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Everything posted by Javs

  1. You must not be aware, but the yellowing is a DI bug, which is affecting the gamma manipulation only on those models, its a confirmed real bug, and supposedly its source is hardware related and cant really be fixed... JVC Is not dimming the lamp at all, they are using a DI like always.
  2. Wasnt me, I linked to the actual lamp, its not aftermarket at all, the housing apparently costs about 800 dollars after you do the conversion, for this model, or buy the real lamp and replace it yourself
  3. Did you click the link, its the original bulb. Ushio is the brand you want. Its actually impossible for them to even know you changed the bulb in the housing since the replacement is identical. So apart from that bulb you are being charged hundreds of dollars for the plastic housing, which is a completely inert piece of plastic by the way.
  4. It's a couple screws. Can't be that hard. Just wear gloves
  5. Or get one of the original bulbs (or several) from here, for 122 Euro. And replace the bulb inside the housing yourself. Only 6 Euro shipping. https://www.beamer-parts.eu/projector-lamp/ushio/ushio-nsha250jk/
  6. You must be heaps of fun at parties! Every post from you is just nihilist drivel.
  7. I am going to be upgrading to pretty much the best one with 8 zones, ESP Platinum. I spent quite a bit of time on the Actron Air website and I want the full beans! We will be installing solar too so the electricity wont be much of an issue. The one is comes with by default with the package only has 2 zones Model SRA233 . But its a very big powerful unit still, ive seen it in person. But I need more zones, and want the more efficient unit.
  8. I think I will be trying extra hard to have them put in a return AC line in the room.
  9. Interesting read. Though as for when the theatre is not in use. I still dont see why I need something running in there 24x7, door ajar or open should be enough, plus when the AC in the house is on in that zone, it will also put air in there. This is not really a discussion about weather I plan to exchange air or not, thats given, I will be exchanging air. Reading your link looks like I should be aiming for 6 times an hour. That means it will take 10 minutes to have completely new air in there. Not bad at all. Would you mind linking me to the air exhanger system you mentioned? - EDIT - I see you posted the link earlier already, thanks.
  10. I'm not sure if you genuinely mean 24/7, but if so that's a waste of power. I would only need something operating when it's in use. Door will probably be open when not in use. I don't like closing up my whole house unless I'm in the room and want privacy. It could be as simple as a vent fan set up to a relay linked to the AC gear, not sure yet. 4-5 air exchanges per hour is heaps. The exhaust vent would not be sealed either really. Sound isolated, yes, but air will be able to move through it, if it were truly sealed it wouldn't function.
  11. Hey Mike. Not really keen on a minisplit hey, the AC we are installing into the house is pretty hectic, really don't want to double dip on that. There is no problem getting a supply there, I will just have to figure out the return, or a way to get old air out, the AC will always be on when we are in there. I'll have a think about it.
  12. Yeah they have to drywall it. Though I'm going to try and make sure they don't mud and tape it. If I can see the screw holes it should be a bit easier
  13. Ok so the volume builder just got back to me. It's now certain they can't do any of the soundproofing I want during the house construction, I'm going to have to have them drywall the room with one layer and handover the house like that, and then I will need to rip it down and start over. Hmm, that's not really a big deal when I sit there and think about it, surely a couple grand wasted there, but reading some of the theatres on this forum I can see that to really do it right I kinda need total oversight. Which I suppose is saving me from potential headache by them doing it wrong in the first place. Also they are not keen on the AC return since the theatre is downstairs and the house return is upstairs, so will probably have to sort something else there too, perhaps I can draw in fresh air from adjoining room, the study, or the hallway for eg. First and foremost this is our first house, so priority one is actually getting the house built in the first place, so I gotta work with what I've got. I don't really have another 200 grand to go with a custom house builder to get the same sized house. All good, moving on!
  14. This one looks good for me. https://www.4cabling.com.au/42ru-600mm-wide-x-800mm-deep-server-rack.html
  15. The dead vent helps stop sound traveling back through the AC system and exiting into every other room in the house. I will need to do something to address that.
  16. Those of you who have done clip and channel rooms.... Do you remember the specs on the furring channels used? Namely the channel height. I found these 237 clips from Rondo, which are identical to IB1 clips from overseas. Only $0.90c each. They perform very nearly as good as Whisper clips all said and done, and they are about 8x cheaper per clip... Deep in the documentation from Rondo they say these can be used for clip and channel in walls for acoustic purposes, and studying the images, they appear to be totally identical to the overseas version of the IB1. IB-1 Testing vs Whisper Clips and others. Thats without Green Glue mind you, this is with Green Glue: Now this clip can use either the Rondo 308 or 129 furring channel. The 308 is only 16mm high, and the 129 is 26mm high. In the US, they tell you to use 22mm high furring channel, which is 25 guage. Also, does anybody know what gauge these furring channels are? For space concerns, I wouldn mind using the 16mm channel, but if its quite a bit less effective than the 26mm (129) then obviously I would use that. Thoughts? The clip The US 237 Clip which is actually the reccomended by the AVS guys and Soundproofingcompany.com for the fact that its performance/cost ratio is excellent. The AU Furring specs. https://www.networkbuilding.com.au/product_direct-fixing-clips_237-clip-anchor-furring-channel-direct-fix-to-concrete_1171.html https://www.networkbuilding.com.au/product_furring-channel-and-battens_308-furring-channel-16mm-6000mm_1147.html https://www.networkbuilding.com.au/product_furring-channel-and-battens_129-furring-channel-28mm-3600mm_1136.html The STWC Clip is 8x the price as the 237... And identical to the RSIC Clip in the above testing plots. Not worth 8x the price... https://www.networkbuilding.com.au/product_sound-isolation-products_stwc-wall-and-ceiling-sound-isolation-assy-for-fc-screw-fix_4631.html
  17. I still love the image my X9500 throws... Really hard to beat honestly. It was a notable step up over the X7000 it replaced. The lens in it is phenomenal.
  18. Yeah those shots are hard, I had trouble photographing it fairly to show how low the BenQ contrast was to my JVC, the problem with those photographs is the camera only has so much dynamic range, so when you capture the black floor its so close to the real black floor of the camera, then comparing something with worse contrast looks heaps worse. I could not photograph the dynamic 400k:1 contrast on my JVC vs the BenQ. If I did it fairly, which is to say I DON'T clip the black in the camera, it looks like this! AND THIS WAS WITH AN ND FILTER ON THE BENQ. I think its safe to say Arrows images cant begin to capture what that Christie is doing, if you note when he posted that, I cam back asking why the RGB values in his photos equalled 0/0/0 on the black areas, that means he was actually clipping the black floor when he took the photo. I could do that to the BenQ and make it look the same. Thats why only comparative photos taken at the same time, same camera, same settings are the only way to show a comparative difference.
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