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Lightstream

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About Lightstream

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  • Location
    Palmwoods, QLD
  • Country
    Australia
  • First Name
    Christopher

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  1. Hi everyone, I've picked up a pair of Tannoy Venus II speakers recently with both bass/mid drivers replaced at some stage earlier in their life. One of the 8" drivers is completely free and sounds great, the other buzzes, yet the driver coil does not touch the insides of the magnet, while seeming stiff and restricted, almost as if it can't move freely enough backwards into the magnet. When pulled from the cabinet and laid on it's face, there is plenty of free movement. The other driver is perfect. However, the replacement bass mid cones, while being genuine Tannoy 8 ohm units look quite different from the originals, having much larger dust caps and the corners of the basket do not reach into the cutout of the originals. They also state on the sticker that they are 40W drivers, yet the power handling of the overall speakers are rated at 10-100W. Regardless, they still sound amazingly good ... except for the buzz from one driver. Question now is, do I get the buzzing driver looked at, or find a genuine pair of Venus or Jupiter bass/mid drivers (200mm or 8")? I really do like these speakers, replaying Eva Cassidy's remarkable voice with clarity, focus and without a bright edge, yet projected into space beautifully. Cabinets are very nicely built too, solid and lovely walnut veneer, so I want to keep them, they are the perfect size for my set-up. Does anyone have a set of these original drivers on a shelf, or have some extra information that could help me out here, please? Many thanks! PS My pic is on the top (single speaker), bottom image is from the Net of original units. Quite a difference really. I'd love a set of original drivers if possible.
  2. Yes, that was mine, actually Went to a woman in deep SE QLD.
  3. Now that I know there are Richter fans here and those who have worked with these speakers, I now have TWO sets of early Richter speakers that require new drivers or driver repairs. Firstly, is a pair of early Merlins that has a damaged 116mm bass driver - not seized - in one cabinet. The whole cone will need replacing, both driver sets measure 6.2 ohms. Cabinets are 320mm x 190mm x 210mm and beautifully dead to the rap on the sides. Very impressive! Secondly, I have picked up a pair of early Oracles that will need both bass/mid drivers replacing, or at least the cones and coils. One is seized solid and the other has a badly damaged cone. It never fails to amaze me the lack of respect some people have for hifi gear. One driver I could put down to a nasty accident, the other, seized solid? Hmm. Anyway, there are quite a lot of folks with these speakers out there and I'd really love to get both of these speaker pairs running to perfection again. Does anyone have spare drivers for these units, OR any advice from those Richter folks in the know? I did send Richter photos of the Merlins (the ID has worn off the serial number patches on both sets) and they said they could do nothing for me because they didn't recognise them. Funny, many other folks on-line knew exactly what they were, as they own or have owned them personally. I will have to have another go with Richter. The Oracles also turn out to be earlier models: sized 484mm x 212 x 298mm with 140mm bass/mid cones to the outside of the foam. The cabinets are I think Jarrah, really rather nice, solid too. It would be really great if someone can help me out here. I live in Palmwoods on the Sunshine Coast and will likely need to ship drivers to Sydney if there is no good repair shop closer to home. Pictures show the little Merlins first. Thanks everyone.
  4. Certainly, just go straight to LPgear and you will find the upgrade stylus for this fine cartridge. https://www.lpgear.com/product/PICKSXV151200E.html There is also a cheaper standard stylus available. The upgraded version is around $80US, which is likely a bargain for a fine vivid line contact stylus. The stock replacement - and I find LPgear's standard replacements are very good, often better than the original - at less than half that price. Shipping is near the $20-$26 mark. Shipping I find is very good too. Excellent service. There is little information re the stock stylus though, in this case. I'd go the upgrade line contact, but that's just me
  5. I picked up a lovely little pair of the Celestial Hadleigh speakers recently and both tweeters need replacing. I suppose I can get them re-coiled, therefore keeping the original cones, OR maybe someone out there has a spare set of tweeters from a similar set of Hadleighs that they can part with. I am going to restore the cabinets to remove some scratches and it would be great to get these speakers back in great shape again. Maybe there is an alternative tweeter, but too small a cone diameter would be unlikely to match the larger bass/mid drivers. I've included a couple of pics here. Thank you to anyone who can help out here! BTW, the total diameter of the actual cone to the edge of the roll surround is 7cm. I did post this in the speaker section and although I've had one comment (thank you), no one has come up with any solution yet. So, if anyone can help with parts, that would be terrific. Maybe I do need to get the coils rewound. Is there anyone who would do a great job in SE Queensland?
  6. I picked up a lovely little pair of the Celestial Hadleigh speakers recently and both tweeters need replacing. I suppose I can get them re-coiled, therefore keeping the original cones, OR maybe someone out there has a spare set of tweeters from a similar set of Hadleighs that they can part with. I am going to restore the cabinets to remove some scratches and it would be great to get these speakers back in great shape again. Maybe there is an alternative tweeter, but too small a cone diameter would be unlikely to match the larger bass/mid drivers. I've included a couple of pics here. Thank you to anyone who can help out here! BTW, the total diameter of the actual cone to the edge of the roll surround is 7cm.
  7. Thank you, I had a look there but no circuit diagrams available. I'm probably just going to switch on and stand back ... so far, I've had no smoke with all other restorations/repairs.
  8. I've posted this once before some time ago, but I would still like to find a circuit diagram for this particular kit amp if anyone can first identify it and then maybe someone might have a circuit diagram? I've just rebuilt the two regulated power supplies - one of the 2N3055 transistors had died (preamp). I've hopefully got then two regulators wired up correctly now (I had a mishap and lost the pics I took and then promptly forgot to draw ALL of the wiring instead of just one of the colour coded wires! A rarity for me), the output from the emitters now supply the power to the preamp board and the output terminals. I cannot identify what the transistor is between the RCA output transistors on each board without pulling the whole flaming thing apart again, so a circuit would be very handy! Also replaced all of the failing small value caps on the preamp board. You can barely see the PS heatsinks in these pics, they are where the wires exit the back of the amp. Another forum member suggested maybe this is a J.L Hood design, but this one is NOT Class A, for which he was far more known. I've Googled and cannot find! So far. If anyone can help out there it would be much appreciated.
  9. Sure thing. I do that with all gear, turntables, amps and tuners I'm a photographer from way back and I just can't help myself. I should probably start a new post for that one. During a general restoration, I don't go as far as completely re-painting the rear panel though, that's beyond my skill base and besides, I like to have some of it's original patina of age, far too hard to screen print the decals and socket designations A good clean though is definitely on! Circuit boards are cleaned, new caps installed, any new transistors, diodes and dodgy looking resistors are up for renewal. Power supply diodes will be replaced with modern UF soft recovery types, as well as a few of the others on the boards. Initially, I will only replace the driver trannies on the right channel, the left is fine, but I will see how the sound balance is with both up and running. The protection circuitry will probably be completely renovated, as it was this in the Akai that failed and switched off the amplifier. Once replaced, all was well. The same process will be for the Marantz Model 1030, a sweet little amp, that after a good clean (It was twenty years in a farm shed, as was the Luxman!) has survived remarkably well and does actually run. I'm impressed at how well it still looks underneath the boards after 45 years!
  10. Yes indeedy! The main power supply caps are in excellent condition, so I won't change them out just yet, though may bypass them with some quality ex Russian military 0.1uF PIO caps I have here. Every other cap will be swapped out for Nichicon FG stock and WIMA models for the smaller values. This is what I did in the restoration of an Akai AM2600 integrated that turned out a treat, the new owner is very happy with it! It retained it's punchy and communicative analogue character, while gaining a lot of transparency and focus. The phono stage turned out really well, perfect for the two turntables currently connected to it. The Luxman SQ507X also has two phono stages, both MM, one of them being adjustable for input impedance. I'm about to start the strip down this afternoon.
  11. Hi there, good to hear about your sonic impressions. I have just acquired an older SQ507X 50W integrated amp that, even though it is of the 1970's old school of solid build quality, it sounds remarkably clean ... on one channel. I have two new sets of the driver transistors on the way, NEC 2SC1161/2SA653. The right channel 2SC1161 is rather burnt looking. I shall do a full re-capping while I'm at it. Love the looks and switch gear of this 45 year old amp and also that it has Pre-Out and Main In sockets. It's not quite the classy and shiny look of your gorgeous 550/590 models, but I'm happy to have it in house all the same. It came with a good old Marantz Model 1030 at the same time
  12. Item: Complete disc tray and laser for said Technics SL-P550 CD player Price Range: Reasonable! Item Condition: New or Used, either is acceptable, as long as the tray is smooth in and out (NO broken teeth!) and the laser is good. Extra Info: I know most folks would just toss this player in the bin, but it otherwise works fine (complete with remote control) and has a Coaxial output, which is what I require. For some reason this player has all the guts but no actual tray. Happy to buy a complete player at a reasonable cost, they are 33 years old now! I also have a Technics SL-P170 CD player in otherwise good condition which also needs a complete tray/laser mechanism ... although I could get away with just the tray, as a few of the teeth are broken and not allowing the complete in/out action. Laser is fine. A credit to Technics engineering that these players last this long ... other than a few plastic teeth. I'd prefer the SL-P550 over the cheaper model, digital out and even it's own DACs are still good. 'Scuse the dust on the front of the player, pics taken when it was not cleaned up. Cheers if anyone can help me out.
  13. Yes there are, they all came with my original posting under valve gear ... I think I can post them again here if you like, no problem. I took my time building the kit, around 8-10 hours, though some have done it in half that time. I didn't want to do that, taking great care to not only check that all components were with the kit, but since my instructions were in Japanese (fortunately I've built more than enough kits to understand the process and the quality of the instruction sheets is truly excellent!), I double checked everything as I populated the boards and then again afterwards before firing up the preamp and checking voltages as per the instructions - all were spot on. A really good soldering job was essential for me - I'd saved long and hard for this kit and already pre-bought the upgrade components some months previously in anticipation - and although I'd run out of WBT silver solder, I did use some quality fine solder and everything went perfectly. I have heard of other kit builders who have not been so careful with their soldering and had issues come up later on. I also took the time to trim and sand back all of the board links, as they all come in one sheet that needs separating into the various sections. A fine file was all that it took to get a good finish and I reckon it looks tidier and more professional ... even if it's hidden under the case I know! The preamp started up perfectly and has run absolutely silently ever since. None of my previous valve gear has ever been this quiet, a great credit to the designer. Pictures show the stock Chinese valves and for the first day I had a ball with them, if I had to I could happily live with them. The Psvane 12AU7-T's however are another story, in a word, brilliant! Last job that I haven't got to yet is a cable tie for the cables from the transformer.
  14. From Japan, yes, but not from Elekit, another eBay seller who gave good service and the kit arrived weeks ahead of the suggested time of arrival.
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