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Bails1503559549

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Everything posted by Bails1503559549

  1. Hi. If this unit is still available, could you let me know what colour it is? Thanks.
  2. I recently purchased one from www.stuff-uk.net. They arranged the courier to Australia and it all went well. I don't know if they have any left, and if you want one at all you'll have to move quickly. Bear in mind that the UK is really your only option for purchasing one - it is the correct voltage, region B for blu-ray, and can fairly easily (via a remote hack) be made region-free for dvd. And with the exchange rate so favourable at the moment, it doesn't break the bank. By the way, I tried very hard to find a new one locally but had no luck at all - I believe they are long gone.
  3. Thanks for the reply. I've decided ordering one from overseas is too risky. I guess I'll wait and see if a second-hand one comes up locally.
  4. Thanks for that - I thought it was a long shot. I have seen that they're still available in the UK. Does anyone know if the UK model would work in Australia? It's the same blu ray zone, though the dvd region would be different. Would it be possible to flash a UK unit with the Australian firmware to make it region free?
  5. Well, I'm nothing if not behind the times - I don't suppose anyone knows of a shop that has left over stock of this player, or is aware of one going second hand? I'm guessing that if there was one or two floating around they'd probably be quite cheap now.
  6. Hi. I'm considering taking the plunge on this set. The picture looks pretty good in the stores - for what that's worth - and it's the right size for me. My biggest concern is the relative lack of calibration settings, most notably there's no option for adjusting the backlight. Does anyone have any experience of this TV? I'd appreciate any comments or views.
  7. I paid $1970 for the KDL-32D3100 at Bing Lee. That was about a month ago. I thought it was a pretty good price.
  8. It has nothing to do with the video processing. It is simply a function of the stb that Sony uses in its TVs. The overseas models are faster because they use a different tuner. I have a KDL32D3000 and I do find the delay changing channels to be pretty annoying. It conceivably could be fixed with a firmware update, but I'm not holding my breath. It's a pretty good TV anyway - I'm happy with it.
  9. Yep, it's a re-badged Korean-made tv. Just like Schaub Lorenz. Absolutely nothing German about it, except for its name: and that's just some clever marketing but the Australian distributor!
  10. Just as an aside, you might be able to do better than that on price. I picked one up at Bing Lee in Canberra for $1970 last weekend.
  11. This would certainly appear to be a Samsung 37" LCD TV: http://www.samsclub.com/shopping/navigate....amp;item=334074 And I'm pretty certain I've seen other 37" models here in Seoul.
  12. I'm pretty sure Samsung does make 37" panels, possibly in one of its factories in China. They're just not available as Samsung-branded products in Australia.
  13. Although the television standard in Korea is NTSC, rather than PAL, and it is actually very difficult to buy a tv in Korea that will even accept a PAL signal.
  14. Sounds like it then, particularly if it has backlight problems. The only other option from Korea that I'm aware of (and I live in Korea) is LG-Philips, but I haven't heard of such problems with LG panels. The only other big manufacturer is Sharp, based in Japan. On a different note, does anyone know if a 3Schaub Lorenz 37" MKII is coming? I'm looking at buying a 37" lcd in the next few months - when I return to Australia - but would like it to accept 1080p signals.
  15. For me, it really is a question of scaling and deinterlacing rather than resolution. I have an outboard video processor and am looking to feed my display a 1080p signal. The scaling/deinterlacing solutions on the vast majority of lcd TVs (well, almost all TVs for that matter) are pretty crap. And it is noticable. I don't want to send my TV a really good 1080p signal (or 1080i if it won't accept 1080p, as many won't) and have it stuff the picture with crappy scaling to 768p. The same applies for new HD formats - I would much rather a 1080i/1080p input from a HD/Bluray player displayed without the substandard scaling of the TV introducting artifacts. To me, the difference in quality is very clear. These days, I would insist on a 1080p panel regardless of the size. Otherwise, I know that I would be less than satisfied and back in the store in two years time when only 1080p panels are available. But that might just be me!
  16. The salesperson was probably trying to tell you that a 768 display will not accept a 1080p signal from a HD player. This is correct (I know because my 768 display will not accept a 1080p upscaled signal from my Lumagen processor). Therefore, if you want the most future-proof display that will get the most out of the HD players then a display that accepts 1080p is the way to go - but note that most 1080 displays still won't accept 1080p either, only 1080i. But the difference in picture quality may not be great, depending on the size of the display, and 768 may be what you're looking for. Personally, I'm looking for a display that will accept 1080p, have a built in digital tuner and multisystem analogue tuner, and look really cool. Haven't found one yet.
  17. An stb with a memory card reader is a great idea. Perfect for displaying photos. From memory my old Teac HD box had a photo show feature, but you had to use the usb port which was located at the rear of the box - not very convenient!
  18. The topic pretty much says it all. Which HD cards will work seamlessly in a Mac (if any)? I currently have a Nebula card in my PC but I gather it won't work in a Mac. Thanks.
  19. Do a search of these forums for 'DGTEC' or 'footy'. Problems with your box are to be expected and will not be resolved.
  20. I bought a digital audio delay device (www.felston.com) and it does the trick - fixed my dvd delay as well. A little expensive though...
  21. The null modem cable definitely works, so why not just use that? The cables you mention cost $5.50 and $8.80 each, so if you really want to try the laplink why not just buy both? I doubt it will break the bank.
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