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About hiya

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  1. We shot our last one about 6 months ago. 12 gauge with no 6 shot vs CRT no match!
  2. https://www.audioactive.com.au/VA_dash_BHOVEN-BG_dash_SE(R)/Vienna-Acoustics-Beethoven-Baby-Se-Grand-Rosewood-_dash_-END-OF-LINE/pd.php?filters=ManufacturerName:Vienna Acoustics What about these and get them vinyl wrapped
  3. I heard this system at the last hifi show (i think?) and was impressed, active speakers with inbuilt dac, aux inputs, bluetooth & turntable. Looked great in white. https://www.stereo.net.au/reviews/review-triangle-turntable-elara-ln01a-speaker-pack Seems to be available at a couple of places discounted to just over $1000. (Selby and KlappAV) probably hard to go wrong at this price for a complete system
  4. Interesting article on a Pioneer PL-514 restoration/service https://liquidaudio.com.au/pioneer-pl-514-turntable-service-2/ I agree re the musicality delivered by the AT95 cartridges and i have them on a number of vintage Japanese turntables from the 1970-80's i own (pioneer, onkyo, hitachi, yamaha & denon) as the price/quality value ratio is hard to beat. If the OP wants to experience a different sound with his system, trying a different cartridge is still the easiest option.
  5. I agree with @rantan that to get a significant upgrade will cost you a lot of money. The other options mentioned may cost you money and may be a sideways move or worse. If you want to try something for the least cost I would upgrade the cart and see how that goes.
  6. Are you using a centre punch to mark the aluminium prior to drilling to stop the bit wandering?
  7. https://www.carltonaudiovisual.com.au/clearance-items/klipsch-the-three-luxury-copper-timber-stereo-tabletop-system-with-phono.html I haven't listened to this but might be a good deal and solution for you with inbuilt phono and bluetooth. KISS principle and you could sell the Mani and buy lots more records. If its easy to use everyone will use it more.
  8. https://www.macfixit.com.au/docks/docking-stations/macbook-12-docking-stations/
  9. https://www.jbhifi.com.au/products/apple-usb-c-digital-av-multiport-adapter-1 Handy and small. Can connect HDMI, USB-C & standard USB
  10. Mains can range between 253 volts AC to 216 volts AC on a single phase circuit, hence the 250 volt rating of the sockets. The reasons for the the supply variance are varied and issues stabilising the voltage at 230 volts must be exceedingly difficult with the increased uptake of intermittent power generated by solar, wind etc distances of user from the generation site, time of day usage et al.
  11. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AS/NZS_3112 Do not change the wall socket! At a glance the power conditioning bar in the link does not look like it is compliant with Australian Regulations. Someone can correct me but I would be worried about soldered joints on a mains bus bar unit where you could plug in multiple high current drawing devices. My view would be to buy an Australian certified unit and at least have some hope of claiming insurance after the house burns down!
  12. Have you enabled file sharing and media sharing on the mojave computer via the system preferences-sharing preference panel?
  13. Scarves #3 Cleckheaton Superfine, Denim and Stone stripe & #11 Cleckheaton Superfine cowl in Cream, Stone and Black & Beanie #1 Cleckheaton Superfine Malachite and Stone Thanks again
  14. I am not sure of your soldering experience but if not a lot, consider tip size/shape relative to the component/joint/material you are heating up, solder type and correct temperatures are all important irrespective of whether or not you are using a cheaper or more expensive iron. Preparation of materials is also important - pre tinning pads if necessary or using something like scotch brite to shine up component leads and remove oxidisation/gunk whatever will all help to achieve a well soldered joint. It may be that the equipment you already have is OK but you need to better match the parameters suggested above to achieve a good result. Google and Youtube may save you some cash. I only use tin/lead rosin cored solder and believe the aerospace industry still uses this instead of lead free. My supplies are probably 30 years old and were good enough to solder circuits in avionic equipment in Mirage III, F111 et al and all sorts of civilian jets. I reckon if those joints hold at Mach 2+ and god knows what G-force (+ve & -ve) its good enough for HiFi. As a default my iron would be set at around 350 C for the tin/lead rosin core solder - but remember if your tip size/shape is too small for the component you will take too long to heat joint/component to correct temp and your solder joint will generally be poor/dry. Conversely if you use an overly large wattage/big tip iron on a small component you will probably fry the component, lift the pad if soldering a circuit board.
  15. What solder are you using - lead or lead free?
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