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Ittaku

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Everything posted by Ittaku

  1. 5.7% to be precise, but when you have enough of a conductor... any conductor, then there is almost zero resistance. Silver also has 3% less skin depth penetration so is ever so slightly more prone to skin effect than copper. Lots of data points, but if you have enough of any conductor it still doesn't matter. A one inch thick bar of steel (which is 1000 times less conductive than silver) has less resistance than a 24 awg silver wire.
  2. We still hear the real world in whatever diminished form it is. Music coming out of hi-fi doesn't sound like the real world which remains our reference. The better the system, the more it will sound like the real world regardless of how good your hearing is. Think when you're walking down the street and you hear a busker playing a violin or something - you instantly know it's real. Walk past most hi-fis playing the same violin and you know it's hi-fi. When people come to the door they ask me who's playing piano or violin or whatever when I have the hi-fi going; they don't ask me what sort of hi-fi I have. That's what I'm trying to recreate, and I can appreciate it sounding more real irrespective of how dodgy my hearing gets.
  3. D-250: (8 matched pairs) 6550 power output, (4) 6550 regulators, (2) 12AT7 regulator driver, (6) 6DJ8/ECC88 small signal, (4) 7144 small signal. D-250MKII/S: (8 matched pairs) 6550 power output, (4) 6550 regulators, (2) 12AT7 regulator driver, (4) 6DJ8/ECC88 small signal, (4) 7044 small signal, (2) 6FQ7 driver
  4. You want this (NuPrime IDA-8): http://www.mcleans.info/shop/productDetails.do?categoryId=1230&productId=261552
  5. Both tubedepot and thetubestore offer matched sets and deliver to Australia. https://www.thetubestore.com/power-tubes/kt88-tube-types https://www.tubedepot.com/products/tung-sol-kt150-power-vacuum-tube I've been leaning more towards tubedepot lately because of the 24 hour burn-in option - not because of the sound quality but because it weeds out early failure tubes in advance.
  6. My personal recommendation would be matched tubes from tubedepot. https://www.tubedepot.com/t/tubes/power-tubes/el34-6ca7 Huge range, they ship reliably to Australia, and they can match as many as you like at an affordable price. I also recommend the "24 hour burn in"; not because of the sound quality but because it rules out early failure tubes which are a pain to deal with.
  7. Replace all the toner cartridges: $487, replace printer: $267... I'm horrified by just how wasteful it is to replace the printer every time the toner runs out because it's more economical. This pricing structure speaks volumes about the business model, but it's killing me.
  8. Great to hear! I was really impressed by the Nuprime amps, especially at their price point. Their top model "evolution one" truly sounds like a reference item and is still a class D amp.
  9. Nations that use English as their second language infamously misuse English terminology either completely or - far more commonly - miss the nuance. If the title and description ends up using these loan words, then unless they have a completely renamed product for the English speaking world, it will propagate. Getting hung up about it is pointless. The question was whether it was a network switch or not and it is, and to them it's a "networking hub".
  10. I'm a Japanese translator... I explained it above.
  11. It's a network switch. They call it a hub to describe that it handles both ethernet and USB.
  12. Here's a little something I captured a few nights ago with my new hobby that was far more rewarding than fighting printers and couriers. I won't be dumping lots of these here though since it's off topic
  13. Fun sagas. Magenta Audio organised TNT to come and pick up the P20 to ship it for me with their corporate account (at my expense) but the driver arrived and refused to take the box because it wasn't on a pallet. So back to square one. I organised my big box shipper to come and pick it up -- Allied Express -- and then got the shipment label to print out and put on the box. Toner ran out... WTF. Of course I need to print off this label before tomorrow morning, and officeworks is closed for stuff like this, but will send you printouts which wouldn't happen in time. I started wondering who I know that I could go and get it printed out at - but of course that's illegal. Out of necessity and lots of googling I discovered I can fool the printer into thinking it has a new toner cartridge. Took about half hour and lots of attempts to make it work but by golly I convinced it into thinking it has a new toner cartridge now. Those things reset WAY too early anyway, so I'm going to start doing this routinely till I visibly see deterioration from now on. For reference, in case anyone else has a Brother printer and has to suffer similar pain: https://inksaver.co.za/blog/how-to-reset-the-toner-life-end-message-on-your-brother-toner-printer/
  14. Oh wow that's news to me. I haven't ordered anything from there any time in the recent past so that's a bummer.
  15. There is a small potential for shielded cables being helpful, but they cost 10x as much unless you have a friend electrician who can make them up for you as the materials themselves are not expensive. These guys make the most affordable Australian made power cord, but even then they still unnecessarily use Oxygen Free Copper. Their cheapest cable is $75, but you can get three cables for $150: http://www.rkcable.com.au/VFMpowercord.htm
  16. If you were to get the chronosonic xvx in, I'd fly to Perth to have a listen... If they'd let us out of our state.
  17. Not offhand, sorry. I think the ET1400 is the only module they've made to date, but I could be mistaken. They sure have a lot more power than horns would need. You're welcome to borrow my NC400 monoblocks, sans lockdown.
  18. I don't know of any NCore 700. There is a lower quality UcD700HG module - this is a subwoofer amplifier and not high end. The NC400 is the best one hobbyists can buy from Hypex. OEM manufacturers have the 500 and 1200 options, but they're not available to us. March Audio's ones are actually based on those. One interesting tidbit is the 400 is best measuring of all the Hypex modules though, if lower power.
  19. There is one form of noise that is removed by isolating the power supplies and housings of monoblocks from each other compared to a dual-mono stereo amplifier. The noise is at levels so low that they rival the Mariana trench and leagues below what human hearing could pick up, but it's there.
  20. No. See, yes, they look flash and expensive. Hear, no. Once you get to the minimum requirements to actually meet specifications, any perceived audio improvement is all power of suggestion. The problem of network related noise comes from the source, and the cable can only faithfully transmit the noise. Cables are - barring a few exceptions - NOT filters.
  21. If you're up for DIY (it's not remotely a hard kit to build), nothing beats building your own pair of NC400 monoblocks (which I have): https://www.diyclassd.com/product/nc400-mono-kit-complete-kit/24 Alternatively the successor to Hypex monoblocks, Purifi, offer a stereo board but not all the necessary ancillaries the way the above does: https://purifi-audio.com/vare/eval1/
  22. Don't forget the Parks Audio Puffin, phono stage completely in digital with a myriad of equalisation curves and the option of pure digital out if you want to use a separate DAC/DAC integrated amp. http://parksaudiollc.com/ The quality of this is decidedly above mid-fi. If you want to capture the digital permanently, you can attach it to an SPDIF to USB converter and record it on your PC. The most affordable option is from miniDSP. https://www.minidsp.com/products/usb-audio-interface/usbstreamer-box So $639USD + $105USD. For a bit over a grand AUD you get an extremely high quality phono stage, multiple equalisation curves, surface noise silencer, digital out, and capture to PC.
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