bob_m_54

True, this can be a common fault, but is often a trivial fix, if you can get the right size drive belt. For a decent quality player, it can be a good reason for a substantial discount on the asking price 😉

Yep they're the ones. May also include in the decription, "Unwanted Gift" "Moving and don't need them in our new place".

A lot of these end up on Gumtree. Some for tens of dollars by the ones who realise they are garbage, but others trying to recoup their losses will list them in the high hundreds to thousands of dollars.

Sandra Oh

Any difference is more likely to be cable orientation, rather than material, when comparing like for like metals (ie tinned copper wire). Overall guage, number and thickness of strands and insulation thickness which will determine separation distance of the conductors, may all have an effect. Personally I find bulk off the shelf copper cable works for me though.

Check for the square within a square symbol, if it has that, it is double insulated. If it isn't double insulated, and doesn't have an earth pin, return the equipment and get your money back, and report the importer/seller.

Depending on the size (usually 4mm² to 10mm²) you could use it anywhere you'd use any other sheathed twin cable of the particular size. I tend to use a fair bit of 4mm² and 6mm² twin wiring for 12V stuff in cars, trailers, caravans etc.

What do you mean by "PV Cable" ? is it solar panel cable?

@andyr I'm interested in reading more about "The Wood Effect" as it pertains to mains power feed into an amplifier (or any other electronics equipment), but from what I have read, and that isn't either of the manuscripts by Charles Wood nor Clark Johnson, it pertains to Audio Signals. Whether or not there is any perceptual difference in that area is a totally different discussion. Do you know of any links to an article somewhere that says it has any effect on Mains AC input into any device? Personally, I believe there is no way it can make a difference, but that may just be the technician in me colouring my view. Edit: I have Googled what I was trying to find, without success though.

If I was smarter, I could have worked out where the sliders on the switch were located when 240V selected LOL. But it was doing my head in LOL

I use a Fetch Mighty, and it has been working great for the last 2? years. When I first got it, it had an issue with no picture, when first turned on, but maybe due to a firmware update, it hasn't done that for ages. You do need an internet connection, for it to work. And you have to register it online (cost $1.00 from memory) in case you do decide to watch a movie from one of the pay services. It also uses the net connection for programme data, which it also uses for programmed recordings, and for catchup TV. We have a gen 2, which has three tuners. This means you can record two channels from two channel groups (4 recordings) and watch from a third channel group. The Gen 3 has four tuners, so it can record two channels from each of three channel groups (6 recordings), and watch a fourth channel group. When you tag a series for recording, the Fetch remembers the tags, and adjusts recording times according to the listing in the EPG. It may be a few mins out here and there, but it rarely misses the start and finish of programs. You can add time to the start and end of the programmed time to overcome any of this if you want, but I've only ever had to do that for a couple of channels that have a movie after a show that notoriously runs overtime. And it's no worse, and probably better than a lot of PVRs that use channel transmitted data for the EPG. The Gen 2 has a 1TB HDD, and I've had well over 100 recordings, with mostly movies and a few full series listed as a group in that. Another nice feature is you can add a number of Fetch Minis to the system, and they act like a remote access point to the Mighty. You can setup your recordings, view and delete from the Minis too. If you look at buying one second hand, you have to make sure it isn't locked to an ISP, and that the original owner has cancelled their subscription for that box, or it will be unusable for you. I recently picked up a Mini from Gumtree for $50.00, after making sure that it was unlocked and subs cancelled, and use it in my shed. No more running up to the house to set up recordings on the Mighty :) One downside is that I haven't found a way to transfer recordings to external storage media, which would be nice for concert recordings. Overall, it's probably the best system I've used, and I'm more than happy with mine.

Yes, I remember having one of those velcro'd to the console in the old Toyota Camry. ESP (Sony) = Electronic Shock Protection, which was basically a bigger memory buffer.

Your effective circuit will be as per this:

If the USB data was so bad that that it caused buffer under runs, in the external DAC I could see problems. But that would be very bad data transmission. Edit: and that wouldn't be anything to do with the FLAC decoding

I'm still not convinced that there is a problem with jitter introduced by decoding FLAC files though. Although i haven't really looked, at any great length, into decoding chip architecture, I'm sure most would employ a data buffer of some description, and CRC error checking, to maintain data integrity.