tritto

So, I found a couple of master-slave boards online (they’re usually referred to as energy saver power boards) and a couple that indicate they’re switched at about 30-35w of power being consumed by the master device. In order to buy with certainty, I borrowed a home energy audit kit from my local council, which includes a power meter. When the amp is turned on it peaks at around 70w for a moment, then settles in at around 43w. With tv a low volume that’s where it stays. With tv at our regular volume it sits around 48w. I suspect the SmartPC must be switched at around 45w. The turn on peak

There are a few master-slave boards still available online, although they tend to be referred to as energy saver boards. A couple indicate the level of consumption from the master device needed to trigger the slave socket - around 30-35w. The SmartPC doesn't indicate the necessary consumption. I guess the first step is to buy or borrow an energy consumption meter to see exactly the amp is drawing when being lightly driven or when it is on but silent so that I don't just keep buying master-slave boards that have too high a consumption threshold. That could get expensive paying out $20

Hey guys. I've been a member for a long time but I've not visitited the forum since my first registration - I can't even remember why I originally created an account. A couple of days ago I realised my Velodyne CT100 sub was active but producing no sound. I've been testing different configurations (AV amps, settings, cables, etc) and have concluded that the plate amp is the likely culprit (it lights up but no signal seems to be getting to the driver). I'd consider replacing it (after 19 years) but I just finished building a hardwood cabinet with a specifically sized space to house