Jump to content


Full Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

188 Good

About Mungbean66

  • Rank
    250+ Post Club
  • Birthday 05/08/1984

Profile Fields

  • Location
    Canberra ACT
  • Country

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I'll just add my short and sweet bit here. Stick to a PC. KB and Mouse is far better then a console and may encourage your son to mess about on a PC. This may help him later in life when he wants to get a job or potentially work in an IT related field. Have a budget that you want to stick to. A $1000 PC is going to be much slower then a $1500 PC but the cheaper PC is still going to be great at 1080p gaming. Your main factor in a game like fortnite should be maximum framerate at 1080p or 1440p (monitor dependant). Try and get a 100Hz minimum monitor. I use a Kogan 29 inch ultrawide which is 100Hz but a 24inch or 27inch would be sufficient and quite cheap these days. Also have a look at whirlpool.net.au for builds people are doing now. Great community wwith more of a focus on IT related stuff. Lastly, I would suggest a AMD 3600 build with a cheap B450 Motherboard and the best GPU you can afford. Good luck and feel free to PM me if you want any advice.
  2. Use a decent paste. It'll last years under a heatsink and have much better thermal conductivity. I would only suggest this if you were expecting to be removing the CPU cooler often.
  3. Even mild overclocking with a 3600 is fine with the stock cooler. Get a Noctua if you feel you might upgrade later or you want to be comfortable knowing your CPU will never overheat. This is from someone with a D15. Btw Luc, your PC is remarkably close to my build. Great minds think a like and all that
  4. 70 is actually quite cool. They can run near 100 degrees and be fine. It just means the fan will get louder. I have the 5700XT Nitro and it's fantastic. The Mech OC will be fine and offer the same performance. Well worth the extra money Luc.
  5. Hey Luc, I'm not sure which card you ended up picking but if it has to be the 1660ti, you should get the 1660 Super instead. The 1660S is a newer card and is only a few percent slower for almost 25% less. See here for what I mean: Personally I would get a 5600XT as it is very close to the 2060 Super in performance just without the ray tracing support (which at 2060 levels is only useful for Minecraft). It is also cheaper than the 1660ti. Only if your a fan boi would you choose the 1660ti over the 5600XT. However the savings for the 1660S make sense if you don't want to spend the extra $70-100. See here: I hope that helps mate.
  6. Thanks for the update Andrew. Happy you got it sorted. The constant clicking would have sent me mad.
  7. A monitor will accept any source a TV does. Depending on the resolution it may look strange but it should work as long as you don't exceed the native resolution of the screen.
  8. Great to hear it's helped someone already. Still trying to figure out what will work best for me.
  9. Further information: Schiit Saga for $450 including delivery. This is an original Schiit Saga. I have used this for around 2 years now and had no issues what so ever. It still looks fantastic with only a few faint blemishes on the remote. I have included the LISST Tube (solid state tube) which has to be ordered from the US and cost around $100. It seems they no longer sell these but this essentially gives the Saga a solid state gain stage. I will also include the original NOS 6SN7 Russian tube which has probably 500hrs on it. I will also include an Australian made Radiotron 6SN7 which has maybe 200hrs on it. If your interested in a fantastic PRE, this is it. It is as good as a Magdrigal Proceed PRE I have with the added bonus of some tube loviness and will stand up to PREs multiple times it's price. It has a unity gain mode that just uses the relay controlled volume section of the PRE and a gain mode that uses tube section once engaged. Due to the relay attenuated volume control this was also as clean as the LDR volume control PRE one of my mates purchased from a well known business here. It was measured over at audiosciencereview and was well received and commeded for its ability as a preamp. See here: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/review-and-measurements-of-schiit-saga-tube-pre-amp.6520/ Feel free to ask any questions you have and I will get back to you when I can. Happy for Canberra natives to pick up with a small discount due to saving on postage. Photos:
  10. Look like a cracking little project. Keen to see what they end up looking like and your thoughts on how they sound.
  11. Maybe, I've never seen anything like this personally. Not to mention it would be a poor design using a relay which will fail quickly if switching all the time. In saying that I believe designs like this would exist but in a new intergrated, you'd hope not. It's probably best the OP contact Rotel directly to see if this is the case.
  12. Is the unit still under warranty? If so I would have this looked at. If it was used, I would ask the user to at the least, help cover the repair. If it was just the sub playing up, it could have been the Mac. With all digital inputs causing the issue, then it seems like a fault.
  13. Is this just with the Mac or is this also with other sources. I would also try it with a TV using optical to narrow down if it happens with multiple sources.
  14. I've heard systems that cost multiples of what I earn in a year, twice in my lifetime. My mates Spendors and his comparatively modest front end is just as good. They go loud when needed and have detail and punch in spades. Tone is absolutely spot on.
  • Classifieds Statistics

    Currently Active Ads

    Total Sales (Since 2018)

    Total Sales Value (Last 14 Days)

    Total Ads Value (Since March 2020)
  • Create New...