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About twofires

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  1. That's a really fair price - I paid almost double for mine a few years back. If I didn't have money tied up in other projects I'd buy it just for the sake of having a silver one. GLwtS. Hopefully someone jumps on it.
  2. Just a thought, but if we're all fairly convinced this is a scam, it might be worth having an admin remove the "shop now" link on the post.
  3. Hey @Grimmie, I was just scrolling through this thread and noticed your comments re: gear troubles. I thought I might add my 2 cents. There are two things that can happen to a new bike in the box that can often get missed after the bike is assembled; 1) Sometimes the gear cable inners can get kinked in the box, typically right where they exit the shifter. This tends to happen because the handlebars are detached in the box, but the cables are not (to speed reassembly). A kinked cable inner means that, even when everything is correctly reassembled, seated, and adjusted, the inners do not travel easily inside the cable outer (cable drag). This reveals itself in shifting to the smaller cogs - the cable doesn't release completely in one go, and so you temporarily find yourself between cogs. The solution is to replace the cable inner. 2) Your rear derailleur attaches to your bike via a small piece of aluminium called the derailleur hanger. This is your derailleur's frame of reference. If it is straight relative to the cassette, when your shifter pulls or releases a specific amount of cable per click, the derailleur moves the jockey wheels exactly the distance between one cog and the next. But hangers often get bent in transit. If bent, it means your derailleur is not in line with the cogs of your cassette, and no amount of cable adjustment will get your shifting consistent. The solution here is to get a mechanic to tweak it with an alignment tool. I can't guarantee either of these things is the culprit here, but if the issue persists they're worth investigation.
  4. For anyone looking at these, they're a solid product. Reliable, well designed, rugged, and will suit people who don't like jamming things all the way into their ear. Just don't let a cat near them - they're not chew-proof, sadly.
  5. What I always liked about Art was his unwavering support for people liking what they like - I've always thought that speaks to a person's capacity for empathy. In a hobby full of people sure of what is proper and correct, Art seemed to find those notions quaint. I'll miss that.
  6. These would be my vote, right up until the little one is tall enough to reach the tweeters. The Dyns sound great, but they're fragile (as every second Dyn classified can attest - the owner of these has done well). The one advantage of your EPOS vs kids is the metal tweeter cover. Monitor Audio's might be a good bet for that reason. There's new that is just within budget https://www.melbournehifi.com.au/products/monitor-audio-bronze-5?variant=6995450626099&currency=AUD&utm_campaign=gs-2020-03-13&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gclid=Cj0KCQjwj7v0BRDOARIsAGh37iryIS1MuyThpkhsDovCd2CE00A76NweYmAkbpQ2DVDOM1sbyWpTllwaAnGGEALw_wcB But you might find someone with Silvers willing to part with them for similar money.
  7. I'll have to check this out. I quite enjoyed his 'Ravedeath, 1972' album when I was making my way through Pitchfork's 200 Best Albums of the 2010s.
  8. The temptation is real... Unfortunately, 1600 is also the number of kilometres I'd need to drive to collect them. Sigh. They look great. GLwtS!
  9. I'm reviving a pretty old thread here (and one that might need to move to the movie section), but I just saw the new DC popcorn flick Birds of Prey, and Ewan McGregor's bad guy had a suitably showy setup. It seemed to be a McIntosh MC275 and maybe something like a pair of Avantgarde Acoustic Duo Mezzo? Not sure - you only see it side on. Keep an eye out for it if you happen to see the film.
  10. This is really interesting to me, as I have that exact amp and have been contemplating various Dyns (Contour 20s, Special 40s) to pair with it (after saving the $$$). Based on what you're saying, I might be barking up the wrong tree. Might have to budget an amp as well, if I go that route, although I suspect that I too would miss the Marantz.
  11. I have the previous series Q700's. I used to run them with a Marantz SR6010 receiver (around 90-100wpc into 8ohms, probably not a lot more into 4ohms) and found this was okay, but it could get a bit rough in the upper midrange and a bit loose in the bass at volume. I upgraded to a Rotel RA-1592 (200wpc at 8, likely approaching 400wpc at 4ohms based on past models but no firm specs available) and found that the midrange cleaned up a fair bit, and the bass tightened up a lot. Nowadays my ears give up long before the speakers or the amp does. If you don't notice anything wrong at 80wpc, don't sweat it, but if you do, more power will likely fix it.
  12. twofires

    WTB: E-Bike

    I would agree with this. Cheap dual suspension doesn't do its job on the bumpy stuff, and on the flat it just bounces up and down when you pedal rather than sending that energy where it needs to go. It's generally found on bikes that are trying to look the part, rather than something that's any good. They're the Sony MU TE KI of bikes. This looks alright, but suffers from the rack battery issue I was talking about: https://www.bikes.com.au/2020-xds-e-voke-electric-bike/ Having said that, the fork has a few mounting points that might make mounting a front rack and basket possible. Otherwise there's something like this: https://www.bikes.com.au/2019-lekker-jordaan-mens-e-bike/ Which has a front motor (a mixed bag) and a NuVinci CVT rear hub. An interesting one, for sure. It'd be heavy, though. NB: I haven't seen either of these in person, just going on the description and general experience with bikes from those manufacturers (they're mostly of acceptable quality for about town).
  13. twofires

    WTB: E-Bike

    Hey Jake, Speaking as someone who used to be an electric bike postie, and as someone who works at a bike shop that sees a LOT of cheap electric bikes come through the workshop (lots of Uber eats kids), I have the following advice; An electric motor means you'll wear through brake pads and tyres much faster than a regular pushie, so look for disc brakes if possible (so that you're wearing a rotor and not a rim), and replace the pads regularly. If shopping for a cheap electric bike, don't get the folding kind - cheap and folding usually means a bunch of telescopic bits and hinges that are going to wear out Some cheap electric bikes will have uncommon parts that are hard to source for anyone other than the importer, so see if you can figure out what the (electric specific) spare parts situation is when you buy the bike If the store you get it from seems like a box-moving kind of setup, before you ride it, take it to a repair specialist store and pay them to check over the whole thing and make sure it's put together properly - it'll save you money in the long term. Some electric bikes try to be clever with where they mount the battery by putting it in a rack that is integrated into the bike - unfortunately they sometimes do this in a way that means actually using the rack to carry anything else is near impossible. If you want the doggo to sit in a basket on the rack, explain that to the shop when you go to buy the bike, and get them to fit it then and there. No point dropping $1.5k on a bike that you can't make work for you. Being 6'2", and electric bikes being quite heavy, I would not be dropping off any gutters, and I'd also expect to have the rear wheel trued or even rebuilt at some point - fact of life with wheel motor (i.e. cheap) electric bikes. In general, I'd be looking for a big, aluminium electric bike with a rigid front fork (no suspension fork on a $1500 electric bike is going to be any good), big tyres (skinny tyres on a super heavy wheel means pinch flats), thick (13G) spokes in the motor wheel, and disc brakes. Hopefully that's helpful and not off-putting!
  14. I'm hyped for this. Will have to pick it up. Reviews seem positive:
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