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About cdave

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  1. ...yes, that's why I posted Initially I left the Gold on, as per instructions, however it sounded much better wiping it off as the final step. https://www.stereo.net.au/forums/topic/87083-deoxit-big-mistake-by-me/
  2. The instructions don't say to, but I agree with others posts, thoroughly wiping off the Gold (2nd step liquid) appears to get better results.
  3. My preference is to support Australian manufacturers and ideally, try before I buy. Geoff from Aurealis Audio was very helpful and sent me a range of his IC's to try. I bought the ones that sounded best in my system.
  4. Solver Senic flat black marks easily but is very black on the front wall around the screen. On the ceiling with a ceiling mounted projector, it looks more dark grey; perhaps a more textured paint would work better here? If you can get samples painted onto boards to hold against the different surfaces under the same lighting conditions you watch movies, you can decide which works best. I wouldn't be surprised if you end up with different paints for the front wall and the ceiling?
  5. I'd 2nd Eltech's suggestion. See if you can borrow a USB to coax converter or some sort of digital to digital processor.
  6. cdave

    5 Way Active Speaker build....

    Thanks Dave, it was the directivity I was thinking about given the number of drivers and the (large) vertical distances between them. Reflecting on my experience with d'appolito speakers. I found that the more accurately they were setup vertically, in both fore aft and sideways, the better they sounded. I speculated that this best time aligned the upper to lower driver pairs with both the listener position and the room surfaces. Going back to the OP's design, even though the pairs are going to be digitally time aligned, I'm not sure if there would be time alignment issues between the individual drivers of the pairs, given the large spacing? And if there is, can that be addressed in the design such as minimising driver distance separation?
  7. cdave

    5 Way Active Speaker build....

    That's my understanding. You could angle the drivers to face the listening position?
  8. If I remember rightly from research over 10 years ago?! 1 thick glass out performed 2 thin pieces of glass. Double glazing with 1 thick and 1 thinner performed best. The frame material / design was also a factor. Costs may have changed, but back then the thick glass option was significantly cheaper than double glazing for 2 small windows. We considered gyprocking and insulating over the windows and I suspect it would be more effective than money spent on window upgrades. I think an insulated window plug could be made to perform very well; possibly better than expensive windows?
  9. cdave

    5 Way Active Speaker build....

    Scratch that. Just remembered the multi amp and DSP so digital time alignment.
  10. cdave

    5 Way Active Speaker build....

    Have you considered stepping the baffle for time alignment?
  11. Yes thicker glass, no thermal breaks , no plugs in a dedicated cinema room. There are only 2 small windows which are under eaves and have heavy light blocking curtains. So no thermal concerns and the noise is quite well contained. I have considered making up some light plugs out of cardboard or foam. We mostly mostly use the cinema room at night and the light blocking curtains work well, so never got around to it. Good luck with your room.
  12. "With the window i was going to get a roller shutter on it and just have it double glazed and put some accoustic foam on the inside." When I did my room I read somewhere that thicker glass was more effective in blocking sound transmission than double glazing. It was worked out cheaper and if you are plugging the window with insulation, the additional cost may not be warranted?
  13. Hi Dave, I'll take one of the 75cm. Postage back to Adelaide