analog rotary circuit I could always add volume later if I decide to change power amps. I understand the addition of adding the ground to the chassis. But as other have said, there could still be noise bleed from on channel to the next. I was hoping to build the switch in a 1rack unit size chassis. I actually have an old nad tuner that I could use, or just buy a new shmick one from ebay, having the runs so long are abit of a worry though. Which switch did you use audiofeline?