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rodders3

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About rodders3

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    50+ Post Club
  • Birthday 28/09/1970

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    Melbourne
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    Aus

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  1. rodders3

    Amp repairs in Melbourne

    Hi Paul. I'm not certain he can or will do it but Gary Cawsey is a great person to contact. He is very close to you just off Sydney Rd near North Carlton. Cawsey Audio I think is the name. Good luck.
  2. rodders3

    Luxman LV -112 feedback

    The above is a bargain and I have a Luxman amp I bought from Boidos before. Buy with confidence.
  3. rodders3

    Record shops in Hobart?

    There is a whole thread on here already. Tommy gun in Elizabeth St is great, Aeroplane Record stall at Salamanca not so. Anyway, wait a few days before buying anything..... I am in the Qantas club typing this on my way to Hobart right now and don't want the good stuff to go!
  4. Could I please grab these thanks mate: Joy Division – Transmission 12’’ Single VG+/VG+ $20 Joy Division – Atmosphere 12’’ Single Facus 2 – Translucent red vinyl Ringwear VG/VG+ $35 Joy Division – Love Will Tear Us Apart 12’’ Single Lyntone pressing VG/VG+ $22 Dead Or Alive – You Spin Me Round Japan no Obi shrink wrap EX+/EX+ $16
  5. Hoodoo Gurus - my favourite aussie band growing up. Awesome live and have seen them many, many times. My wife recently bought me the re release of their entire albums. You get one every month - or at least meant too. Apart from stuff ups of epic proportion (wrong State sent to despite correct address, missing posters, ripped album covers), the bloody things are coloured vinyl and sound atrocious. The original early stuff was pretty good but the new stuff - awful!
  6. Guys, thanks for all the offers. Have quite a few PM's and I'm waiting to hear confirmation from an early PM'er. If I don't hear anything by later this arvo I will PM those in line. Cheers, Rod
  7. Item: Origin Live Alliance tonearm - $225 Location: Melbourne Price: $225 Item Condition: great used condition. Reason for selling: Not required Payment Method: Pickup - Cash, Paypal, COD Only Extra Info: Was on a Linn Lp12 I purchased - upgraded to new Akito so no need for this. Comes with all docs and accessories. In original box so can post at cost. Great used condition with slight marks where tonearm and cart holds. Can pick up Albert Park VIC but away from 3 - 10 Jan. Pictures:
  8. rodders3

    Building a Mober Linn LP12 with no idea.

    Love it @mitchlim. Looks like the Ikea board should come standard! Is that the trampolin fitted to the base? Looks sensational.
  9. rodders3

    Building a Mober Linn LP12 with no idea.

    Hey Edmund, welcome to the forum! Thanks for the tip, will have a go at it this week. Be great to have your input here. Cheers, Rod
  10. rodders3

    Building a Mober Linn LP12 with no idea.

    Thanks again guys. I actually did a lot of online research and was aware the tonearm cable needed to be as straight as possible to the p clip and then feed out into the hole to TT. The possible snag scenario needed to be avoided for obvious reasons on the suspension. I may have been a bit to zealous hence the tone arm board pulls a little to far to the left. Still sounds great but will change when I do base board change. I also bought a Kirmuss Audio sale yesterday on sale for $1190 so having fun do all records. The inventor came across as a complete **** but I like the ease of cleaning and results are very very good.
  11. rodders3

    Linn tonearm help - angry and desperate

    Not sure what your "just saying" @Chill3 but as I indicated in my post here it was the lack of any instructions from Linn as to the setup of the arm that frustrated me. Thankfully helpful members of SNA provided input which solved the matter for me right away. As for why I modified my LP12 - why not? It was a great learning process and the results have exceeded my expectations. I could have easily paid for someone else to do it for me but I doubt I would learn much in the process. I posted another topic as to that build here. I hope it encourages people with little or no practical skills who think they may wish to have a go do just that. For me it has now added to my enjoyment of this hobby. I have now learnt skills, including the tonearm setup, which will stay with me for life.
  12. rodders3

    Building a Mober Linn LP12 with no idea.

    Thanks guys. Very satisfying to build it myself and sound so good. I should add one of the hardest parts was attaching the cart wires to the tonearm. I originally put them on the arm first but as I was attaching the red wire fell off the arm and had to start again. They seemed loose arm end and impossibly tight cart end. I tried a toothpick to widen but still very tight. Ended up the only way I could do it was cart first and rest on small box while attach to arm. I hate fiddly things!
  13. I’ll start off with an admission – I have no idea what I’m doing. Never built anything remotely electrical or fiddly in my life. Cannot even recall the old man putting a nail in a wall. With that said, I thought it be a great idea to take a perfectly sound classic ’76 Linn LP12 and rip it to bits. I got the Linn off here from another SNA’er in the classifieds. It was in wonderful original condition. The plinth is sensational. The bearing was the white one, the sub chassis and everything else except the PSU was also original. It was updated at some stage to the Valhalla. It came with an Origin Live Alliance tonearm. Origin Live don’t mention much about the Alliance on their website other than it is cheap. I assume they are embarrassed. Being kind, I would describe the arm as crap. When I sell it here, I may choose another description (it’s still rubbish though). The cart was a Benz Micro SL in great condition. Here is the original Linn. I was not expecting much when I plugged it in. The tonearm cable looks very much like those $1 RCA’s you get free and toss in the bin. I was shocked how good it sounded compared to my Rega P6. The P6 was still a better sound but I didn’t think it was an even match – a new 2018 Rega v a 42 year old Linn. The Linn was extremely bright. It sounded very much top heavy. It really didn’t have much bass at all. I tried to increase the bass on my Luxman SQ38 but it didn’t do a lot. Even still, I loved the look of the Linn and was keen to update it. There are a lot of options I soon found. My initial thoughts was to go all Linn. I then soon found my costs would be for Kore, new springs, Lingo 4 and Akito arm – all put together around $8k. This is on top of my $2k for the Linn. $10k all up. Another option was Mober Linn parts. I did a fair bit of reading here and the UK forums. Linn of course just canned their forum so no luck on that. The info on SNA was invaluable. Not only did I gain great info, but also found Mober’s owner and designer Edmund’s direct email address. This was the fastest way to communicate with Edmund. He also has an ebay page and facebook. I had no issues dealing direct with Edmund given his reputation on forums and was more than pleased when he was able to offer me a great deal on a Mober sub chassis, PSU, bearing and sub platter – US$1750 delievered. Speaking of delivery, Edmund was amazing. Paid Thursday, arrived Monday. Incredible service and well packaged from Hong Kong. Inspection of the Mober parts screamed quality. The DC motor I believe is sourced from the same manufacturer Linn get theirs, Maxtor. The sub chassis was very well made as were the bearing and sub platter. Instruction for installation of the PSU are supplied but non for the bearing and sub chassis. To be fair, they are self explanatory. Take out the old part, install the new. Stripping the Linn was not difficult. I drained the old bearing and put a cap on it. The tonearm was then removed. I then turned it upside down resting on some foam. My biggest hiccup was disconnecting the power cord from the Valhalla. I had an idea capacitors stored power but no idea if enough to kill me even if unplugged. My wife didn’t take kindly to doing this for me either with the dog and I watching from another room. I ended up going to Bunnings and buying an electrician’s screwdriver for $10. Perfectly safe to remove. The ribbon to the on/off switch just slides out of the Valhalla end and the switch pops out. Installing the new motor was also a breeze. Edmund provides very clear instructions and there is also a youtube vid of some UK bloke having a crack at it. All the new bits fit and use the existing screw holes etc. The power is connected via a XLR cable to the Mober PSU unit. The unit is well made and not ugly. The lights on the unit switch off once stable 33.3 or 45 rpm is established. The bearing came with a little black oil. It was not a lot of oil at all. With no instructions, I assumed you just put the lot in and did so. It is silent when coupled with the Mober sub platter. The platter just keeps spinning. It has a small ball bearing on the end that fits in the bearing. To adjust the springs my jig consisted of three dinning chairs. I levelled up the Linn before working on adjusting the springs. I was worried that this would be difficult but wasn’t too bad at all. The best advice I read online was from a UK supplier, Cymbiosis, that said have a go, make a cup of tea, have another go, more tea, etc… It took patience but I got there, or so I thought. While it was easy to get level, and even looking good with the tonearm board, I soon discovered that I had the platter sitting too high. I found this because when I tested the Mober PSU it wouldn’t turn past 1-7 rpm’s. I worked out the sensor on the top plate was clearly too far from the strobe sticker that you attach to the outer platter. It wasn’t reading properly – much better than a stuffed psu I thought had happened. I should also say you adjust the suspension with the platters on and the belt attached. I had new springs, grommets, belt and screws I got from decibel hifi. I only ordered 3 springs and decided one wasn’t that great. I used the best old spring which I may add looked great in any event. I also sourced a new akito 3b tonearm. No instructions from Linn which I ranted about in another thread but was able to solve thanks to SNA again. Also scored a new Ortofon stylus guage which is magic. I replaced the Benz cart. To do this I considered purchasing a Dr Freikert but at $320 seemed a lot. A search on the net and it was solved for $3.16. A3 copy 16c and laminate $3 at officeworks. Used a plate to cut out. Works a treat. A final test and then I put the base board back on. The new tonearm cable was difficult to squeeze in the out hole being a lot thicker. I may go the Linn trampoline in the future. After a frustrating attempt to get the tonearm correct – not one piece of advice provided, nada on the net as well, pretty ordinary Linn!, I finally got it all together. I truly wasn’t expecting much as I assumed based on experience something would be stuffed up. It was wonderful. The soundstage appeared. There was bass, sharp and tight. Mids and highs are precise. I am amazed how good it sounds given my lack of any experience with this stuff. I still have some adjustments to do (the tonearm cable is too tight and pulling the board too close to the top plate – an easy fix), but nothing major. The player is totally silent – I cannot hear the motor as too the platter. The PSU takes about 10 secs to get to speed but 30 secs to stop. I just get the next lp ready. All up this cost approx. $7500. Not cheap, but I have the best sounding TT I have ever owned and learned a lot in the process. I highly recommend Mober and contacting Edmund direct via email. If I can do it, anyone can.
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