hifix

No mention of Hilltop ? This music video puts a smile on.

Very nice. I've wanted a pair of 1200's for some time...

I'm with this guy.

A TDA7297 with a less than ideal potentiometer.

The tributaries to the river of "must have" can meander through the fortitude of a mind given to compromise. The advertisers here have nothing to worry about.

I had a big knob once. Its now with AJ (on these forums)

Replied to your PM.

Item: Solid Aluminium Volume Control Knobs - to suit 6mm shaft (ALPS RK27 etc). Location:Perth Price: $20 Item Condition: New Reason for selling: I'm clearing spares (i've got heaps spares for numeours preamp projects that all seemed like good ideas at the time). Payment Method: Pickup - Cash Extra Info: Items were purchased new. Unused. The hex screws have never been tightened. The front 2 have 30mm bases and are very well machined. The back one 28mm. Pictures:

Hi Dave, I got started with hifi back in the 80s with throwing good money after bad ideas and impulse purchases. Don't be too bothered about what others consider Hi-Fi. Brand names and price are not always a reliable metric when it comes to sound quality of audio componentry. It was a leap of faith with getting rid of my commercial gear. At the back of my mind i was hopeful but uncertain if i could really voice individual components to a better standard than what i had. I am thankful for the help from DIY forum members (as it was uphil at times). It has been incredibly rewarding and if i had to do it all over again, i wouldnt change a thing. Since you've got the background, i say go for it! All the best in your journey.

OK i'll bite. Regardless of price of audio gear, i'd do this. If you're comfortable working with a soldering iron... 1. I'd go buy a few connectors from the "bay". 2. Strip some cat6 or cat5 cable (the solid core stuff) and retain the twisted pair orientation. You'll need 2 pairs (for data and power). 3. Have the pair for usb power slightly longer so when you bend the cable it takes a longer arc (and critically, away from the data lines). 3. Install a ferrite bead (not a clamp) on the power lines (at the source) before you solder it. 4. Install a ferrite bead (for usb specific frequencies) on the data lines at the load / DAC input. You might need a cable tie to keep the ferrites in position. 5. Enjoy your bespoke cable, knowing that you put it together yourself. 6. If needed, get some techflex and make it look abit more spiffy. If you've got the tools, this is a $15 job (maybe $20). You wont be as badly bothered by potentially (and likely) noisy usb power and coupled noise. Note: if your gear doesnt need the power lines for connectivity, even better. Leave the power lines out. Hope it helps.

Thats a good way of looking at it. After abit of discovery, trial and error, i found the best solution to be just that. I've built power filtration in to all my supplies Some time back, a friend who shares the hobby brought over a PS Audio Dectet for me to try with my gear (its a DIY setup with remote power). Prior to the test, I was with the "impression" that running an amplifier board with a 70db PSRR rating didnt warrant the purchase of a power conditioner. To my surprise, the difference with the dectet in the system was evident. I cannot currently comment on the difference between a regenerator vs conditioner in my setup, but if theres more to be gained through regeneration (and i could justify the cost of it in my system), i'd consider it.

Dont sweat it. Unless the RCA connector is picking up noise / coupling some signals into the amp, its not a concern. The cardas / telos branded (non rubber) covers for the RCA port can alter the balance of the sound when used at the back of the amp / dac etc. If you're paranoid / dont mind experimenting, you could get a RCA female connector (it has to have a conductive nickel plated housing or it wont work) and seal the back end against the housing (where the cables are supposed to go) with a few layers of aluminium foil. Plug it in and youre done. A DIY cardas / telos "styled" cover for your cable. https://www.canford.co.uk/Images/ItemImages/600C/43-5058_01.jpg

I totally agree. I've been using Rean connectors for a few years now (with different cables) to good effect. Can use your solder of choice too. Got em from here (no affiliation): https://www.x-on.com.au/

I'm running a tweaked TPA3116 Class D amplifier and a passive attenuator (shunt) in front of it. Aside from the speakers and speaker cables, the rest of it is part of a DIY setup.

Just a heads up. 4.3 is out. And its a complete image file.