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  1. "(she doesn't want upgrade)?" - I don't think she is giving you a subliminal message, remember HAPPY WIFE HAPPY LIFE! These are good machines i think i may have had one running High Sierra 10.13 but performance wasn't great. With older machines and OS software upgrades i think the best strategy is to look at the cost benefit vs time spent with what gains you may get from the new software eg 32 vs 64 bit app performance, new features, security updates etc vs potential problems after update with machine slowing down, peripherals requiring reconfiguration or changing drivers etc. The adage "if it works don't fix it" can be your best friend particularly if you have a machine that is doing everything (mostly) you want efficiently and comfortably. At some point upgrading to a new machine with the latest OS is the best way to ensure smooth performance with all the latest software, security and hardware features.
  2. Yes from memory browser support has long stopped for this OS. I think Opera and Chrome were also options with Safari and I remember this development (Arctic Fox) but never tried it. It may be an option https://github.com/wicknix/Arctic-Fox/wiki/Downloads
  3. If the machine is a 17 or 20inch Late 2006 iMac with processors running at 2.0, 2.16 or 2.33GHz then Mac OSX 10.7 Lion is the limit. I am not sure if i would update your machine. I found 10.6.8 Snow Leopard to be a very stable OS
  4. @blybo and @peppy did you guys resolve your problems and if so can you tell us what worked
  5. Excellent forum and your speakers are awesome. In light of the last post i think you should have named them Stumpmaster instead of Thumpmaster 🤭
  6. I use one of these with a Primaluna Pre amp. (not selling my phono stage just a recommendation for a valve phono stage with multiple inputs and outputs). https://www.projectaudio.com.au/products/tube-box-ds2 In order to connect to a second system (zone) in another room it would be better to cable from an amplifier preamp output to the input to the second amp rather than using a long phono stage cable. Maybe a bluetooth/wifi streaming solution like a Sonos or similar would be a better to integrate the two zones if you don't want to or have difficulty with the cable run. I have a multizone Sonos system and use a Sonos connect to integrate the main hifi to the other Sonos zones when needed. There are many ways of doing this with most of the AV and Hifi brands offering streaming solutions eg Yamaha MusicCast, Denon Heos, Bluesound, B&O etc. At a minimum you would need a device at each zone (could be a powered speaker) but you would be able to build on this in future. You could contact these guys for advice on something that may be suitable. They have consumer hifi/av gear as well as more specialist av installer equipment. https://www.radioparts.com.au/category/av-accessories/multiroom-av-distribution/multiroom-audio
  7. Technics SH-8020 Stereo Frequency Equalizer in the garage system. Gold FM on the radio playing Solid Rock by Goanna. Cannot do 80's hifi tech and music any better than this!
  8. Hi @peppy i had a similar problem a few weeks ago with all internet apps getting the spinning wheel and also difficulty with bluetooth accessing keyboard. I cannot remember if a software update preceded these problems. I have a similar specced but older 27" iMac with a little bit more RAM. I Initially tried logging out, then shutting down without resolving the issue. I then did a PRAM reset https://support.apple.com/en-au/HT204063 (i do a couple of these) followed by an SMC reset https://support.apple.com/en-au/HT201295. This seems to have sorted things out.
  9. Is the issue with the download of High Sierra rather than the install process to make a bootable drive? If so try this link https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/macos-high-sierra/id1246284741
  10. USBs used are Verbatim Gold ( ~$12 for 16GB) https://www.officeworks.com.au/shop/officeworks/p/verbatim-store-n-go-16gb-usb-3-0-flash-drive-gold-vbgold16gb and Kingston DATA Traveler ( ~$12 for 32GB) https://www.centrecom.com.au/32g-kingston-data-traveller-dt100-g3-usb-30-flash-drive I haven't ever had problems with any of these and will often buy a few at a time and keep a boot USB copy at home and another at the office
  11. I have used either of these two free usb creators over a number of years. https://diskmakerx.com or https://macdaddy.io/install-disk-creator/ When i get a new mac or are going to upgrade to a new OS i patch a new USB boot disc with the OS and use this then keep the USB on file. Apple are now good at providing instructions to create a boot USB and the Terminal code to do so but the programs above make the process very easy without going to Terminal. I add any relevant security/combo updates (https://support.apple.com/downloads/macos) to the USB (8GB were sufficient but 16GB USB provide plenty of space) as required. If an OS has multiple dot point versions i will recreate the USB with the most current full version of the software. I also keep a copy on NAS drive
  12. I am on Macs using multiple (4x) USB connected drives (a mix of Buffalo DVD RW and/or Samsung Bluray) to an iMac (40GB ram/Quad core i5). I have been able to rip 4 discs concurrently. I have used iTunes, XLD and many other software over the years but currently favour Phile Audio as it is just easy and works. I mostly dual rip (ie when the CD is ripping it encodes to two separate files in the one pass in my case Apple Lossless (ALAC) and AIFF). You can choose from MPEG4-AAC, Apple Lossless, Org Vorbis, FLAC, MP3, AIFF & WAV. I use a mix of equipment to stream/play the files from either the MAC or from a NAS - SONOS, iTunes and an Aurender. I don't use MQA so cannot provide an opinion. So to answer your questions: 1. given you are using a mac, most usb or external drives will work without requiring extra driver software eg https://www.centrecom.com.au/external-optical-drives the lg usb at $49 would be an example of a drive similar to what i use. 2. Apple Lossless and FLAC are the most common comparable lossless formats. I chose Apple as this is mostly my ecosystem and iTunes didn't /wouldn't support FLAC. AIFF and WAV encodes are an uncompressed rip of the CD differing in that AIFF can store metadata and WAV does not. I do have WAV files and the Mac can handle these. If i was working in the PC world i would most likely choose FLAC and WAV. I think a lot of Linux based CD ripping HiFi equipment mostly rip to FLAC Hope this helps
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