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oliverg

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About oliverg

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  1. I can say that David is really a top guy - I wouldn't hesitate to buy anything off him Regards
  2. Have a look in the screens forum on AVS. There are quite a few other ISF certified contributors - as well as some knowledgeable enthusiasts. It is worth reading the various opinions - Joe Kane, whilst certainly a good 'reference' is but one of many experts and your own experience may vary or even manifest/differ widely from some of his points when applied to your own HT environment. Also, always check the date of any articles/sources - HT technology is a fast paced world and observations that may be true in 2004 may not be as accurate when considered in 2008. On the whole, most fundementals will stay the same but the advent of any 'pretty amazing new stuff' can really alter the playing field.. overnight!
  3. You wont be able to use component for 1080p Unless you have a HTPC using RGBHV(VGA) analog wont pass HDCP .. you need a fully HDCP enabled video chain for 1080p Even then, ICT is soon to be come a reality and that 'loophole' will die. These days, its best to buy only HDCP enabled equipment and stay digital from source to display and whatever is in between - even VPs (video processors) disable their analog outputs if they detect a HDCP enabled source. Almost forgot: Some video cards will disable 1080p if both displays are active (even over digital!)
  4. My sincerest condolances to his family. I hope he's woken up in heaven, where he can go to a permanent CEDIA.. where he can pick whatever he wants, set it up how he wants in whatever heavenly cinema he wants. All the best
  5. Screens are very much an area where preferences are important. Some people are happy projecting on a cream wall .. Personally, I couldn't think of anything more awful to look at except Magda naked. I don't like most grey screens, the exception being the Firehawk/Greyhawks. Really, it depends a lot on your ambient light conditions and what projector you use. I would never use a grey screen with a CRT... I would never use a high gain angular reflective in a non lighting controlled room. Audition a screen in your own home, with your own projector and conditions and you will find that is the best way to approach the screen question. It is also fair to say that unless you've tried a number of options, don't state that 'my way is best and only way' when you haven't even tried any alternatives. Oztheatre IMHO makes a good point about most grey screens and being a dealer, it would be safe to assume that he has seen a substantial number of setups - both good and bad and can make authorative comments without needing to have an ultierior motive.
  6. My instincts say try another display (desktop monitor?) first - if it doesn't work, try swapping the cables. Also, make sure the correct display is selected - check your video card driver - there is usually an "identify monitor" selection - if the display is greyed out .. it may be an EDID issue. You could try forcing the driver to select a similar display. ood luck
  7. IMHO I would think along these lines ... Some people start with 4:3 .. Most with 16:9. People that have 4:3 screens seem to move to 16:9 Most people that have been into this hobby for quite some time seem to consistently evolve into cinemascope screens. The people that go cinemascope are always extremely happy with that choice - I know of no-one that has gone backwards. Skip the 4:3 and 16:9 steps and go straight to cinemascope. Watching 1.85/1.78:1 on a 2.40:1 screen is not as much of a compromise as watching 16:9 on a 4:3 or 2:35/2:40 on a 16:9 screen. Just my thoughts
  8. If its the one I'm thinking of, its average quality. Some of those eBay sellers are very clever with their wording. They sell junky 4:3 screens but claim "16:9 capable"... its a bit like saying a 16:9 screen is 'scope capable. There are quite a few people selling 4:3 junky screens and making them out to be "HD certified" (by whom?) I bought some from Dream for $20-50 - 92" matte white 1.1 gain and they were really not bad. Ended up giving some away. There are some good screen sellers on eBay, but there is also some really dodgy ones too.
  9. A while back, I remember reading about someone mixing their own paint to emulate Goo - IIRC, the guy at the paint store said Goo wasn't that special and can be copied fairly easily by anyone who is "in the paint know". Using various ratios of flat white, pearlescent etc the poster managed to knock together something that had all the positives of Goo and cost 1/4 as much. I'd be very interested in knowing the formula of Goo.. I wonder if anyone has worked out a way of reverse engineering it I must admit, after seeing a Goo (white) based screen, I was impressed at the gain, colour uniformity and colour accuracy. The friend used a CRT projector but had absolutely no idea how to calculate the throw length .. so he set the projecotr up on the floor to work out roughly where it was going to be mounted. Then he just mounted the PJ upside down .. because the whole wall was painted, it didn't matter where the picture landed. He's even got his own CIA 4 way masking system happening.. the masking system cost him less than $400 to make.
  10. If you get a chance, drop into a Sony Central close to you and check out the VPL-VW60. Its an excellent performer for the price. A good quality screen will really help out PQ wise... as well as lighting controlled conditions. What's your budget?
  11. It depends entirely on what technology is being used .. ie, retro reflective or angular reflective. Unless the HT is set up correctly for the screen type, results can be less than stellar. An angular reflective screen (EG Vutec's Silverstar) .. the light from the PJ needs to be bounce off the screen (like a pool table ball) and land where the eyeballs are. A retro relfective (EG Dalite's HP) .. the projector needs to be behind you as the light bounces straight back. Implemented correctly, these screens can offer spectacular results. I bought a 150" Dalite HP 'scope screen a month ago and got some Vutec SS samples. Using a Sony VPL-VW200 I'm getting much higher FLs than I was with a unity gain Stewart. (130 Ultramatte). Blacks suffer slightly as well as CR but IMHO well worth the trade off. I can get the SS from a friend in the US if anyone wants one. I am probably going to sell the Dalite and go with the SS eventually - even though the Dalite is great, the SS material seems to have less hotspotting.
  12. Thanks everyone - both PJs are sold. Congratulations to the new owners (for privacy reasons I can't disclose their idents)
  13. Gino, I've just sent you an email - I couldn't wait any longer. I'm blown away by just how much interest there has been Romulus has been sold. Remus is still up for sale. I have someone who says he is interested but so far no deposit. Make me an offer or $5000 AUD secures the sale. That's $4500 US - I'm making a significant loss on it. It cost me 5k US + 2k shipping + 500 GST - I still have all the paperwork. If anyone wants to import one - that's about as cheap as it will get - over 3k US off
  14. The owner of that business actually started posting on CurtPalme quite some time ago. (he didn't sound like an idiot and was quite open to critisism) Personally, I think the degree of overkill is quite astonishing - effects speakers don't need to be so high end, nor driven by those Mcintoshes. With 6 million, there would be lots of different ways that fellow forum members would design and implement their ultimate HT... and still have 5 1/2 million in change
  15. I do smell Blownpixel... or DaveLR from the US has migrated? For me to prefer a 720p projector over a 1080p projector, the 1080p projector would have to be .. a Benq or an Epson (joking) Seriously thought - it would have to be a flawed 1080p, 1st generation of a poor brand. One of the $1500 Dim Sums on eBay. When I look at the PQ of the VW200/60 (or even the VW50) vs any "high end" 720p projector the difference is pronounced. The answer (of course) is CRT hehe
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