bob_m_54

A bit taller and it would make an excellent bench grinder stand.

Have a look here, there are heaps of editors about. Music Metadata Editors Personally I use a full management package called MediaMonkey. I have the gold (paid) version and it's very powerful. If you're only viewing and editing tags, then one of the free progs suitable for your computer OS will do.

Yep, you are correct. Loxton/Mt Gambier SA and Griffith NSW Win Corporation transmits Nine Network, 10 Network, and 7 Network. Well there ya go...

Huh? WIN is a different network.

Those phenolic boards can be a bit of a bugger when desoldering. It's very easy to lift pads, as you found out, by applying heat for too long. Best way is to remove as much solder as possible, as quickly as possible, in short bursts. No more than 2 seconds (max) of heat applied per pad, then let them cool off. You need an iron with a big enough tip, that can deliver enough heat to melt the solder quickly. Too small an iron will do more damage. I generally use a sucker to remove the bulk of the solder, then solder wick to clean up the rest. 1. Get iron up to heat (check by pushing a piece of solder against the tip face, and it will melt with only a very very slight resistance to your pressure) , then clean the tip and place the face onto the solder pad, applying a small mount of solder to form a heat bridge between the iron tip and the solder pad. 2. When you see the solder melt use the sucker to remove as much as you can in one hit, keeping in mind that you don't want the iron on the pad for any more than 2 seconds. Proceed to the next joint and do the same. 3. Get some solder wick braid, gently loosen the weave a bit, if it the compact type, and apply a small amount flux to the braid. Again with a freshly cleaned tip, apply a small amount of solder to the iron and quickly press the braid down onto the solder pad with the iron. Again be mindful of no more than 2 seconds on the pad. You may need to repeat this step a couple of times, letting the pad cool between applications, to remove the rest of the solder. 4. gently probe the component leads to make sure they are not still attached by solder. If they are, it will usually be on one side of the lead. With your soldering iron tip applied to the component lead only, gently push the lead away from the attached side till it detaches. 5. Once you are sure the leads aren't still held by any solder, you can remove the component from the other side. Never try wriggling the component while heating the solder pad. The pad will detach from the board before the solder melts fully.

Back in the olden days, when the Amiga 500 was alive, they used to call any of the productivity software (graphics, audio, video, programming and office etc.) "Applications", while smaller programs, for specific purposes were called Utilities.

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Sorry for the assumption, I was just trying to figure out the cable orientation, and how the insulation was applied. But... anyway... Edit: we are still talking about speaker cable aren't we?

Acually, I would have expected it to be somewhat conductive to electricity, as well as heat. But in the Description on your link it states:

Was the oversize tubing used in both situations? ie both PTFE and FEP oversized tubing? Using oversized tubing will effectively separate the conductors further, and lower the capacitance of the lead. This would definitely affect the sound, I agree. If you used oversized tubing, in both situations, and heard a difference, then ? you heard a difference. I have no explanation as to why you should, apart from the separation distance may not be regular down the length of the lead, and therefore the capacitance of leads constructed in the same way, but with the different insulators could have different capacitance properties, and may sound different. I am assuming you used oversized tubing over each conductor in the lead; ie two tubes per lead, one over the pos conductor and the other over the neg conductor. Correct me if I am wrong here.

If the plugs don't fit snugly in the power board sockets, ditch the power board. A loose contact will cause heat due to contact resistance. This will cause burning at the contact points and further exacerbate the problem. The "sparky" should be aware of that. Recommendations for fitting an earthing wire to the TT is mentioned in the manual: https://gzhls.at/blob/ldb/2/e/3/a/3d539e87e6cc991c78aa631afa82b78e37bb.pdf But it is a signal ground, not a safety ground. It is very unlikely you are getting a shock from the external power supply. As previously stated by @Monkeyboi, it's probably static.

I think they should be mounted with the Earth Pin down. Ground is always down where I live. But if you have one of those freakin expensive audiophile power cables (cords are for dangling things off of), that are made from elephant cable, you may have to adjust mounting angles to suit the cable's wall socket orientation. Other than that, I would also consider E pin up, E pin right, or at a pinch, E pin left.

A great job there mate, but I have one question. Why did you spell your name Mslcolm in your profile panel? 🤔

Geez, I would have thought it was something more to do with some kind of copy protection, and not just DbPoweramp. I have always used EAC, and ripped around 1700 CDs, with the only errors or failure to read being caused by physical damage. And that's only on a few tracks of the CD, never had a complete failure to read any...... yet.