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Posts posted by AdrianW1503559681

  1. I'll answer what I can...(I have the 880 but the basic operations are exactly the same).

    Volume: I have two activities for TV watching ("Watch" TV" & "Amplifier TV") - the first one is for watching with the sound from the TV speakers, the second is with the amplifier & surround speakers. When using the 1st activity the volume up/down buttons control the TV's volume, with the 2nd activity the volume up/down buttons control the amplifier volume. By default I have the TV set to "mute", but when using the TVs speakers I added a mute command to the start up sequence and another mute command to the end sequence - you don't want your TV speakers & your surround speakers on at the same time (hopefully your TV won't show a mute icon on the screen).

    By default my DVD player's "display" button appears on the LCD, so yes - you just find it in that list and press the corresponding button. You can always assign this to a regular hard button (if there's one that's not being used for anything much during the DVD activity).

    There actually is a "prev" button on the 520 - by default your LG's "prev" should be mapped to this button, if not you can always change it.

  2. ...and used War of the Worlds (new one) for the HDMI/Component comparison.

    I have heard that the new War of the Worlds has a very grainy picture with muted colours and a washed out image (director's stylistic choice) - so maybe that wasn't the best choice for doing your comparisons.

  3. Can anyone who has a 880 or 520 comment on how the software/hardware works to emulate an xbox DVD remote control? There just don't seem to be enough hard buttons on the 520 to replace all the functions of the standard buttons on the xbox (or for that matter, even a standard dvd) remote.

    I don't know for sure - but there is a special version of the 520 (I've seen them in EB's) for the xbox 360.

    But, apart from that, all the Harmony's (including theb 520 & 880) can perform all the functions you need. If a specific hard button is not available, the command (by default) will appear on the LCD display. There are page fwd & page back buttons near the LCD to scroll through all the less used commands.

  4. When the kids want to watch a movie on the projector they pick up the 5200 and press one button (On), this lowers the screen, powers up the projector, turns on the processor and DVD player and sets everything on the correct inputs and sets the correct volume. The kids then put the remote back and only touch it again to press the 'Off' button.

    The Harmony remote can do exactly the same thing, so what's your point? Well, I guess they'd have to press "Watch DVD" rather than "On". Anyway, I'm pretty sure "Watch DVD" is more intuative than "On" when you have multiple devices.

  5. ...the Logitech/Harmony 520 looks like the one I'll buy. I had a look at the Marantz 5400 today and it really didn't impress for > $1,000.00. If the 520 proves less than ideal, I've only done about $130.00.

    I think you've made an excellent choice, and I'd be shocked if the Harmony can't do everything you want. You will need to invest a little time in to setting up just right, but once it's done the Harmony's are excellent.

  6. For settings - I use the ones phreek came up with in this post (the low brightness ones).

    These are for one of the previous 42" Fuji's but I'm pretty sure the panel is the still the same.

    Some people do suggest getting it professionally calibrated (but not during the run in period). personally I couldn't justify the cost of this service, and the results I get with the phreek's settings are excellent. Also, anytime you get new/updgraded equipment you need to get it calibrated again - too expensive for me.

    100 - 200 hours for run-in is recommended, personally I wouldn't watch any 4:3 for at least the first 200 hours (I made a list of all the 1.78:1 DVDs I had, and we watched mainly those at first).

    Many people suggest using the new upscaling DVD players connected via HDMI, but I find that the Fuji's image processing gives an excellent image with my basic Pioneer 676A (via component). I'm going to wait for reasonably priced blu-ray/HD-DVD players before buying something that will upscale my current DVDs.

  7. To me, the question "should I get a HD box or save money and get a SD box?" is the same question as, and forever linked to, the question "should I get a HD display or save money and get a SD display?"

    To buy a HD display and not get a HD box is to waste money buying the HD display when a SD would do the job.

    Do you really think a 480 line display does the job? As others have said, an SD display doesn't even qualify as SD - it is 96 lines less than SD. The only thing an SD display is good for is viewing NTSC - eg R1 DVDs.

  8. Consider how much TV you actually watch now at the time of transmission. Do you record a lot and watch it later?

    For the amount of TV I watch live, an HD box without a recorder is a waste of money (and an HD box with a recorder is still just too damn expensive).

    I settled for an SD box, and may get an HD PVR if they ever come down to a sensible price (and work flawlessly).

    I find I now just BT most shows I want to watch - sure the quaility isn't great, but it's a lot better than VHS.

  9. ...

    Peter Blasina who I respect, also said that Digital Sound is broadcast in

    Surround. WRONG, only if the networks transmit the program in HD and only if

    the original content is in in 5.1. ALL SD is in AC-3 Stereo which is fantastic....

    I thought most SD was transmitted in Dolby surround-encoded stereo (ie prologic) - is that wrong?

  10. Btw, the 676a has shite PQ, but since you watch DivX/XviD files, I'm going to assume PQ is not an issue for you.

    I watch DivX/XviD files for TV shows - as there's no decent HD recorders yet and SD recorders are overpriced for what they offer (the DivX/XviD files I've seen are close to SD quality & much better than VHS, they also don't have the ads, and don't have the crappy Australian TV station scheduling).

    I find the PQ of the 676A for regular DVDs to be more than acceptable, I'm not about to pay the crazy prices some people pay for a Denon player. And of all the reviews/posts about the various upscaling players, the improvement in PQ for the price doesn't seem worth it. I'll be happy to wait for a reasonably priced Blu-ray/HD-DVD player that will also upscale my collection of DVDs.

  11. I have the 676A (previous model to the 686A) - two of the features that do come in very handy:

    1. DivX and XViD playback, I watch nearly all of my TV shows using this.
    2. 5-disc memory - it remembers the position of the last 5 discs that were stopped mid-play, possibly not much use for movies, but if you have TV shows on DVDs with multiple episodes per disc, it's nice to be able to re-insert the disc and automatically start from where you finished on a previous day.

  12. I have the 880 and a Fujitsu - I don't think this task is easy to accomplish, as the Fuji doesn't seem to have discrete codes for the picture memories. You'd have to store multiple key sequences to perform the action, like: menu, cursor down multiple times, enter, cursor up multiple times (to ensure the picture menu selection is at the top) followed by cursor down the correct number of times (eg twice to get to memory 3) then enter, and menu a couple of times to close the menu.

    You need to add a similar sequence to the end of each activity relating to the device you want (eg. Play DVD, Watch STB, etc).

    If the Fuji had discrete codes for accessing the picture memory, the setup process would be heaps easier.


    Possibly easier alternative...

    Pressing the "Picture memory" (PM) button on the fuji remote cycles through the picture memories - BUT, I think it always starts on the last one selected. So, you're never sure how many presses are required.

    You could setup each activity to do the following - ensure that the panel currently has PM 1 selected, setup the harmony so on entry to an activity, you send PM the correct number of times to move from position 1 to the required position, and then when exiting the activity, you send the required number of PMs to return back to position 1.

    You could setup your most frequently used device as PM#1, so this particular activity wouldn't need to perform any PMs.

    I do something basically similar to mute/unmute the plasma's speakers for certain activities.

  13. I haven't had an image retention problem with my Fujitsu (assuming this means logos and the like) - but as we have watched a fair bit of 4:3, I have noticied that the areas outside the 4:3 frame are now slightly lighter than within the frame - I can only really see this when viewing very bright 16:9 material. For the next week or two there will be no 4:3 viewing going on in our house.

    I do have the settings dialed down and we use the "fine" picture mode, and we only watched 16:9 (1.78:1) material during the first 200 hours.

  14. ... although the functionality of the remote is tremendous (we all love it) , the build quality is shite judging by the number of replacements that they send out.

    I think the build quality is excellent - BUT, the design/shape of the remote just doesn't work well with the base station.

    I've contacted them about my replacement base station not connecting properly - they've also asked me to phone them, but the times they give are not very convenient.

  15. You really need a home internet connection - do you have any neigbours that will let you use theirs for an hour or two?

    Once you have the remote setup the way you like it you won't need the net connection, but during your initial days/weeks you'll probably want to fine-tune the setup on a day-by-day basis.

    Perhaps you should look at some cheap internet plans.

  16. Video Hits on ten show most of their widescreen videos "postage stamped" - black bars at the left & right and top & bottom, just shear laziness on their part.

    Someone at Rage is doing a good job, transmitting each video in the proper aspect and showing the entire clip beginning to end.

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