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Pim

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About Pim

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    NSW
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    Australia

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  1. Best handyman work I've ever seen. Nice for a small apartment.
  2. That's the kind of amp the Dyn's need. The more power, the better they sound.
  3. Paul, What amp are you driving them with? I own the C1 and I've often though of upgrading to the C4. I've never heard them sound right in any shop though. I've heard the C2 on Parasound JC1's and they sounded great. The C4 though, was always partnered with low-ish powered amps when I entered a shop. I think for the tight bass to flesh out a bit, you're going to need lots of power. My C1's even improved going from Devialet 200 (200W into 6 Ohm) to the Original d' Atelier (1000W into 6 Ohm)
  4. My sister in law bought my brother a whole Sonos set up; Sound bar, sub and two satellites. The cost of this setup is the same as a pair of KEF LS50W's. There's no comparison, Sonos sounds dreadful
  5. Be careful if you're thinking of screwing through carpet. If the screws catches a thread, it can pull the carpet apart. Pre-cut a little cross into the carpet first.
  6. Since you are the person who's listening to the system I can't see anything wrong with adjusting it to suit your ears.
  7. The answer to that question and probably all questions is 'it depends', because every room is different. That's what I like about Jim's set up method. It's not a magic bullet approach but more a journey. This is an example of toe in in my experience; Same system, two rooms. In my previous living room we had reasonably ok damping on the walls. I had my speakers toed in to cross about half a meter behind my head. Now we're in a larger living room and we're not done yet with room treatment. There's a full glass wall on one side and a kitchen on the other and there's no way to treat those hard surfaces. So I had to deal with slap echo. My solution, after trying lots of positions, was to have the speakers closer to the wall than where I started. This makes the bass a little bit bloated but because they're stand mounts I needed the extra body that the speakers just couldn't deliver on their own. This way I didn't have to play as loud to get the same impact so less echo. That was a compromise. I toed them in to point right at my head so there was less slap echo compared to the direct sound. It's not ideal but it works better than with slap echo. That is another compromise. I have a timber floor and we can't have rugs so when I really want to enjoy some tunes, I put one of our two couches (the right one) in from of the speaker. The one on the left already sits in that position as it is. That way there's no reflection from the floor. The speakers are high enough to point over the couches to that works quite well. That's probably the most successful thing I've done. I have a Lazy Boy XXL chair. It's quite high and soft so my head just flops into it. That way I don't get much echo from the wall behind me either. So that's my setup. Yours will most likely be very different. The trick is to identify the problems and know what to do to fix them and that's where Jim Smith comes in very handy. My setup is far from ideal. The old living room sounded much better and I doubt very much that I'll ever get this new one to sound great. I'm planning to turn a spare bedroom into a listening room. That way I'll have total control. Hope this helps. Cheers, Pim
  8. I wonder whether that's the same spread sheet. If not, it would be interesting to compare.
  9. Have a look here: https://www.jhbrandt.net I'm not sure how I got it from them, download or email, but they can provide you with a spread sheet that will show you exactly what size room does what. It's very comprehensive and a bit complicated.
  10. Hi Ai, I had to read my own post again to make sure I had written it right. It turns out I did but since you mis-interpreted what I meant, so can others. I don't want to take over this thread so I'll try to keep it to what's relevant for this thread. So here goes. The room in the picture isn't ever going to sound great unless I do more treatment than the missus will allow. It's much better now and there's more to come so it'll be alright some day but not as good as I want to achieve. Hence the spare bedroom;Plan B The plan with the spare bedroom is where I want to fill the whole roof cavity with insulation and leave some gaps in the ceiling to use as bass traps. That's not really over the top because by the time I've put enough insulation in to keep the heat out underneath a tin roof there's not much extra to put in to fill it all the way up. Cost will be a few hundred extra dollars. It's not a big roof. I agree, my plan is guesswork for now but there's some degree of logic involved (I think. Correct me if I'm wrong) By having the roof and walls all filled with insulation you have effectively got all the absorption you need and more. By covering only certain parts of the walls and ceiling bit by bit, it's easy to find a point where it all just works. It's almost the same as covering gyprocked walls with absorption but in reverse. I'm hoping to do this in conjunction with a professional and I'm willing to pay for a few days work if that's what it takes to get things right. I've also looked into size ratios and I can get pretty close to what's considered 'ideal' for low frequencies by some pro who sent me a spread sheet a while ago. The ceiling will be flat though. I've never read anything positive about cathedral ceilings and sound reproduction. There is a little bit about it in Jim Smith's Get Better Sound. He reckons the reflections off a raked ceiling are harder to work with than with a flat one. I don't know what the theory behind that is. All I know is, with a flat ceiling there's less surface that can reflect to that's a plus for a flat ceiling. Less work to do to fix unwanted reflections. I hope this cleared things up a bit. Cheers, Pim
  11. I have a cathedral ceiling in my new living room. Looks great, sounds horrible. See picture. I'm looking to utilise our spare bedroom for audio and my plan is to fill the whole roof cavity with insulation and only cover the centre part with a large diffuser. Keep the sides open, covered with some kind of acoustically open material so that can work as a bass trap. I'm planning the same with the walls; only cover enough to make the room 'alive' enough and have holes in the gyprock instead of covering gyprock with absorbers where needed.
  12. I too am a member of the 'Jim Smith Get Better Sound' fan club. There seem to be two camps that I can identify. 1. Sound stage lovers 2. Tonal colour lovers Jim Smith is in the second camp and so am I. The guy in the Youtube video who says sound stage is the most important thing for him to listen to is missing out in my opinion. I have a window that's over 6m wide, 2.7m high with a bar at 1.1m. In the building stage of the room, when the insulation was done and before the gyprock went up, I set up a pair of KEF LS50W on the bar. So there was nothing behind them and everything in the room they were pointing towards was super damped. It wasn't hard to get the most incredible sound stage I have ever heard in my life, from any system in any room. It was so good it was spooky. The music hang it the air like nothing else and even though I could see the speakers, I couldn't identify the sound coming out of them. You would think I was thrilled. I was thrilled with the accomplishment of creating this incredible sound stage but there was something much more important missing; Tone. Nothing sounded like it's supposed to sound. There was no body to voice or instruments. It didn't sound real. I'm sure this could be fixed by having much more powerful speakers with better bass. After all, outdoor concerts don't have walls to help out the speakers. But on average I would say setting up your speakers to get the best tone is more important than sound stage in a home setup. Jim Smith mentions he keep track of the triangle he ends up with after he has set up speakers for his customers and he's come to an average of I believe an 83% (could be 87%, I don't have the book here) width to distance ratio. So if the speakers are 10m away from you ears, they would be 8.3m apart tweeter to tweeter. This is an average, not a rule. I've tried Jim's method in my old room (the new room has 'special' issues) and I found there actually was a point where the tone was best and the sound stage actually became pretty good too. But nothing like that time when I set the KEFs up in the window. There's a lot more in Jims book and I urge everyone to give it a go. It changed my viewpoint of what can be accomplished with a system forever. Even to the point that whenever I listen to some other systems made up of much better equipment than mine I always conclude that mine sounds better, more natural and real.
  13. A mate of mine has the 802 D2 and their bass drivers are very hard to move. I was unpleasantly surprised by their lack of articulation in the bass, even with my very powerful amps running them. If the 804 D2 are similarly hard to drive, a change in speakers, not necessarily an upgrade, might be the way to go. I have Dynaudio C1's and even they are better (not louder of course) in the bass. Read this in the context of having either speakers set up in different rooms but it's something to explore.
  14. Item: Ideon 3R USB Renaissance Re-clocker Location: Tweed region Price: $250 delivered by Australia Post anywhere in Australia. Item Condition: Some of the writing has worn. Other than that she's like new. Reason for selling: Upgrading Payment Method: Pickup - Cash, Bank transfer. Paypal if you're willing to pay the extra cost. Extra Info: I'll let the reviews talk for themselves on how good this thing really is. It comes with a Schuko plug on the power supply so I'm including the adaptor to Aussie power points. Reviews: https://www.dagogo.com/ideon-3r-renaissance-wyred4sound-recovery-re-clockers-review/ https://www.theabsolutesound.com/articles/ideon-audio-3r-usb-renaissance-usb-hub/ Photos: Advertisements without photos of the actual item will not be approved.
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