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  1. Hi gusangora, Good to see I'm not the only one with a 70" behemoth!! :) That's good hours, I think mine is on a similar hours as well, and yes, I think I started this thread in 2014. Would be good to see who lasts the longest, your replaced OB or my rebuilt OB.
  2. Hi crew, not wanting to bump this thread at all, but just dropped past to say that the sxrd is still performing waaay above expectations, all three panels are still perfect, most impressive is the blue panel, not a hint of loss. I don't actually use it as a tv as such, but it has assumed the roll of just being a computer monitor, being driven by a HTPC equipped with a dual dvb-t tuner card which is made by Terratec and is the Cinergy 2400i, a stunning tuner that delivers a perfect picture even under adverse weather conditions and my less than optimal antenna mast. The keyboard for the computer is a blue tooth connected Lenovo and that takes the place of the remote for the sxrd, which is now only used to turn the panel on and off. With everything running through windows media center, it is IMO, the only way to watch tv and when not watching tv, I can load up Lockheed Martins P3D flight sim and practice my approach and landings at Princess Juliana airport [or any other airport on the planet] in the A380, all on a 70" screen. So, even though it nearly cost me my sanity, I feel that I have now gotten good value out of the sxrd, and will continue to do so for years to come. Hi pc9, yes, not having any hdmi inputs would be a pain, as you need hdmi to be hdcp compliant when using a computer as your tv tuner. Ciao all, back soon Blue Pixels!!
  3. Hey ML, good to see you pop in here and reminisce a little. I guess you no longer quite qualify as a top of the hill flag bearer anymore, perhaps reduced to a 'ledge of despair' somewhere up the slope a little Yes, your experience at first view was exactly the same as my experience at a Sony shop, just jaw dropping wow!!! 'I simply must have!!!!' I'll keep you in mind if I do need something.
  4. Hi Crew, well this was a waltz down memory lane!! I just re-read the entire thread, my blood ran cold recounting the nightmares, then cracked up laughing at ML's comment above "It amazes me Pixels wasn't sent mad by his initial technique of: [dissassemble the TV, adjust, reassemble the TV, observe the alignment]1, [dissassemble the TV, adjust, reassemble the TV, observe the alignment]2, [dissassemble the TV, adjust, reassemble the TV, observe the alignment]3, ..., [dissassemble the TV, adjust, reassemble the TV, observe the alignment]19, [dissassemble the TV, adjust, reassemble the TV, observe the alignment]20." Then with me adding "Waddayamean 'initial' technique - it was my only technique - and you have only listed to 20 times. That would only partly account for initial 'warm-up refinement of procedure' time - add another zero.....at least Anyway, I'm happy to report that the sxrd is doing just fine and has now clocked up a total of just over 24,000 hours. The current lamp has clocked 6071 hours and is still burning bright and that's with power saver off and cooling mode normal. The panel has been prompting me to fit another lamp, but nah, I'll keep running it 'till it's obviously getting low on peak white. I know I can get rid of the prompt by telling it that I have fitted a new lamp, but that would also reset the hours which I want to keep track of. The prompt is only there momentarily at power on anyway, so, no big. There may be other reasons why this lamp is lasting well, but I'll happily delude myself into believing it's because of my added heat sinking on the lamp heat exchanger. I've more than doubled the total hours of the set and there's not a hint of blue falling off the cliff like it did at 10,000 hours, so again, I'll happily delude myself that it's because of my fitting a plain piece of glass in place of the cooked [crushing peak white] plastic in the lamp filter assembly which in turn has helped to stop the uv from killing the blue panel. So, whilst it was painful......who am I kidding......near suicidal!! to achieve this result, it has been immensely rewarding and I feel the set has many more hours/years of amazing viewing in it yet. Out of interest, am I the only sxrd'er left standing on the sxrd hill?? A lone flag bearer
  5. The noose is tightening on this problem! It's a MS service [win 8.1] that's the culprit. I had disabled all services except those needed for wmc, audio, wlan and vol. mute on the keyboard, in an attempt to find out why the pc would lock up occasionally and discovered that not only had the lockups stopped, but so had the luminance jitters on 9hd Will update here as I discover more. btw, the sxrd is still stunning! The hard yards have paid off!!
  6. Yes, I know 24p wasn't supported, that was/is my peeve. I tried a few tricks to force the issue but nope, it would't have a bar of it. We were all stuck with 'US judder' when watching bluray. Your quite right about sub pixel on sub pixel with lcos/sxrd vs side by side with lcd. That helped a lot with fill. Forgot about that detail. Yes, a 27" @ 2560 x 1440 running at native res is about as much as you would want to go. A 27 - 28" @ 4k running native is insane overkill for run-off-the-mill pc computing. I'm running a 28" 4k @ 1920 x 1080 and that combination works out pretty good Text is still amazingly sharp at the non - native resolution, good desktop real estate, sensible icons/taskbar etc. and a silky smooth continuous tone pic...no dots
  7. Hi Owen, concur with all you say, especially the last paragraph. Human vision is a wonderful panoramic experience and being bunched up near a small tv just doesn't cut it. I can totally understand your immersion in 100" Yes, most tv shops have you crawling around/over other equipment trying to get the viewing distance you want, but I make allowances, even if I have to view the set from an angle...then make more/other allowances... A 40 deg. viewing angle feels pretty good to me. Interesting your comment about using the jvc in rear pro mode onto the sxrd screen. I had considered the same thing years ago, pulling the guts out of the sony and stuffing a short throw projector in there. The one thing that always annoyed me about the sony sxrd was it's inability to do a smooth pan @ 24p, at least I couldn't figure out how to force it. So, I'm not particularly in the market for anything atm. Just sitting...watching....waiting...considering.... The Sony sxrd is still a terrific set, working as good as, if not better than new. I've put too much effort into restoring that set to abandon it now. You got rid of yours??!! Traitor!! Fall on your sword!!.......haha...kidding I should refine my earlier statement by saying it's not even about dpi, but inter pixel gap.
  8. Yes, lcos or sxrd @ 1080 front or rear pro is perfect viewing [no screen door] on any size screen at any distance, because of what Owen quite rightly points out, very high fill factor - miniscule inter pixel gap plus the natural softness of a projected image. I have to get down to 250mm viewing distance before I can make out the individual pixels on my rear pro 1080 sxrd. It's what had me mouth watering over the sxrd when I first saw it live, brilliant colour, image and.....no dots! I'm not sure where todays crop of 1080 lcd's is at with regard fill factor, but given that they can cram 4k onto a 27" screen and make the pixels [or more accurately, the inter pixel gap] invisible at any viewing distance, they must surely be getting better at it! But the last time I wandered through a tv store some 6 - 8 months ago to check 1080 panels, it was dots....next set....dots.....next set....dots...bah!! The size/distance I aim for is e.g. 2m @ 70" diag I'm actually at about 2.5m with my current 70" sxrd. An 80" 4k would be perfect and.....no dots!
  9. And that's exactly the point! Well said!! It's not about pic res, it's all about dpi vs viewing distance 27" 1080 lcd @ 80cm = screen door effect Thats why I never bothered with 1080 lcd for a tv = screen door effect. 4k in a pc monitor or lcd tv = continous tone. You cannot see the pixels.
  10. Hi crew, just passing, saw your lights on. The set is running beautifully. Hasn't missed a beat since the hiding I gave it [that nearly killed it!]
  11. Ah, ok, the jig came about very early in the process. After just a few times of OB out - OB in, it was patently clear that I would never get it right by moving the panel by hand with on-screen assessment. I did time myself on a couple of occasions and had the turnaround time down to about 15 mins, roughly 5 mins pull apart, 5 mins adjusting, 5 mins put back together. This trimming of all 'unnecessary fat' happened almost immediately. No brackets, no supports, just one screw holding the ballast and a handful of plugs and the OB was out, then the 3 ribbons plus a couple more screws and the lens assembly was out ready for a tweak. Here's a couple more pics of the focus achieved on the new blue panel as compared to the 'way out of focus' original red. The quality of the pics is pretty poor. Close range in this light was a real test for my cheepy nokia 6720, plus there was light spraying everywhere because of missing OB covers, but it illustrates the point. The pic is of the diagonal test pattern in the lower left corner of the screen. As you can see, red is so far wrong it's starting to break into a pair of tram lines! Over on the right side of the screen, red was pretty good with individual dots making up the diagonal line quite visible. The pic of red also shows drop-outs in the line. This is simply because one trace in the ribbon cable is not making good contact in the connector. This happened to me a few times. Just clean the ribbon and socket with circuit board cleaner [flux remover] and all will be good again. Back with more soon
  12. Hi crew, sorry for my absence [more dead plc's] Yes, focus was also trial and error manual adjustment. Here's a pic of the red panel without the jig - easier to see the frame mount arrangement. If a panel was out of focus a bit, I would test which way it had to go by backing the mounting screws out 1/8 - 1/4 of a turn from tight and seeing if the focus was better or worse. The rubber dust seal is pushing against the panel and this will keep the panel against the screw heads as you loosen them. It was usually only one side that needed a tweak. I would then support the 'solder' join with a small pair of vice grips and then use a small screwdriver to lever the mounting arm higher, or use another pair of small vice grips to squish it down a tad, with the vice grips adjusted so they just pressed only a small amount when fully closed. I would then test this, make sure it was at least the same or getting better and if I needed to go more, then simply adjust the vice grips to close a little more firmly on the mounting points. Levering a mount higher with a small screwdriver was even more 'unscientific' - very hard to judge how much pressure - but if you went too much you could always squash it down again. It was all very 'agricultural'... attacking the OB with vice grips!! But I emphasize again, if the blue test pattern lines are only a little thicker than red or green, then don't worry about it. You might 'just' notice it in computer text, but you certainly won't pick it in a movie. As I mentioned in an earlier post, Sony didn't get the focus right on mine at all! I'm using htpc as a tuner and had to adjust all three of my panels. Focus was ok at extreme right, but got worse to the left. At extreme left it was absolutely hopeless on computer text, barely readable, but movie still looked fine. Yes, that's correct, they can only push down and across. As ML correctly said, if your going to do the adjustment by projecting onto a ceiling [much preferred method], then the jig is redundant as you cannot get to the grub screws unless you pull the OB apart again. If you do that, your half way back to trial and error method. You could get the set back to working again, but to adjust red and green means using the tedious trial and error method, as there's no way of carving up the OB to get to these two panels 'on-the-fly' Waddayamean 'initial' technique - it was my only technique - and you have only listed to 20 times. That would only partly account for initial 'warm-up refinement of procedure' time - add another zero.....at least But seriously, all my pain was largely self inflicted by messing with all 3 panels + the 'new' panels just didn't deliver which really magnified the pain. Though I was destined to have to mess with all three panels anyway to get the focus right, as it's very hard/impossible to do much about adjusting focus with the panel still mounted. Here's a pic of the green panel movement v. on-screen movement - exactly the same. More soon
  13. Here is a pic of which way the image will move on the screen when you move the panel as viewed from the heatsink side of the panel. The panel is shown with a jig I made up, mounted to the frame. Most of the below story only applies if your doing the adjustment by trail and error method as against on-the-fly projecting onto the ceiling. I made the jig out of 1/8" square brass bar, held together at the joins with 1.6mm screws, two more 1.6mm screws that passed through two bars [one each side] to clamped the jig to the panel frame, another longer 1.6mm screw for horizontal adjustment and two 1.6mm x 3mm grub screws for vertical adjustment. Had to find a 0.7mm allen key to adjust the grub screws. The jig, when mounted on the green panel, only just fitted into the OB, which is why I used 3mm long grub screws so their length could be totally contained within the bar. Drilling 1.3mm holes and tapping them to 1.6mm took some patience, but after a couple of holes, I realized an easier way. After drilling the 1.3mm hole, I would leave the bar in the drill press vice [bought a precision vice for this job] and without moving anything, replaced the drill with the tap, removed the belt off the drill press spindle so I could freely rotate it, then brought the tap into gentle contact with the hole and rotated the spindle back and forth to cut the thread. You have to be gentle with a little tap like this. Managed to do all the holes without breaking it. But seriously, leave red and green alone, change only the blue panel. One thing that sucked me into thinking I was on a good path changing all three panels for new ones was that the test pattern looked fine....the end pq however....groan. As you can see, for blue, left and right remain the right way round, top and bottom are flipped i.e. moving the panel down causes the image to go up on the screen. The jig is a good thing, but can introduce other variables, such as: You have convergence looking really good, you take the jig off only to discover that the convergence has moved. This is because when you tightened the jig clamps, the frame flexed a little. When you loosen the jig clamps, the frame flexes back again which moves the panel a tiny amount. You don't seem to be getting anywhere then suddenly it's moved too much, because the jig has been moving instead of the panel. Regardless of whether you use a jig or not, you have the panel mount screws just snug, convergence looks really good, then you tighten the screws only to discover that the convergence has moved waaay off. This can happen because the underside of the screw head is not making flush contact with the panel metal and as you tighten the screw, it drags on one side or the other and drags the panel with it.........@#$#$.........%^&*&* I eventually used little bits of double sided, thin foam tape on the clamp bars to hold the jig from moving and to have some padding so as not to flex the frame. And then: You start to forget whether your putting the set together to check an adjustment, or are pulling it apart to make an adjustment [distraction] and/or if adjusting, which side by how much and in what direction. In my case because I mucked around with all three panels - which color in what direction and by how much..... you know it's time to go to bed!! Another 'gottcha' and something you should check first, is have you got enough free movement in all directions around the mounting screws such that alignment can be achieved. I've had to drill the holes a tad bigger on a few panels I've tried. The standard size is 2.2mm and on some panels I've had to go out to 2.4mm to have enough free movement. All in all, the jig was a great help. When I figured out how to use it right it did give predictable movement and on occasions I could get perfect convergence with it. Eventually though, I would adjust until the lines were starting to overlap a little, then tighten the panel screws and use a small screwdriver to flex the panel a tad either way. Use the diagonal cross pattern to start with, the square crosshatch is too dense with too many lines. I was initially adjusting to the crosshatch, had it looking good only to discover I was actually one whole square out horizontally....d'oh!!
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