bob_m_54

That tends to disagree with just about every teaching on electrical flow and magnetic flux. The magnetic flux is produced as a result of the current flowing through a conductor. This is why motors and generators work. The current flow (or rate of change of charge) is generated by applying an Electro Motive Force (EMF) or Voltage, across the conductor. The atoms in a conductor, to put it simplistically, have an outer shell of easily displaced electrons surrounding the nucleus. When the EMF is applied to the conductor (ie Neg on end Pos the other) Electrons are supplied to one end, inducing the localised atoms of the conductor to accept extra electrons producing Negatively charged Ions. The Neg Ions in turn will give up Electrons to their surrounding Neutral Charge Atoms in natures attempt to equalise. At the same time, the reverse is happening at the Positive end of the conductor. The positive charge of the EMF attracts Electrons, which are stripped from the outer shell of the localised atoms, producing Positive Ions. The Positive Ions attract Electrons from their neighbouring Neutral Atoms in an attempt to equalize the charge difference between them, and so on. If the conductor was only one atom wide, the transference of electrons (hence charge) would be like the balls of a Newton's Cradle. One ball hits the group, and one ball is ejected from the other end. Two balls hit the group (bigger EMF) two balls are ejected at the other end. But as the conductors are many millions of atoms thick, the actual path of each electron is meandering, but ultimately in the direction forced by the EMF. The speed with which the effects of the differential charges occurs, is close to the speed of light, Even though the speed of individual electrons that transfer from one atom to another, zigzagging down the length of the conductor is very slow. Incidentally, it is easier to understand Electron Flow Theory of Electric Current because of this, and especially if you are into Valve gear. I learnt and used Electron flow for 30 years, then had to change to Conventional Flow when I started my Advanced Diploma in 2000. That was interesting for the first few weeks.

What about this blokes music: Look at Your Game Girl Unplugged

Have you tried your antenna set up for Vertical Polarisation (turned on it's side)? It looks like DAB is vertical, and your FM antenna is most likely set as horizontal.

Another vote for the Fetch Mighty here. I don't use any of the movie services, so can't comment on the 4K capability, but for everything else it works well. What I have found to be a real plus, is I bought a second hand Fetch mini to use with the Fetch Mighty. This gives the ability to view content recorded on the Mighty in another location. You can also set recordings and series tags via the Mini. One negative that I have found is that the Fetch uses FTA program info data from it's own website. The problem with this is that it doesn't give year of release, or cast info for movies screening FTA. Not a big deal, unless you have movies where you don't know if it's a remake of a movie, or the original. Also, I sometimes find that the description may be a bit generic? So when you decide to record an action movie, it can be disappointing when you do start watching it, only to find it is a Chuck Norris or Stephen Segal movie. This is a very minor problem though, and is easily remedied with the delete button. Edit: I forgot to mention that very early on I sometimes had the problem where I'd turn on the Fetch, TV and AV amp, and I'd only get sound but no picture. To remedy this, you had to remove power from the Fetch and let it reboot, then all good again. This problem hasn't re-surfaced at all over the last 6? months. It may e due to a firmware update, but I really don't know.

Yeah, and I've had this problem for about a month now. I wish I did know what the problem was though, just in case LOL. Anyway, it's working again, so now I can select music without having to boot up the lappy to do it. 🙂

Yes, sorry, I did that too. turn phone off, hold vol up and home buttons, while powering on, select clear cache etc. It didn't make any difference. But...... and I have no idea how or why...... I was playing with the Twonky control interface, on the WD MyCloud, and blocked access to my phone, hoping to add it once again, once the media receiver database was updated. I wouldn't have thought it would affect the yammy app, because it is only controlling the AV Receiver, but it is reading the DLNA server listings for album, artist etc. But now I couldn't even open the Twonky interface web page on the WD MyCloud via the laptop. Just about to throw my hands in the air and give up again. Opened to WD MyCloud web interface, and saw that a firmware update was listed a couple of days ago. Thinking that this could be a very bad idea, I threw caution to the wind and selected "Update Firmware" which would also update Twonky, if there were any updates. (should have noted the version of Twonky currently running). I went away and made a coffee, while update and reboot of the WD Mycloud took place. Came back, had access to WD interface, and Twonky again... phew... Checked that the Yammy web interface on the lappy was working with streamed files from the WD as it should... yes it did... phew again. Opened the app on my phone.............. bugger me, it's also working as it should. It just doesn't make sense though, as it was working on my wife's phone, but not working on mine.

There is one thing I have yet to try, other than re-initialising the phone (not happening lol). Because the music library is pretty big, over 3500 albums, the app may somehow be stuck in a loop from when I accidentally hit "All Tracks" a while ago, and it timed out. But, I am almost positive that I was using it after that with no problems. I need to mask or hide most of the library, so that the app can go through the list "All Tracks" process, then try reversing back up the listing. It's the only thing I can think of, but if this was the case, removing the data and cache should have fixed that, let alone deleting and re-installing the app again.

Force stopped, deleted data, deleted cache, uninstalled app, re-installed app............................. same problem. The app has virtually no settings for the actual app, apart from allowing manual entry of the receiver. All other option are for the receiver functionality.

Thanks @Snoopy8 , but the problem seems to be isolated to the app, as it operates on my phone only. It even works correctly on my wife's phone which is the same as mine, and same version of Android, and the same version of the app. The app was working perfectly prior to this problem setting in too. I'm streaming from the NAS now, using the receiver's web interface, and it show's all the correct listings for Album, All Tracks, Artist, Artist Index, Artist/Album etc. The music is playing fine, and the album info is correct as shown. This is what the phone shows: If I select the only option, "All Tracks", the phone just shows the searching rotating circle, and eventually times out. This is what the web interface shows on my Linux Laptop, connected via WiFi:

I've always been interested in the similarities of Eastern European music, and Middle Eastern music. I've never done any research on it, but you can definitely hear it. This page has some interesting information: Romany Music

Still haven't found a solution to this problem. Nobody have any ideas on this?

Because I obtained it in 1990, and it has long since been used. Also, mine was decanted from a 20L drum into a plastic container. I can't remember the brand, but it was military specc'd...... and that's all I can say about that.... ;-)

I took the thread at face value, but I think Leo just doesn't understand the concept of design accuracy. And, so far, that's just looking at one speaker box. When you throw the other speaker box into the mix, given the degree of variation of possible actual resistance measurements, there is no way you could jag that degree of accuracy with both boxes. Adding to this, is what method of testing for a discernable difference he has used? What does it prove? That trimming resistors to within a couple of decimal places is not going to be discernable to the ear. Edit: after the last post, that beat me by seconds, yeah I think he's been pulling our legs too.

Just having a look at your mesh of resistors, with 5% tolerance, if you are using the common white cement body 5W resistors: Nominal 12Ω // 3.9Ω + 0.47Ω = 3.413396Ω All + 5% 12.6Ω // 4.095Ω + 0.4935 = 3.584066Ω This is the maximum in tolerance value All - 5% 11.4Ω // 3.705Ω + 0.4465Ω = 3.242726Ω This is the minimum in tolerance value So the variation could be as large as 0.34134Ω, or 10% of your stated final value. So do you see why people are questioning the accuracy to five decimal places?

Do you mean these types of resistors? Which is actually a 5% tolerance wire wound resistors? Or maybe something like this, which is a Ceramic Composition Resistor, with commonly a 10% tolerance?