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Juzbear

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About Juzbear

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  1. What sort of arm is that? It certainly looks nice.
  2. Thanks Andy for the info. These are just the sort of issues that I was looking to find out about. It is one thing to think something is possible, and another to put it into action! I am still intrigued about the possibility, though I fear the complications may send me back towards more established solutions! Justin
  3. The Mober kit is certainly tried and tested, and I have certainly looked into it. It is more in the spirit of “would this work, and if not why not?”. I was thinking of using an old linn pulley and swapping it onto the rega motor.
  4. In the course of my exploring LP12 speed controller options, I have read about 24v motors used on LP12 with the Number 9 speed controller. Upon reading about the Rega neo controller, it occurred to me to wonder whether this would be an option to drive one of these motors on an LP12- the Neo has the ability to adjust speed at the controller (with an allen key), along with 33 and 45 speeds, and I have also read about tuning the phase of the motor to the controller to minimise motor noise. It also has the advantage of not being the size of a rack mount component. I would imagine you would have to cannibalise an old linn motor for the pulley to use on the rega motor, but that sounds do-able, at least in theory. Has anyone else done this? Or perhaps more pertinently, is there any reason why this shouldn't work? The price of the Neo is compellingly un-Linn-like. Cheers Justin
  5. In my experience, you will see differences in amps at low levels, though I am not sure of the degree that the M6si will be different to your M3i- I would suggest dragging it in to the shop and having a shootout on their speakers. It has an inbuilt DAC too, though it seems relatively basic compared to the M6 DAC. That said, I have voted with my money and have a Nu-Vista 600 amp, which just killed the other amps I listened too, and am using a much cheaper Cambridge CXN V2 without external DAC (the next up in the Cambridge line, the 851N, had minimal SQ difference to my ears), so I guess that means I prioritise amp over DAC for overall SQ. cheers Justin
  6. Whilst squeaky clean vinyl is very nice, until you have lots of records, the manual methods like record revirginiser and mont marte glue are more than enough, I reckon. Keep buying more records and then when you get over doing them one by one, revisit this thread! The amount of money people are prepared to pay to pay relatively few records amazes me sometimes.
  7. I have the CXN and find it tends towards warm rather than bright or too “hifi”- I definitely wouldn’t describe it as fatiguing. The more expensive 851N was just a touch more “liquid” sounding, but I found the difference very subtle, and not worth the price differential. You can connect a HDD, and use the Cambridge connect app to navigate it, which is pretty good, though not a polished as ROON or some other interfaces. You may find you are limited as to how you play stuff you have uploaded to iTunes. I found I could not play them other than through iTunes, which needs a Mac/Apple thing somewhere in the chain.
  8. I have wondered the same thing. The need for more power cords is a disincentive, but if the sound quality improves...
  9. I spent most of my record listening career using milty duo pads with a variety of spray on fluids, with the addition of carbon fibre brushes. This seemed fine at the time, and poorer sounding records were just accepted, and if they were too terrible, I looked for a better copy. Recently I put together an ultrasound cleaner as specified further up the thread, and it has bee fantastic. It doesn’t make much difference to good records, but particularly second hand records can be dramatically inproved. I am listening to a copy of Bridge over troubled water which has a water damaged cover, which I recently cleaned. Prior to cleaning it was unlistenably crackly, as the record had been wet too, and now it only has an occasional soft crackle audible at high volume. There is a bit of reading to get the cleaning right- the thread has quite a few pages, but it is very worthwhile, especially if you are aiming to minimise the dollar spend.
  10. I have found that the record migration issue in my case was when the records touched the right end of the bath (with the motor side to the back). Friction fit alone did not work for me, so I stuck two small silicon buttons under the left end of the steel frame to contact the top of the bath more forcefully. Record migration is no longer an issue for me, assuming I run the motor clockwise (which seems to be its least favourite direction!)
  11. It would be a hassle getting your custom Perspex dust cover on and off before and after a listening session...
  12. After realising my original copy had a non negotiable warp, I just had to grab a copy of the newly remastered copy of this. Great record, though shrink wrap makes it hard to photograph nicely!
  13. Thank you. That is good to know. My venerable motor has a quiet but definite whooshing noise, audible when I place my ear next to the plinth. I have read about all manner of wokka’ing, ticking, and the like on other forums, but it seems to me that no noise is good noise.
  14. I would be interested to know if your new motor is quieter than your old motor? I do not have any issue with slow start up with my Valhalla, but the option of 45 is good. I have had it so long that I have avoided 45s, so the need is theoretical, but it would be good to have the option. I suspect you will find the Kore to be a significant upgrade- I did it and a cirkus bearing, and found the whole sound to tighten up. Well worth it, and made the set up easier.
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