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Wozza_Lee

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About Wozza_Lee

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    Melbourne
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    Australia

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  1. Just looking at your dimensions, it's about a 60 litre box. Is it ported or sealed? Just getting a driver and plopping it into any old box won't get the results you want. Also 122db is a lot. Maybe you would be better off making sure all of your subs are working well together? Maybe like a minidsp or something similar to get them all playing nicely. What exactly are you looking for?
  2. Sorry haven't got back to this thread in a while. I'm on the Mornington peninsula south Vic. Can make something if you have ideas and dimensions. You would have to pick up though. But of a treck. Pm me if interested Also some nice cabinets there guys!
  3. I have seen that particular chart before, it is measured at 0 degrees. No horn maintains CD. Its physics, and (even if only using the limited human hearing range) simply not possible a 20khz wave is 17mm in diameter so the small end of the horn would have to be of that diameter or less to be CD As I said, even a perfect CD horn (as stated by Dave not possible) will only be CD until 8-9k This is another one of those times in the audio world that the science gets replaced by marketing and opinion
  4. 'all' horns CD or exponential etc beam. A CD will just start to beam later on (for a 1" driver around 8-9k). Either the h812 or 6512 are both well designed, affordable and locally available (both through wagner and loudspeaker kit) My advice, buy both and choose the one you prefer
  5. How about just a simple 2 way splitter on the rca with each one running to each amp?
  6. My father is in the process of making a 2 way with the dayton dt250p and dayton h812 horn. He hasn't finished but on a trial run he said that he was very happy (i was not there) both very cheap and easily accessible in Australia. As Dave said you will want to set your xo to where the directivity od you 12" matches the dispersion of the horn. For r my father that's at roughly 1200 hz with a 12" peerless sls
  7. Also faint buzzing can just be from the amplifier itself. Does it get louder when not playing anything and increasing the volume?
  8. A lot of good info above with a sprinkling of suedoscience. I think we in the diy realm, even here (better than a lot of forums) get caught up in extreme pointy end very small tolerance things that the newby /first time diyer get scared of. I think that we missed the point of the op. As you said a lot of this is subjective and we all have preference. I would reccemend janzen caps from www.speakerbug.com Great performance from a 'cheaper' cap (imo have to spend many times the price to match/exceed performance) He is from qld and a lovely bloke to deal with and will help you out (great for a 1st timer) I used spekerbug to supply components on all 3 of my passive xo's (I'm wedded to active xo now) and have no reservations about recommending them (as a rule I don't like a lot of sellers in the audio industry)
  9. What about the woofer and mid. Very interested in trying some satori drivers. Have recently done a 2 way with vifa ne drivers and like it a lot. Wondering for my next (3 way) if I should go for the vifa ne series or sb satori???
  10. Seen the Ikea bowl idea a few times. Wouldn't mind having a go at it one day. Love the pillar speakers, how did you make those ones?
  11. I'll take it if it's still around Saturday morning, can't get it before then unfortunately. Best of luck
  12. Where are you located, I'm happy to help. Built a few now for people. Normally charge 2x materials
  13. 2.1 yes, sealed box. Also 4x ported for home theatre duty. Can't fault the quality of the drivers in any way. Not a terribly well known brand over here, but well respected in the states. If you're interested im sure a quick google search will get you the info you need. Sorry, thread Jack over
  14. Have built a few subs with PSA driver's. Fantastic build quality and sound second to none. I dare say that this would pants any svs sub out there [emoji2958]
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