Jump to content

southern_tango

Full Member
  • Content Count

    70
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

27 Neutral

About southern_tango

  • Rank
    50+ Post Club

Profile Fields

  • Location
    Victoria
  • Country
    Australia

Recent Profile Visitors

1,085 profile views
  1. You are right , usually double insulated in small apliances is achieved by two means , electrical parts are encased on insulated material (usually plastic chassis) and in some case earthed . JH / Silcrom TTs are very simple ,they use a synchronous motor that runs from the mains ( 240 v. 50 Hz) with a lamp type switch ,option of neon indicator, change in speed is achieved by a double pulley again with the option of a seesaw type of lever. I am not sure where I saw it but there was cases of user feeling a tingling sensation as the only insulation are the rubber spacers (again not 100%
  2. I have some dound deadening material of that kind ( leftovers from my ex job) was thinking about...
  3. And it's done... Solid timber armboard ( guess the timber get the price) Corrected all measurements now it clears the base , unluckily the cover doesn't fit so for the moment it is going to seat inside a cabinet ( I have a cat)
  4. May give this a go..looking for something saw this piece of bamboo I forgot that I have ,was intended to be a plinth for a project so it is the same size as the Akai TT on top ( first one I bought about 5/6 years ago) A bit thicker at 35 mm should work fine...
  5. So....I did as Ian F but with a little twist letting the wires "float" from the p clip , everything looked ok until I put the base and suspension locked up again...worked a bit on the springs pressure ,nothing. Until I put the tt on it's back one more time...and discovered the problem...It was ME !! when installed the tonearm did a jig to get the 222 mm center to center spindle to axis and trying to compensate for the longer counterweight...well tonearm connector hits the edge of the perforation in the base 😞😞😞
  6. More questions appealing to your experience, should I replace the 240 V. wires to two pole and earth connecting the earth yo the chassis ? ( screw next to the motor) would it be beneficial to replace the caoacitors and resustor for newer ones ? ( on a circuit board with all the connections soldered)
  7. Looks like this uses that same principle ,good idea the person that did the base count that in the design.
  8. Great idea...and a good example of KISS ( keep it simple ,stupid) will try it 😃
  9. The 150 and 707 are a classic set up ,would love to have one no doubt about it but budget is very poor ,just trying to put together a decent turntable
  10. The wire is anchored with two p clips but I guess that is part of the problem...
  11. I did that ,had to make a few to match the closest to the gap but when springs move back in position things get ugly. Is there a way to loc the sub chassis in place?
  12. Hello ,looking for some advice of how to wire the tonearm in my Thorens TD 150. Tonearm is a Grave G840 F that comes with the 5 pin connector to the RCA cable , which is pretty thick and unbalces the armboard. Tried to give a bit of slack ( lucky the base has a cutout as the thrad of the tonearm sits pretty deep) Should I use a short 5 pin connector solder to a connection bridge and then to the RCA cable like the original? My second question...How do you scee the armboard to the subchassis ? tried in every position and when I put the turntable back straight the arm
  13. And my result was ,how to say it??? Crappy maybe? After quite a few attempts and thinking the armboard was lined up it finished croocked , the arm location was as stated in the plan but it finished too much forward with the headshell overhanging the plinth . still have to relocate the arm wires as they push the armboard up and after further inspection realized the cover plate is full of little chips. So all in all a bit of a catastrophe...
  14. So been busy at work ,so today I have the chance to dig a bit on the Thorens ,removed the acrylic base ,looks nicely made but looks like it is missing the middle hole for the spindle guess it touches when loosing the springs. Thinking to replace the feet for some stainless steel and rubber I should have somewhere. Plinth looks very poor but I am scared to death to remove the thin cover to get to the screws. Btw is it normal that the cover looks a bit concave?
  15. No Idea but the center pivot is thicker than the normal ones I've seen ( a bit dusty but this is the one I am going to use)
×
×
  • Create New...