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Lightstream

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About Lightstream

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    50+ Post Club

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  • Location
    Palmwoods, QLD
  • Country
    Australia
  • First Name
    Christopher

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  1. Ahh ... I sold them, the Merlins too. I needed repairs done to a couple of drivers and I decided that since I didn't want keep them anyway, I will just sell them on to someone who will do what needs to be done with them. I have since bought a pair of almost mint B&W 610i's for $30 and they make an excellent spare bit of kit. Main speakers are still the wonderful 1968 Sansui SP300's and they take a mighty lot of beating by many new designs in important ways of communication, speed with detail, and despite the horn mids and tweeters they are also still smoother than the metal dome twee
  2. Here is the circuit diagram, the only FET is in the power supply as a ripple filter, no other buffering. This pre-amp still runs as quiet as the day I put it together, the Psvane 12AU7-Ts as well; they've had several years of use now, 2 1/4 yrs in this pre-amp and another 3 or so in my TRI TRV-88SE integrated amp. It hasn't been a constant thrashing, as such, but no doubt a good couple of thousand hours + all up. I may consider upgrading a few parts yet, possibly the power supply caps for Nichicon KG Gold Tune versions, or similar (they have been stunning in my restored 1977 Perreaux SP
  3. Urgently required: a square 14.5mm black plastic pushbutton for a NAD 3020b amplifier. It's all I need to complete a job/project and if anyone has a spare one out there, it would be greatly appreciated! Happy to cover the small cost of postage etc. It would be really nice to get this one out the door and back to it's owner complete. Many thanks in advance! PS. I have found that the NAD 1020 Preamp has the same square buttons ...as MAYBE does the 7020 receiver.
  4. I've just double checked it against some other resistors nearby, it's definitely a red band, not orange. So 4k7 it was, dead as a Dodo now. Thanks for spotting it though, the photo makes look more orange than it actually it. Awaiting a reply from Naim ...... it could be a while.
  5. A few photos of the damaged CD5 board. first pic is the power supply for the analogue stage - I'm assuming, as I have no circuit info other than the fact that this is where the external power supply comes in from the Flatcap 2 - the 4k7 resistor on the LHS that feeds one of the transistors bottom left is open circuit even while looking fine. A couple of the other above it have damaged ends yet measure perfectly. Burned resistors are obvious in the next pics, and the power supply diodes, or what's left of them. With pic four, the overheated 4.7 ohm resistor below the RH side of the chip
  6. Thank you for all that, stereo coffee, I don't know the full "Ant" situation, as it was done a few years ago in the previous owner's possession. Last night I found at least one more resistor that looked fine on the surface and was completely open circuit. Heaven knows how much more damage might have been done to regulators and op-amps and if there is, the board may just need to be replaced altogether and be much better for it. I will write to Naim and see what they can suggest for me. I will also post a pic or two here.
  7. Very much required is any circuit information for a Naim CD5 player (not the later models, except for maybe the CD5i). Some years ago the player got infested with ants and they created a mess that was cleaned up and then later the unit was switched on, blowing two power supply diodes, damaging the board underneath and burning four resistors throughout the board. The rest of it looks fine, the main PS caps are fine and I'm hoping for the very best that the op-amps are fine too. However, four resistors are burnt enough that I can only just make out the markings, though if I've got the val
  8. Hi all, might there be anyone out there with a couple (or a set) of NAD square black selector knobs (the little square ones) for a NAD 3020B amplifier. Happy to get them posted up here to the Sunshine Coast. Many thanks if someone can help out. There are a couple on UK eBay for $27(!) for ONE, then they want $127 for shipping, go figure for something that weighs just grams.
  9. As far as I'm aware, there is no MOSFET buffering at all, the RH board at the front is all power supply and the phono stage at the rear. I have no problem powering any amp in my stable, loads of output ... but looking over my pics again, I see no FETs anywhere .... unless I am very much mistaken. Main power amp in the system is a modded DIGI 125 amp, with all POOGE-style mods Litz wiring for the PS throughout. Runs beautifully. Great transparency and speed. Alive. I will be sticking with the Psvane 12AU7-T2's when I place the valves, just so transparent from top to bottom. I may consider a se
  10. It appears he's gone to ground somewhere, but may yet pop up! I did hear that he wasn't well. Still, someone here must surely have had some dealings with this amp and pre-amp, they were quite famous in their day, there MUST be a proper circuit diagram somewhere, surely.
  11. Hi everyone, the title says it really, I have picked up an Eidetic GB-1b power amp that is undergoing some much needed work to bring it back to top working order again and trying to find a circuit diagram or find the designer has not been successful so far. The LC of the amp has some 500mV of DC on the output and will hum after some 10-15 minutes of running, RC also has around 350mV of DC but doesn't hum .. well not after 15 minutes anyway. It came with no user manual and had been 'fiddled' with. LED hanging out the front of it, another power switch put in that is too small for the cutout and
  12. *** AN UPDATE to the performance of the phono stage is written by me several postings below here: ie, further on in this particular post, not in a separate one. Hi all, I just wanted to share my latest project, something I've been saving for and wanting to build for some 18 months. It's an Elekit TU 8500 valve preamp, direct from Japan, complete with all assembly instructions in Japanese! Fortunately, the instruction sheets are so beautifully put together from beginning to end, as well as the fact that I've been building kits on and off for decades, that I had no issues with the b
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