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stereo_lurker

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    Melbourne
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  1. FS. Krell Power Amps and Speakers

    Holy hell. All neat in that tower. Active ventilation?
  2. 12V trigger power board

    Anecdotal but just personal experience with certain brands. I've gone through a number of Jackson branded remote control mains adapterd in different settings (RF based toggle). 4 of 7 eventually failed within a few months on high draw devices, but seemed ok on lesser appliances. Set up my mum and sister with the remotes so they wouldn't have to run up and downstairs to control their old central vacuums in 3 story townhouse. May have been a bad batch but don't seem to be for sale anymore. *Never checked the spec ratings either so possibly be user error.
  3. 12V trigger power board

    I don't trust the simple Master/Slave power strip solutions that are available at Officeworks and Jaycar to handle the high current of 2 amps at load. Also, the threshold for sensing and triggering from the Master seems to be hit and miss (variable).
  4. 12V trigger power board

    Similar question has been asked before in 2014 but the products are all unavailable now (Belkin FP40/FP60, Monster HDP1750G). The PS Audio stuff is more than I'm looking to spend for this function. I need my AVR to trigger 2 separate amplifiers with its 12V out. One of these amps has a trigger in, the other doesn't. Would this Thor Greenboard B12R do the trick? https://www.thortechnologies.com.au/product/b12r-green-board/?v=796834e7a283 It has some extra filtration/protection features. https://www.thortechnologies.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/Thor_Green_Board_USB_wiring.pdf?v=796834e7a283 This installation diagram shows that it allows "CONTROL OF SHUT DOWN WITH EXTERNAL POWER (5V DC)" via a USB cable. Will 12V work? Is there a 3.5mm to USB cable that is wired correctly for this or must it be DIY? Regards, Zac
  5. I guess I posted in the wrong section! Thanks for alerting me to our common question. The following is from a layman's understanding and would benefit from interjection/correction by someone with electrical background. The concern with system damage is if there is current "bleed" from one power amp to another. Also, insufficient resistance for amplifier in "off" mode could lead to shorting or high background heat generation. Should be infinite resistance in "off". Wear and tear of components could lead to a rare but catastrophic failure with inappropriate crosstalk either background, or during a switch process. Some smoke/burning related failure events with the OSD ATM-7 Amazon reviews. I do love the idea of speaker AND amp switching in the one robust device though for some fun AB compares. Unfortunately Dr K's Beresford suggestion (thanks) might only be rated for 250W/ch (peak) and I need greater headroom.
  6. 2 Amps into 1 speaker pair

    My quandary: - a HT path: AVR > Elektra power amp > 5.1 - a stereo path: Accuphase integrated > 2.0 - Front speakers (Monitor Audio floorstanders - PLII-300) I would like to share between the 2 paths I would prefer to spare my Accuphase (Class A) from the daily rigors of TV and youtube nursery rhymes and keep the use hours low after break-in, especially in our hot Australian summers. My use is about 85% HT/TV/casual listening and 15% focused stereo listening. I narrowed down to the following: 1.) Niles DPS1: Rated 350W/ch handling. No remote. Tiny pin connectors are cumbersome but a one-time nuisance. Good reviews for reliability. Seems to follow safe "break, then make" connection rule and simple, unpowered mechanical switch hopefully means low fault probability. 2.) OSD ATM-7: Rated 400W/ch. Switch for 2-in/6-out. IR remote. Banana plugs. Consumes power. Some reviews report smoking failed unit after ~6 months. Doesnt ship outside US. 3.) Wharfedale WPR26: Rated 3000W (total?) MKI and 1000W MKII. Switchable 2-in/6-out. IR remote. Bananas. Consumes 15W. Hard to acquire (ebay, variable condition) Similar costs $150-200USD +shipping. Leaning strongly towards the Niles. Given the setting reliability is paramount and I get the vibe it is robust. Also ships from Amazon to Australia directly. Most of my ideas come from old forum threads (2007-2013). Any considerations or more recent solutions I've neglected? Regards, Zac
  7. TAD CE-1 & Accuphase A70 or P7300

    Good read, thanks. I'm surprised the manufacturers don't make it explicit since a lot of customers wanting to dip their toe in Class A would be more reassured to know there's more headroom in a separate class. I've also heard it stated on forums about Accuphase. See this post on a Accuphase A47 Class A 45W power amp thread.
  8. TAD CE-1 & Accuphase A70 or P7300

    Cafad, is there anywhere this is documented either officially or unofficially for Luxman or Accuphase? I've possibly heard this from some sales staff also, but may have been confused with information overload.
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