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About HomerJ1503560906

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  1. I doubt you need an i7 processor for audio playback. My i3 NUC8 is fine with 7.1 multichannel audio and 4K video simultaneously. I have 8GB Ram but it never hits 2GB usage.
  2. Don’t rob your family of music. Don’t go it alone with headphones. (My daughter was placed in the ‘sweet spot’ at the age of 6 months and loved it. (still listens and loves music 23 years later).
  3. Yea, I’ve already decided on 4 only. I found a pair of 8” (ex demo) that were cheaper and (after reading one of your earlier posts) went for a pair of 6” at a reasonable discount. So under $2k but add another $175 for cable plus there’ll almost definitely need a plasterer (and an electrician). I’ll run cabling for future Top Middles as that’s not really adding anything pricewise.
  4. I’ve quite a few quad conversions now, some of which are excellent. The next Quadio is from The Doobie Brothers, their four albums from the early seventies originally released in quad.
  5. In the last year I’ve moved house. I managed to get a 2nd 5.1 system (smaller) in my living room with a new OLED TV. In my main room (the photo) I’ve bought a new 75” Sony 900F as a temporary screen and budgeted for a 85” OLED (or equivalent) when they hit stores in 2020 or 2021. So that’s the budget blown for next year or two. Especially now I’ve ‘snuck in’ new Focal ceiling speakers into my main room. So the dual AVR solution gets me into Atmos for about $2500 (just the speakers plus cabling contractor on top). I’d love to nab a decent prepro and separate power amps. In hindsight I should have done that a few years back. Cheaper to invest in great power amps and speakers (no upgrades) and just changeout the processor. But now I’m seeing prepros with XLR outputs only so If Id kept my old Mac multichannel amp I had when I bought the B&Ws even that would get left behind as it had RCA only... Anyway, I cant spend too much now, retirement may last another 30 years! Hey Snoop, glad to hear you’re still into MCH music!
  6. I just tried this and it works as desired. Thanks! I tried with only one channel (Left) via analog out to my 2nd AVR and played back a stereo FLAC with right channel out the original AVR. At first I heard nothing out left but after checking wiring I increased volume on the 2nd AVR and manually matched the two speaker levels. Then the first AVRs volume control worked to adjust both speakers ‘normally’. So this will work moving forward. I may initially do what you’ve done and only drive the new 4 Atmos ceiling speakers after I complete their installation, but I’m very tempted to move my five main large full range B&W 800 series to the Arcam (old 2nd amp) soon after. I forgot how heavy the Arcam is, back breaking to move it 😊 Luckily I’ve got space for two AVRs with plenty of ventilation. Thanks again!
  7. Thanks. I think I’ll use the Arcam for my main 5 speakers since a lot of my listening is quad and 5.1 music. Probably only watch an Atmos or 7.1 movie 2 or 3 times a month, although there’s Atmos music only stuff pre-announced but still known quantity (the press release mentioned ‘thousands’ of songs and a renowned engineer has said he’s done hundreds already). I may buy a Denon AVC-8500H in the future but I’m now retired so funds aren’t as freely available as they once were... Edit: I’ll keep my eye out for a 2nd hand power amp though.
  8. I’m about to upgrade to Atmos 7.2.4 by adding a second AVR to my system my current AVR (Denon AVR-7200WA) only has 9 amps but has line level outs for 11 speakers and decodes 7.2.4. My old AVR (Arcam AVR-600) has multichannel line level inputs (it’s a 7.1 amp). Can I use the Denon’s Volume control to control both AVRs output level or do I need to tweak both volume controls? (Which would be painful).
  9. 6 holes for the 6 ceiling speakers. (Although I may only install 4 speakers initially, so only 4 holes required as I’m going to have a 7.1.4 system initially - but run cables for 6 ceiling speakers, future 7.1.6) I’ll get someone in to do any work on the roof and/or external wall cladding (2 storey) to get the cables up into the ceiling space. I’ll install the speakers and connect as that’s the easy part. I ordered the cable yesterday. The speakers will be Focal 300ICW8 which I used downstairs in my living area as the surrounds in a 5.1 system: https://www.focal.com/en/custom-integration/in-wall-in-ceiling-loudspeakers/300-series/in-wall/in-ceiling-speakers/300icw8
  10. Thanks. Looks good. I used 10AWG for my 3 fronts and 12AWG for my current surrounds. Both bigger than needed but I thought ‘what the heck’. Those were run by my electrician when he ran Ethernet all through the house. I won’t use him again though. The job went way over budget and the guys he used were not happy about getting on my two story roof and insisted on running inside by knocking out about 20 holes in gyprock to get cables through studs and noggins. I reckon we were vacuuming up gyprock for months after that! I may use 14AWG for the new ceiling speakers, it may me a bit easier to pull. I’m currently using a Denon AVR-X7200WA which is a 9.1 amp and supports 7.2.4 with an external amp. I’m going to resurrect my previous Arcam AVR600 to move to 7.2.4. Then upgrade to a Denon AVC-8500H equivalent after their HDMI 2.1 model is released to go to 7.2.6. Since I’m pulling out the Arcam I’ll probably let that do the 3 fronts and the current Denon can drive all the surrounds. The Arcam seemed to have a bit more energy in the low end. I’ll experiment to confirm. thanks again for all the replies!
  11. Thank you! You’re right there are batons running on top of the rafters! I never thought of that. That’s why I posted, hoping someone would see something I missed. The speakers have a 260mm cutout so if I mount 6 (2 rows of three) we should be able to feed the cabling between them without making more holes in the ceiling. Now I just need to find best way to feed the cables up from the floor. Maybe run a conduit on the outside of the house? Actually one of the walls (right side in the picture) has Colourbond Kliplock cladding so pop that out and feed the cables up that into ceiling space would work. Thanks again to all for the feed back!
  12. The HT room was added about 7 years ago, before we bought the house. I have some engineers calcs that show the roof rafters (beams) are 190 x 45 at 600mm centres. I think I’m going to have to cut a largish hole in the ceiling gyprock at every rafter (every 600mm) so I can drill holes to pull cables through each rafter, then get a plasterer in to patch all the holes. I’ll talk to a plasterer about it. Maybe I can cut bigger holes every second rafter and use a very long drill bit to drill through two rafters at a time? Less holes in ceiling versus bigger holes to repair? I don’t know which method is more work?
  13. No. It’s a flat roof sloped at 5 degrees. Colourbond is fixed directly to roof beams at top and ceiling gyprock underneath. The beams running at 90 degrees to room length. Room is approx 6500 long x 4000 wide. 75” TV at one long end. Inside the ceiling is sloped 5 degrees (left to right).
  14. I’m looking to add 4 in-ceiling speakers (probably 6 for Atmos and Auro) to allow me to have a 7.2.4 or 7.2.6 system (I’ve already got a 7.2 system). My HT Room is built on top of my garage with 3 external walls and the roof is Colorbond Kliplock with 12 solar panels above. Unfortunately, the roof beams (wooden) run across the room, so I need I’m thinking the only way to run the new speaker cables will be from the inside. Running cables inside the wall (from AVR to ceiling), then Cutting holes in the ceiling at every beam and drilling a hole in each. That’s a lot of holes! and a **** load of replastering. I may be able to run the new cables underneath in the garbage ceiling then up inside the HT room wall near the back of the HT room then run cable back to each speaker on the left of room, keeping all the cable bunched together to minimise holes and repairs, running to each right speaker parallel to the ceiling beams (but probably ceiling noggins to deal with too.) Theres insulation inside all walls and ceiling too, so running the cables will be a nightmare. I can’t see any other way to do this, but hoping someone may have suggestions or other thoughts?
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