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About btd

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  1. I have had one for a couple of years. Added some leads to test bits that would not fit.
  2. After 15 years of having this sitting in the shed and armed with the little audio knowledge I have (which makes me more dangerous) I thought I would have a go at this 1954 Ferris Super Seven car radio. I cannot believe I found the schematic, parts list and valve specs on the net. First power up brought on an undy change. No smoke but the vibrator was making a hell of a noise. Read up on these. Stripped, cleaned the points, reset the rubber cap and reinstalled. All good. Second power up showed 6 and 12 volts where they should be but no high voltage. Finally followed the advice I had read on the net. Replace all paper caps. A walk down to Jaycar (not sure if its a good or bad thing yet have a shop so close) and I had most replacements in hand. Not all are exact values but I can only go with what they had. So in they went. Through good luck more than good management it actually works. I was stunned. I replaced the screwdriver antenna with a slightly better one and I am getting 6 or so AM channels. There is still some background static and I don`t fully understand how to tune the IF transformers and some coils but for now its sounding pretty good. On one of the car forums I visit a gentleman fitted a Bluetooth receiver to his 50`s valve radio so I followed his led and did the same. Like the caps in the radio there is some very suspect wiring and switching but I have it working. It probably took me longer to figure out how to get the Bluetooth on the phone to work than anything else. To me a phone is a phone. So in the next couple of days its another walk to the shops for a box and a better switch and will tidy it all up a bit. Apart from a Altronic`s valve pre amp kit I have had little to do with valves. It has been a steep learning curve with a lot of head (and a$$) scratching combined with the joy of listening to these old and new parts working together. Tony
  3. Regardless of how invented, how copied and all the patents, he with the best lawyers wins. Edison proved that with the light bulb.
  4. I was going to suggest Araldite but I just had a look at what it costs now for some stupid little tubes. I can remember when my father use to buy that stuff in the tins.
  5. PVA glue and sawdust makes a great gap filler.
  6. I have had the same unit for a couple of years now. It has lasted well and works fine. From memory the leads may have been a bit stiff to begin with but are quite flexible now.
  7. The fine line (or is that blurry line) between hoarding and collecting can, depending on which side of the fence you are on ( or sitting on) be seen in different ways. A bit like audio. I have only been into it for 6 or 7 years but the one thing I have learned is everyone hears and see`s things differently. It`s all fun though. Tony
  8. Nelson Pass B1.2, BA3 There is a B1 in the ACA I built. Altronics (I think Silicon Chip) tube with a P06 copy and a Chines DAC others Tony
  9. DIY amps, Aleph, J, Mini, ACA. LM3886 dual mono there is a LM1875 under my little work bench for testing things with. SS in use Technics SE9060 Rotel RB1070 on the shelf Adcom GFA555 series 1 Nad 2600 PE Kenwood Basic M2A Tony
  10. About 5 years ago I thought I had gone over the top putting some shelves in the spare room to store the unused stuff. Then, neat tidy and lots of space. Now, well.....
  11. Like anything audio if you ask 20 people the same question you are likely to get 25 different answers. I have built a Aleph J(25w), Aleph mini(10w) and an ACA(5w). I like all of them but to me the J is the best. I have an Aleph 5 half built but need more funds to finish. The Pass Labs forum at the DIY Audio site makes for some interesting reading. https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/index.php
  12. My markers are not as good as yours. Undo the yellow screw and remove the arm. Undo the green screw and the lifter unit should come out the bottom. You might have to undo the locking screw that allows the black horizontal plate up and down. Where the blue line goes to there should be a retaining nut or screw. If you undo that then lift arm and shaft should come out. You might have to lift the plunger a little (were the yellow screw came from) as you move the handle and shaft back and forth a bit to remove it. If I am right the plunger should then come out the bottom. Watch out as there might be a light spring in there. Some just work on gravity but you never know. Will have to see how it looks before we move on.
  13. Good to see there are a few of us about. It would be good to know where the 67 was made. My 85S is Yamaha (or Nippon Gakki) though the Yamaha version does not have the lift arm the 85S has.
  14. Put some part numbers in google. They were an RS product now discontinued. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/vice-jaws-clamping-fingers/0549606/
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