Vatoe1503560767

Out of interest was your audio connection via optical, as I had not tried this? I used HDMI and had no issues with sound.

Not sure what info you are after so I give you a summarised opinion (I have a beyonwiz, Topfiled etc): It supports streaming of the network etc - I have successfully streamed (wireless) video recording of my NAS (ReadyNAS NV+). I also tested on my ethernet LAN and all files including 1080p played flawlessly. It plays all codecs I have thrown at it, including a 1080p mkv file - which I obviously copied to the hard drive first (an 880.8 GB WD eco drive) when I was using in the wireless mode.. I haven't tested ISO or WMV files, but I know that ISO's don't play at the moment. Apparently a future firmware upgrade is meant to fix. The unit is dead quite - no fans at all. The only thing I could hear at times was the hard drive spinning. The unit looks quite pleasing with its fake aluminium front and blue LED's. It has a relatively small footprint. It is very light without the HDD. There is a funny bug (at the moment) where after turning of the unit the hard drive keeps spinning! The latest firmware apparently fixes this issue, but as stated before I cant get the unit to upgrade the firmware. I have sent an email to support to see if I can get this issue resolved. The current firmware version on the unit I got is 1.1 and the latest is 1.8. The menu structure is easy to deal with, pleasant looking (all in blue) - a bit like the PS3 crossbar. The remote is not as responsive as I would like (slight delay) but is well buttoned giving access to all the important functions. It does have SRT etc subtitle support. It also has bittorrent support (not tested yet) and some other 'internet' features. The DTV gives a good picture and will record to the HDD - you can even schedule of the EPG. Connection options galore including HDMI. All the cables come in the box - including HDMI! Sorry, not sure what you mean here? Haven't used a TIVO or seen its menu but from I have read they are very user friendly. I originally bought the unit for my brothers upcoming 40th, but I like the unit so much that I going to by one for myself to use in our main bedroom. The only thing holding me back the moment is the HDD issue - dont want the slight whrrr while I am trying to sleep. If I can the new firmware installed then all will be well. I'll pull the trigger on my own unit.

I bought one of these for my brothers 40th with a HDD. I have installed the HDD etc, but noticed that it doesn't spin down after you turn it off. So I went looking on the Compro web site and noticed that have a new firmware that adresses this issue, but I cant get the firmware to install - keeps stating its the wrong one (its not). Have you tried a firmware upgrade by a chance?

I have an original release 360 as well, and it is now beginning to show signs of failure I thnk. It intermittently (read infrequently) shows the dreaded red lights. But I always manage to get it started (when it does happen) by turning it on off a few times (approx 3). I haven't read all this this thread, but are these symptoms consistent with a unit eventually failing?

Just guessing, but it might be the amp not picking up the surround sound flag from the games audio? If you have your amp is in an Auto switch setting, try to select 5.1 surround manually and see if you get sound this way.

As of the 19.12.07 they did - $68.85 to be precise. Edit: I notice that the OP'str grabbed on the 14th for same as well.

I bought this game last week and I can say without reservation it's the best FPS I have played. To get it from Big W for less than $70 bucks represents the best value game I have ever bought. I have just started playing the Xbox Live version of multiplayer and its is great - which I expected as I tried the multiplayer beta a while ago. If you like shooters, this definitely is a game to get.

Actually, IIRC, it depends whether or not the name you have chosen for your offline profile, hasn't already been taken by someone else in Xbox Live. If it has, you will need t select another alias.

I got mine as well. I found that I had varying issues with lag. Most of the time it was great, but when it was bad, it was pretty crap. I managed to get a few 'promotions' in the few hours I played it, and I am currently only a few points away from my next. Those Sgt stripes are coming :-P I want to know 'bugeye' is, as kicked my ass Probably some yank on DSL2 connection - it makes feel better to think this way :-)

I think what was throwing me was the fact you previously indicated that you got "No sound from the Wizzie through the TV to the AV receiver". What I coudn't understand why it was you needed it this way, when you had the Wizzy connected to the amp and therefore didn't need the sound via the TV output. But if you are using your amp to amplify all sound then it would make sense to have connection from the TV to your amp (for switching purposes) - but to amplify the TV's audio, not the wizzy's (or is it wizzer's ) as that has a direct link to the amp via the optical link and therfore would not require the via TV route.

But why do you need the audio from the TV to the amp, if the sound can be produced from the Wizzy straight to the amp via the digital connection?

I'm not sure why you would want another cable connected? The HDMI from the wizzy to the TV powers your TV speakers for the occasions when you don't want amplified sound. The digital from the Wizzy to the amp would do your Dolby sound when required. Why have the connection between the TV and your amp to get sound from the wizzy?

Still happen to have mine handy; 50cm (w) x 44cm (H) x 14cm (D)

Hmmm, you are going to have to explain how you have connected each device.

Yes it does, that's why you're hearing it through your TV Speakers. It does send an analogue signal as well, but this isn't why you're hearing it through the TV speakers, its the HDMI connection sending audio as well. You can, but you shouldn't have to do it this way. Yes, this is the way I have mine setup. I have both HDMI and optical connections in use, via the TV and amp. I suspect that you haven't correctly configured your amp is some manner. Most amps should allow you to indicate (through a setup menu) what type of audio you will be using for a given input. That is, digital or analogue - some amps will auto switch. You should check this first. Then check if you have a digital/analogue switch on your amp. Select digital if you have. Then check that you have the surround format in the 'auto' setting so it can detect the type of audio it is receiving via its digital connection. Some people have had trouble with thier amps on this point, so may want to also try manual selecting Dolby digital.

You can also attach a USB drive to your computer and share this. The BW will see this as well - the only disadvantage of this is that you need your PC on as well..

I noticed this as well. The Sony flashes up 1080p (when using 'Auto in HDMI'), but when you look at the wizzy's front panel (VFD), some of the broadcasts/recordings were showning as 576 - in another words not matching. I need to experiment a little more with to understand what is going on. I cant say I noticed that much difference in picture quality between the two - again I will have to look at this more closely as well.

I have used the EDID (red) button on the Wizzy and the TV managed to tell (correctly) the Wizzy all the resolutions and frequencies it supports, so I will give AUTO a go on the HDMI setting and see what happens . I did have to 'tweak' some of the settings on the Bravia X for this input, but I think I have got myself a great little combo.

You would be right about not telling the difference at the higher resolution as your TV would only display an image at its maximum resolution of 768 horizontal lines. And yes you would notice the difference between an interlaced (i) picture over a progressive scan (p) picture as they drawn differently on your screen. cheers,

I have been away for most of this week, man things move quickly sometimes. I notice the references to the new Wizzy forum up and running. Nice. I notice while I was away my HDMI cable arrived, so I quickly plugged it into my sony x series TV (1080p panel) and WOW what a difference that made. Whilst it is difficult to explain what has changed as I think it is a result of a 'sum of all parts' scenario, I definately noticed that colours are more vivid, and the the picture appears to be a whole lot clearer. I wouldn't have believed that there would have been such an appreciable difference (from component) using the different connection types, but there certainly is one. Maybe it has something to do with the straight through diigital connection and therefore less processing? Anybody have any idea what the AUTO setting is on HDMI setup is meant to reflect? Is it the Wizzy detecting what resolution is supported then choosing the appropriate one?

Excellent, I'm glad I could help.

The security settings you mention are different to each other. That is, WPA2-PSK is different from WPA-PSK. I'm not sure off the top of my head whether or not the Wizzy supports WPA2 (need to check settings), but if it doesn't select WPA-PSK and do the same on your router. Once they are the same (including your password/phrase) you shouldn't have any problems. If the wizzy does have WPA2, and you have matched this setting on your router without any luck, try dropping both devices down to WPA-PSK. I have no personal knowledge (and cant seem to find the manual on line) of your particular router, but some other settings I mentioned a few posts back to someone else may also be of assistance if the suggestions in the previous paragraph alone do not work.

Agreed, any form of wireless security is better than none at all. You wouldn't believe the number of neighbours up and down my street that have nil security setup on the their AP's. I guess it comes down to buying a new wireless router (which has security off by default), getting it home, plugging it in and it 'working' straight out of the box.

Glad to be of assistance. I am a bit supprised that the WEP suggestion didn't work. Must be something I can't see - maybe because you were trying to use the shared key with WEP? Or you using ASCII when the Wizzy uses Hex? The Wizzy shouldn't have allowed entering of a PSK when using WEP. Anyway, I am glad you have got the WPA mode up and running - far easier for any future wireless devices that you need to connect. In relation to ICE, I had similar problems (via ethernet cabling) when first trying to connect and then it began to work without making any (further) changes. I think the problem results from the time difference of setting up your account and the time that it is actually accessible by the wizzy. You'll find that if you have followed their setup instructions (on thier web site) and then wait an hour or so, you should be able to complete the setup process on the Wizzy. I don't believe its has anything to do with your wirless settings (because you have it working) based on my experience with ethernet. [edit] I just re read what you said re ICE, if you have set the account previously the 'delay' propistion wouldn't apply. I would check your PIMP etc settings on the ICE side of things as you have wireless working.

I agree with sanitarium in that, assuming you have other wireless devices and they support the standard, you could use WPA-PSK. It will make your networking much easier as you just need to remember a password/phrase (being the PSK = pre shared key) for your security, rather ASCII/HEX numbers. WPA is also meant to be a more robust wireless security option. If you are confident enough to make changes and your other wireless devices support it (WPA-PSK) which will also need to be changed you can attempt the following. Looking at the manual for your router, in the home page of your router settings the below mentioned could be used. I would suggest if you are going to try these, please record all your previous settings before you make any changes so you can go back to them later if needs be. WCN = Off (Windows connect now technology - not really applicable in these circumstances) Wireless radio = on Wireless Qos = Off SSID = You can change this to a name you want/like. This is what is broadcasted as the name of your router. The default usually is the router model number or manufacturer name. Channel = Auto select Super G model = disable (if you don't have supporting super g cards in other computer/s) Authentication = WPA-PSK PSK Key (passphrase) = whatever password/phrase you want I will assume that DHCP has been enabled and therefore you will not be required to make any other changes from what I can see. Once (and if) these changes are made, you duplicate these settings in the Wizzy (mainly WPA-PSK and passphrase). Do an AP (access point) scan, tthe SSID (the name you gave the router in the above settings) will appear, network type will be infrastructure, authentication type will be WPA-PSK and you will enter your passphrase (WPAPSK Key). [Edit] I also forgot to mention, in your current router settings, it appears that your authentication should be 'shared key' rather than 'open'. On the Wizzy the settings should be Network type = Infrastructure, Authentication type = shared, Encryption type = WEP, Default WEP key =1 (this must be the same position you currently have your WEP key in the router settings page - that is Key 1. So you may want to try this first before making any significant changes.