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kttiong

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About kttiong

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    Melbourne
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    Australia

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  1. I have acquired 2 Byers 16”, 1 Byer 12”, 1 Commonwealth 12”, 1 garrard 301, 1 Technics SP 10 Mkii, 3 Lencos L75/78 ( 1 modded) i tried to compare them over the years installed with different arms and various brand of cartridges. By doing these, i have often upgraded or resetted each individual player trying to outperform the others.It was so much fun and at the same time improving the sound of the tables as i went along until i realised that all the above turntables are indeed grade A tables. Out of all the tables above, I personally prefer Byer 16”.
  2. A 2 poles Silex . Bronze colour
  3. The Byers and other early vintage players especially those fitted with huge motors bound to be very sensitive to rumble due to the enormous power the huge motors deliver. However, the Byers can be played to avoid rumble effect or to a very low level without affecting its performance by using a “ stand alone” tonearm as shown in the photo. Also I believe a good plinth will eliminate the rumble effect effectively. To me , the vintage players with huge motors are preferred as it can delivered a sound to another level. Many reckoned Thomas Schick refurbished the Byer 16 and used it successfully in the Munich high end show 2012 . See photo. The rumble could also be due to the bad rubber fitted around the platter. All 3 of my Byers played well with no rumble issue and they produce wonderful sound much better than my Garrard 301 IMHO.
  4. Wow! Getting really excited about the potential of a Silex . Will certainly spend more time in setting up and trying out my Silex. Hope it kills my Byers ! Anyway, any one with knowledge as to the sound quality of a two poles vs 4 poles Silex motors?
  5. Sorry typo error CE ( commonwealth )
  6. Thanks Onslo! Now I can understand better how you built the “platform “ for the SME. It is definitely a bit of work to machine one. The reason why I was interested is because I still couldn’t figure out what is the best way or rather say a nice way to sit the arm for my Silex . I have everything you have shown except the “ platform” where sme sits. Great idea! Also, I have told my mate once that I felt Silex sounds better than my Garrard 301. [emoji848]But I couldn’t be so sure and at the time I believed it was just my own opinion. I told him anyway. You are probably the first one to feel that it sounds better than a CS. I don’t doubt that as Silex can show great potential to kill a lot of vintage players. It is all depended on how you set it up and the right combo ! As I don’t own a CS which I am drooling for it, I have three Byers instead. It would be a good shoot out if all of these players are put into good plinths . May be I can tell you in the near future how Silex compares to a Byer ya. Thanks for your opinion and contribution towards the Silex .[emoji122][emoji122][emoji122][emoji122]Cheers kttiong
  7. Hi very nice indeed! Just asking whether you will share the exact material / components used to mount your SME arm. Not too long ago, I used to own 7 units of Silexes including a 2 poles, bronze colour one. Love them all. Since then I have sold 3 and butchered a Not-so-good one. I moved on to collect the Byers and bought a 12” and 2 nos of 16”. Others also include Garrard and Lencos. The most exciting part of these acquisitions is to own a Byer 16” with S/N 0001 bought from another member of this forum. Thanks to the seller again. There are lots of work to do with all these vintage players collected. Hence, I have not come to the stage when to look into Silex properly yet . Of course, my final goal is to build a good plinth. Hence the question asked above. i have most of the Silexes serviced myself and may be it is time come to build a good plinth. Not too long ago, including my audio die - hard friend😜, we both acquired a big piece of slate and he was looking into cutting it for the plinths. i am really excited to hear that Silex can be as good or even better than a CE. Is anyone from the forum tried CE 16” vs Byer 16”.Any opinion is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  8. Problem solved! Bad disc. All good now.
  9. Hi have u solved the problem? I have the same setup as yours except I have a sme 3012 with the same Ortofon headshell. I installed my brand new 103 and it is having a distorted high atm. Could it be the Denon SUT? Or arm alignment problem? Do let me know if you have solved the problem .many thanks
  10. Oh! Cleaning also involves using alcohol solution ya... enjoy servicing, it’s absolute pain yet fun[emoji37][emoji16]?
  11. Hi big blue It’s me back again. As for lubrication, I have used those shown in the photo. I have found them good for my purpose The engine cleaner, foamy type, is good to clean the metal surface. It came out brilliant on mine. The grease is for all moveable parts The engine oil I used it to lubricate the shafts and bearing balls. Motor servicing - When you have unscrewed the bottom screwing cap ( don’t lose any ball bearing inside please) and the four bolts and nuts of the motor, gently twist and pull open up the top motor cap and bottom motor cap to expose inside. Clean the rotor and lubricate the shaft with motor oil. Easy job . Don’t forget to lubricate the bearing balls and any movable parts) . The pulley can be unscrewed open using plier if too tight.( if no locking screw presence). Make sure don’t scratch the pulley and shaft Putting it back all together could be a little pain as you must make sure the rotor is turning as freely as possible before locking the 4 bolts and nuts. You can hear how the motor is running after locking and also you can adjust the running noise to the very minimal by adjusting the bottom screw while releasing the bottom screwing cap ( not the bottom motor cap).. once you have achieved the optimal setting ( minimum noise while motor is running ), lock the bottom screwing cap and tighten it by hand Above was my experience and not necessary the right way. Servicing with caution and diligent is required. DO Not rush as these tables are so precious. Spare parts??? Almost NIL.... As for the noise/ hum reduction issue and if you want to enjoy the table before you come out with a proper plinth , a temporary one like the photo below and using a stand alone arm will hear no hum at all ( make sure you servicing your table well )
  12. Will write more this evening. Working at the moment. Thanks for all info given. Appreciate all. Cheers
  13. The hum / noise issue is pretty sure no matter what we do ( if the plinth is not thick enough , wrong material or we are trying to place anti vibration material in between) it will almost certainly feel the noise from the motor. Hence, correct material and thick ness has to be perfected. I’m in the process of trying out. If I have any luck in the future, I will post it. Anybody out there having the experience ? Really appreciate for the advice if you will. I have done the lubrication to the motors ( 3 Byers) myself and I have ordered one identical capacitor from NZ. All work out fine and quiet. While servicing the motor, all cautions need to be observed ( stupid suggestion[emoji16] really , everyone knows).
  14. That’s S/N 1 on display ( photo ). It is fully working but the plinth is only good for display purposes only . The plinth is a piece of solid wood approximately 2 inches thickness. [emoji37]Not Good Enough! When I installed a SME 3012 arm on it, it hums due to the noise from the motor. Some audiophiles suggested it has to be at least 10” or more in thickness. So that will be my next project. Anyway , I have also acquired a piece of slate material and according to my mate Rob , it will be good for the purpose. Will see. Commonwealth 16”. You are a lucky man Big Blue!. Drooling ! Well! As for the arm, it definitely has to be a 12” arm . I am happy with SME 3012. But if you can an Ortofon 12” with it’s cartridge , you are on top. Yeah !
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