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About hiya

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  1. Maybe you could try updating via a VPN. Not sure if it could be geoblocking but at least it gives you another crack at solving the issue.
  2. No - most of the back of the cabinet is cut out. I have often found more problems with amps at the top of a stack rather than the bottom. I suspect because of heat trapping within the top of the cabinet.
  3. Great job and thread. I particularly like the calibrated capacitor killing knife! How can anyone not like a beastly receiver.
  4. https://www.ikea.com/au/en/catalog/products/80245961/#/50245849 Besta is best. (the one in the photo is a 60x40x38cm). Comfortably accommodates 80's era tuner, amp, cassette with a few LPs and turntable on top. Put the Ikea wheels on it, easy to move around. You can store your records or other hifi equipment inside of it. The wheels can also help with attenuating any vibrations. I have used these on carpet and wooden floors without issue. I have used a few as per the photo and also the taller 60x40x64cm one with a shelf will fit an amplifier/receiver with space for records under the shelf. I glue all joints including the back panel. Once dry and assembled I cut or drill appropriate access holes in the back panel for power, aerials, interconnects, speaker cable etc. The photo setup has a power board attached to the back with all units plugged in. When needed I have just one cord to connect to power and obviously speaker cables.
  5. NAD M50.2 https://nadelectronics.com/product/m… This might be of interest. Do not know much about it but seems to be a hamburger with the lot.
  6. I reckon the photo 2 speaker box is the cheapest I have seen. How does the polystyrene box sound? It would certainly be lighter than mdf!
  7. https://firstchoicecomms.com.au/product/velcro-25m-roll-19mm/ Cheapest way to buy velcro for wrapping cords - you can cut to any length required, rewrap as required. Fix to cabinets with screws etc. Can be purchased at many computer cable/electrician suppliers. @Sentient has a good project underway which may offer some ideas
  8. Yes, your hifi equipment looks like it has around a minimum of 10cm or so space from rear panel to rear edge of shelf, plenty of room to drill a large hole through the shelf. What we are after is similar to a hole through a desktop for computer leads however you will not require a Computer Desk grommet in this instance eg. https://www.bunnings.com.au/kia-ora-60mm-black-cable-duct_p4020173 (these are readily available in 50 or 60mm diameters or rectangular shaped). We just want the holes through each shelf vertically aligned preferably. You can then feed cables from top to bottom down through the holes and your leads will be safely and neatly captured with the holes rather than hanging out in the breeze. If you are not comfortable drilling the shelves go with option 1 using the velcro screwed to the rails at regular intervals to create you own neat vertical cable rail with leads secured within the velcro. If you intend to drill make sure you have a couple of practice runs on scrap wood of similar thickness well secured as the hole saw can grab and kickback prior to destructing you good shelves! Always remember to masking tape both sides greater than the circumference of the hole saw and partially drill through one side to start the large cut into the wood, then flip over and centre the saw drill arbor bit in your hole and continue the cut through to provide an non chipped, clean hole https://www.bunnings.com.au/craftright-9-piece-bi-metal-holesaw-set_p6370857 there are many similar kits to this available at tool or hardware stores.
  9. https://firstchoicecomms.com.au/product/velcro-25m-roll-19mm/ (most useable cable management ever - better than cable ties) Option 1: You have lots of vertical rail available to use sections of around 2-3" (~75mm long) of velcro single wood screwed in the middle of each piece at around each shelf or second shelf (20-30cm or what suits best). This will provide an easy refastenable and repositionable solution to neatening up your signal cables. You can also attach to the shelfs as well for horizontal cable control. Option 2: I know you have completed the build but a great solution is to use a hole drill at around 50mm or so - big enough to pass mains plugs though and drill holes near each rear shelf corner allowing maybe 20-30mm from rear of shelf and 50-100mm from the sides. All holes in line vertically. You have enough room at the rear of each shelf. All cables can then be will be nicely contained within these holes. One side for signal cables and the other for power. (I would have suggested this earlier however you have just posted rear cable photos) If you intend to drill use painters masking tape on each side of the shelf and partially drill through each side to get a clean non chip cut though the masking tape before continuing the cut all the way through
  10. This might be a good option. https://www.storedj.com.au/art-pro-audio-dti-dual-transformer-isolator
  11. The quick fix would be to spray them black (or any other colour that suits). I think White Knight or Dulux produce a spray for kitchen laminates that also works well on plastics. RE: picture 1 - I also directly attach power boards (with screws/cable ties) to rear cabinetry. It helps to keep everything neat and off the floor and aids with cable management. Computer server cabinet power supply rails are available in 19" rack format that often can be made to fit cabinets are a good option
  12. Good to see a HiFi stack with a Graphic Equalizer, great job with the build although I think your middle remote in the top photo is ever so slightly to the right of the centre line!
  13. I have been using 4 X Buffalo DVSM-PC58UTV for a number of years (there may be an updated model) concurrently using Phile Audio on an iMac. I have found this to be the easiest solution. Have used iTunes, XLD, dbPoweramp, Max and others but finding Phile works very simply. I dual rip to Apple Lossless and AIFF. My rippling problems mostly are related to successfully getting the correct artwork. Very rarely have I had a ripping problem with errors.
  14. Hi Rangi, I had a look at the linked KEF manual and page 3 shows what appears to be the optimum speaker placement with distances from wall, between speakers and listening position. These do not appear to be suited as a NFM. Also the seller is selling as he has replaced them with something smaller for his PC speakers. I am using Adam F5 actives on IsoAccoustics stands via an external DAC. I find this combo not overwhelming in size next to an iMac, is very musical and non fatiguing and has a great soundstage and good bass. I use this for listening to music, YouTube etc, not for music production. I did consider the F7 series of actives (I think these are now the T7) and they are certainly a bit larger than the F5 but could work. The KEF Q1 looks larger again from your T7s Also remember the Adams have EQ adjustments to allow fine tuning to account for near to wall/corner placement. I do note that the T7 has a rear port compared to front port on the F5/7. I am not sure if this may cause issues. Other speaker I had listened to and thought were very good were from the EVE, Genelac and PreSonus range at similar sizes
  15. Ultimate Ears BOOM 3 Portable Bluetooth Speaker https://www.jbhifi.com.au/ultimate-ears/ultimate-ears-boom-3-portable-bluetooth-speaker-ultraviolet-purple/336807/ My kids have had these for over three years (school & uni), waterproof floating, multiples can be synced together for party. Sounds great and good battery life and almost bullet proof.
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