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scruffy1

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Everything posted by scruffy1

  1. i'm thinking of whipping up some face masks and a batch of hand sanitiser
  2. that's why i said nirvana are on spotify, not nirvana is on spotify
  3. thanks we might all be audiophiles, but some have larger files
  4. 'scuse iggerance, but what's dtaf ? acronyms are okay if you recognise them, but i'm lost
  5. for the pi fans, this looks a winner https://www.banggood.com/pointsmall/Armor-Aluminum-Alloy-Case-Gold-Protective-Shell-without-Fan-Version-for-Raspberry-Pi-4-Model-B-Only-p-1559054.html?cur_warehouse=CN
  6. i too have arctic silver on all my cpus (and gpus too, where it matters), but there's plenty of recent competitors that can top it current top dog is allegedly thermal grizzly kryonaut (if price is unimportant, i guess) https://www.gamingscan.com/best-thermal-paste/ i have a tube of liquid metal that i have left untouched due to oh&s concerns 😨
  7. already linked to arctic alumina in my earlier post - it's non-conductive
  8. silicon is more an insulator than a conductor of heat thermal tape is the win but the guys above suggesting a metal case are on the money, especially if there is a conductive thermal bond from the case to the cpu my little khadas tone board is in a hefty aluminium case with minimal air flow., but the case itself allows any collected internal heat to dissipate very effectively
  9. would benefit from holes in the side of the case above the board, because convective cooling would pull more air in from the side(s) to passively rise out of the case, than would fit past the "block" provided by the motherboard along the edge as shown by the red arrows plan b would be to macguyver a bigger 'sink over the cpu - what's holding in on ? because a touch of epoxy with arctic silver paste will be more efficient, and as it looks like you have height to spare, simply increasing the height of the fins could almost double your radiant area so, the gold one was recovered from a very old video card, and is 1.5" square by 9/16" high (imperialist measure) - council pickup was my source, but if you really want to go bunta, zalman made awesome and beautiful passive sinks for northbridge coolers on motherboards back in the day, but these guys are seriously tall, although the base of the beautiful pale blue fan is smaller than the gold one cheap and easy sources (slow delivery) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32998838853.html https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32950514537.html copper is more efficient than aluminium; this seems perfect https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000110224085.html but you'll need either thermal tape or an adhesive : https://www.pccasegear.com/products/4712/sekisui-5760-thermal-tape - a wise choice https://www.computeronline.com.au/products.php?C_ID=1&S_ID=259&PROD=43538 - once that's used, it's there for eternity ! hope that helps
  10. that stuff should probably be recognised as carcinogenic these days - it often has asbestos impurity from the mining sources (long story, but google johnson & johnson + talc) you can but "microballoons" from surfboard makers (air filled tiny glass beads), but sawdust is the most sensible and obvious thing to add to glue - balsa dust works fine too - it's a hardwood
  11. i remember auditioning it after the salesman suggested a pioneer sa series (like most of my school mates owned) was not as the best choice at that price point he was absolutely right
  12. i had the luxman L2 as my first amp now i'm all nostalgic
  13. audiovisual glue, of course gorilla glue is relatively cheap, but it expands quite impressively as it goes off, so small amount only required
  14. ha ! when i had my protracted "sabbatical with malignancy" i trained up my microsurgical skills by variously wiring connectors on micro drones to flash their firmware for acrobatics, and in my best effort, substituted a new momentary switch to an otherwise crapped out pixel 5 which i still use soldering is easy (once you can).... but desoldering without the good gear is hideously frustrating
  15. now i'm feeling disappointed that i donated my old luxman L2 to be auctioned for charity, when with my current electronic skills and the knowledge to mine here, i could have re-birthed it to audio maximus ah well, i can still pull out the epicure model 10's if i need a project
  16. baking soda and cyanoacrylate works too but the fumes are vile
  17. having just googled msb dacs, i can see i'm in a much junior league 😲 it probably sounds way better than what i have, but maybe not better if you had a more expensive computer 😜 this is akin to my experiences in overclocking computers; it's an established fact that cpu chips that were sourced from the centre of a wafer are the bee's knees, and that certain batches are far superior to others from the same factory - certain "steppings" are revered by aficionados phases of the moon ? raw ingredients ? luck ? i don't doubt all electronic stuff occasionally produces rare magic beasts, and i suddenly appreciate that building a rig to you people is really the same discipline as matching the parts to build a high end gaming machine
  18. hahahaha you people have it bad.... and that's good 😊
  19. so your cd puts out digital signal to an external dac ? what if the input into the dac was via usb with jitter control (which is not listed), because that's the current state of play, and ttbomk optical and spdif don't address that happy to try and understand why it makes a difference
  20. everyone is playing a game, they just have their favourite toys it's like in model aeronautics when petrol flyers can't appreciate what others see in gliders my preference is to be a really happy cheap arse and broaden my experience; yours might be to tweak a certain combo to perfection s'all good man (to reference breaking bad)
  21. bunnings they will use their uber-tools for $2 per cut
  22. finish cure epoxy https://hobbyking.com/en_us/finish-cure-20-min-epoxy-glue-4-5-oz.html
  23. having only recently started playing with variations on dacs, it has been transparently clear the difference they impart to what you hear all the enthusiasm for various cd players seems to implicitly ignore what makes a good cd player good - and that's the implementation of the dac contained therein, and its circuit so an old dac chip well implemented will do magic for sure, but a newer generation dac chip will blow that away with the right engineering (despite resistance from the unenlightened ) my epiphany came from rolling opamps in a high end sound card, which showed how much a single component affected the results, and then swapping it out for a really basic but new generation stand alone usb dac.. and it was just better - crisper, clearer, wider, and lots of other adjectives that audiophiles spout upgrading a good player by modifying the circuit is the same game, but like a plastic surgeon "modifying" old flesh, it can never quite be the same as young blood
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