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About WasM

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  1. Maybe the SVS PC12 or new PC2000? Theres no replacement for displacement, which sounds like what you want but without the imposing look?
  2. Hi aprib - in simplest form it will make sound, but whether it is good enough will depend on you or your friend's definition. They aren't very sensitive so will need a bit of power to get volume but assuming they will be mounted close to the seating location (say within 2m from speaker to ear) it shouldn't need that much power to reach a moderate volume. How they sound at moderate levels will be dependant on the speaker quality and your ears. Best to locate ceiling surrounds (if using Atmos) similar to this. I personally prefer them inline with the ears or slightly behind.
  3. http://www.theabsolutesound.com/articles/2019-editors-choice-awards-subwoofers/
  4. Always happy to make suggestions and give options. I suggest you ask them not to put up the drywall/cornices and maybe some ceiling? and ask for a return of the small funds, or you keep the material and have it not installed. Unless there are fully exposed electrical work it should satisfy occupancy requirements. Regarding getting another builder to do the rework - assuming you aren't doing any structural change would you not consider to undertake the works yourself and hire trades? You'd save on the builder rate and markup, presuming you have the time and patience. It may also depend on local laws, I'm in WA so can't offer any advice on DIY risk and obligations specific to NSW and your council. Food for thought. Regarding the AC/ducting - liaise with the builder or A/C subcontractor about the penetration and fitment for a 'zone box'. When I designed my house I allowed for a 500x500 penetration from upper slab to allow a 'box' to be recessed into the ceiling space. A zone damper feeds the box, which then splits into two x 300 oval R2 duct. Each end terminates into separate long rectangular profile vents in the ceiling. This was for my ~7x4.5m room. You could go smaller for your room. I don't hear anything from my ducted A/C or zone damper. GL with the design.
  5. Javs - as a suggestion about getting your trade(s) in to work with your builder, you'd want to clarify the liability and insurance position. I'm assuming the builder is still fully responsible for insuring the house under construction, thus they will be at risk for allowing you and your trades to work inside during that time. Something to discuss and carefully seek guidance on the terms. I went and got separate insurance to cover my trades whilst they worked in 'tandem' with the builder's trades. Double dipped insurance but just not worth the risk. From memory I forked out around $1800 to cover about $180,000 worth of work... so factor in about 1%.
  6. Does the Nordost disc come with any written material/guide/explanation?
  7. This is not REW but very good for getting into detail https://audiophilestyle.com/ca/ca-academy/ integrating-subwoofers-with-stereo-mains-using-audiolense-r712/
  8. How are you adding delay or group delay to your setup? come to think of it you’d need to give some detail on your setup and configuration. Quite a lot of knobs before you start rew.
  9. Mark should be able to arrange a trial - I suggest you ask to borrow the SVS SB16 if they have one on the floor and take it home for a day or two. Install the SVS app on your phone/tablet and fiddle with some frequencies around 50-65 Hz. The addiction will start from there..... any of the subs in higher price bracket will be much the same, or should sound/feel 'better' with their unique transient response.
  10. Yes - decide on the speakers as that might change some preferences with setup. Just noticed you are in Perth, as a suggestion (no affiliations) maybe head out to Frank Prowse Hifi and audition some subs. I haven't been there lately but a few months back they had SVS and Paradigm. Surround Sounds will very likely have a B&W model or two. Its actually very hard to demo subs as they will sound different in your room. Could ask for a no obligation home trial? If you are after 'double' the wham you'd need more than double the power so you'd be looking at 1kW plus in power. By the time you add headroom and a bit of tweaking you're generally up in the range and size of larger drivers. But I think you are looking in the right ballpark with the aforementioned units. Are you after 'in your chest slam'?
  11. Suggest you have a look at the professional audio range of speakers from reputable brands - EV, Klipsch, JBL, Peavey. PA type systems that are specifically used for live music. If you are looking for Karaoke 'live' music you'd be looking for Yamaha, BMB, JBL.
  12. Paradigm subs would be another to add to the list. I favoured the SVS-16 - couldn't tell much of a difference apart from price tag.
  13. Sealed subs - if you are spending upwards of $5k for a sub you'd want to make sure it integrates well with your main speakers. Strongly suggest units that come with calibration microphone and software. 'Boominess' could be attributed to the room and sub positioning and as such where DSP can assist. What pre/pro are you feeding the sub, or what is your current setup? I take it you are after a single sub to do it all rather than two for Left Sub - Right Sub duties? How much more output are you after?
  14. Several years ago Stereophile produced several Test CDs which were used as sources of reference material, both for recording and playback. What impressed me weren't the discs or recorded material but the supplied leaflet/booklet which gave in-depth info and explanations for the recordings and how they are supposed to sound. I managed to borrow a set off a friend to have a listen back in the mid/late 90s. I'm interested to know if anyone has a copy/copies of the different discs, or use other material with well documented/written explanations. I'm not after anything specific but am interested in broadening my sound scope.
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