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mikes875

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About mikes875

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  1. mikes875

    Satori 2018

    Glad to hear it is working out well for you. 2.8k is probably a good crossover point anyway so shouldn’t be too much of an issue. Am thinking about my next build and think I will go with the MW19 and either the MR13 or MR16. Either will be fine I think. Look forward to how you progress. I am afraid my current build has been in the “test” phase for a while now. Motivation on the finishing drops off once the listening begins...
  2. mikes875

    Satori 2018

    How is the testing going, interested to hear how the MR16P is going. What upper frequency are you crossing at? Did you consider the MR13P? If so any comments on your decision to go for the larger mid instead?
  3. I just recently purchased the XR model and tried the SR at the same time. Very little difference, I was worried the bass might be overdone in the XR, but it is not at all, IMO the XR is a better choice
  4. mikes875

    DIY Speaker cable using RG/213

    Assume this cable would be a good choice for internal speaker connections? Has anyone tried it? I.e between the drivers and the binding posts (via crossover if passive)
  5. I had a similar issue with the remote on my Vincent preamp. I think leaking batteries corroded the battery terminals. Replaced the battery holder with one from jaycar for about $2. Fitted perfectly and works as good as new. Vincent make great sounding amps. Introduce a little bit of tube sound without compromising on power output. Thoroughly recommended.
  6. mikes875

    Upside down speakers?

    I have the Dynaudio Contour S 1.4 LE have the tweeter below the woofer and are an excellent speaker. Always wondered why they were designed that way
  7. Not really yet, still working on the base and wedges that tilt the top forward, intention is to match the plan eventually...
  8. mikes875

    2- way speaker build advice

    Check out Zaph Audio's site for info on the build along with a lot of other useful info such as driver testing etc.http://www.zaphaudio.com/ZA5/
  9. Thanks Ittaku and Dave for your advice. I have been playing with the crossover point between the 32w and 22w tonight. Moving it up from 140 to 220 Hz has made a huge improvement. Was not letting the 32w out of first gear before I think. It has really opened up the bass allowing it to cover a wider range. It is so easy to try different options the only issue being there are so many variables and after many hours of frequency sweeps I end up so confused and get to the point of Analysis Paralysis. I.e from Wikipedia... the state of over-analyzing (or over-thinking) a situation so that a decision or action is never taken, in effect paralyzing the outcome. Waiting for my NCore 8 channel amp to arrive before tweeking the crossover any more I think, as that will undoubtedly change everything anyway...
  10. Interesting idea, will give it a try, the 32W can easily go much higher than the 140 where it is currently cutoff. When I try running each driver on its own for the bulk of music other than those with deep base, it is doing very little, the 22W is doing the bulk of the work, and really underpins the rest of the drivers
  11. Sorry I didn’t mean that I was overlapping them, just that each one is more than capable of playing in the frequency band of the other so I could try moving the crossover points. Compared to a 2 way where the crossover point is normally starting to get to the end of the useable range of both drivers so you don’t have much choice
  12. Perhaps this weekend... I have been working on temporarily sealing between each section and tuning the ports. They both have similar response & impedance curves now so one must have been leaking before. I made up an external port extension which I intend on progressively shortening and testing to find the optimum length and then adding to the inside. I have some walnut veneer I thought I might use for the 3 sections with black paint in each wedge between and also the base/port. Enjoying listening to them too much to pull them apart again to do the next major step just yet...
  13. mikes875

    Big Speaker Build

    Hi Craig i am in the process of building something similar. I went active with all Scanspeak drivers and am very happy. It is so much easier to setup and tweak the crossover. Only downside really being the need for a 8 channel power amp. The drivers I used are as follows, they worked really well together. Upper Bass - ScanSpeak 22W/8851T-00 8"Revelator Woofer Midrange - ScanSpeak 12MU/8731T-00, 4" Illuminator Midrange Tweeter - ScanSpeak D2908/7140 Beryllium Dome Revelator Tweeter Midrange – Another 12MU/8731T-00 wired in Parallel with the one above (MTM) Lower Bass - ScanSpeak 32W/4878T Revelator 13" Subwoofer I have a thread in the DIY Audio Projects sub forum if you want to take a look. Other drivers that are available locally are the Satori range, which have a very good reputation and the specs look very good. Can’t go wrong with Scanspeak though IMO. Mike
  14. Thanks Mike. Tried testing the 32w subs tonight. Meter is working fine but the curves are quite different between the two speakers and the peaks are very flat, especially on one. Doing some research it seems this could be caused by leakage. I just have the 3 sections balanced on top of each other so very likely. Will need to fix that before I can do too much more on the tuning front. Might take the drivers out of the boxes tomorrow and make sure they read similar on their own to rule out driver differences
  15. Update on my impedance tester. I have the process working now, the chart below is on a little computer speaker that I used for testing. 500 point test took about 5 mins, next to test the sub installed in the cabinet, perhaps tomorrow...
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