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About Javs

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  1. Yep you need to treat that back wall. Bingo. There is 95% of your problem. Hang a curtain or paint the same black as your screen area. The difference will be huge. You seem to have a nice inset screen area so the white ceiling past where it's currently treated will make far less of a difference than your rear wall, so I would treat that wall fast.
  2. Could you take a pic facing the rear, not of your screen, stand at your screen and photograph the other way.
  3. It's not stray light from the projector it's pure screen reflection onto a surface which then radiates back onto the screen again and washes it out. Do this. Get a torch, go stand in front of your seat in the theatre facing the back wall. Shine the torch on the rear wall and various locations, then look back at your screen while still being torch on the rear wall and watch it light up like a Christmas tree. You kill those reflections you will be getting the most out of your projector. And this is not just JVC, this is any projector. Most people probably only have an in room ANSI contrast response of about 70:1. Mine is about 250:1 and I still think there is a long way to go.
  4. Can you show us a picture of the back wall in your theatre please? What size and gain is the screen you are using? -15 still looks quite bright. But the Allied shot is the tell tale sign for me of another larger issue you have. Looks to me like you have a MUCH brighter projector now than you used to, and your room is totally untreated past 2ft from the screen? Is that correct? Your black levels are drastically changing based on the APL level of the content which tells me your room is polluting the projectors black floor. This is why I have a velvet tent in my room. This is not my images, but I have literally identical velvet tent system as this, and this is what it does to the image when I open and close it. Also note that in the closed position, they STILL have velvet about 2ft into the room. The ceiling and back wall is horrible for this. Looks to me like you need to treat your room more.
  5. No its on the first page but you have to go into the top sub menu to see it. Are you looking at HDR? I never posted SDR settings far as I can recall, I think its a good idea to get normal SDR 1080p sources looking good before tackling HDR. If you are looking at HDR, then there are a few variables there.
  6. Also try changing to empty HDMI input 2 for eg, if you are using 1. Do that and see what the projectors no input screen looks like. You would need to change the no input screen from blue to black in the menu, which you should probably do anyway... Are you viewing with the iris completely open?
  7. Here is a couple raw full frame pics of my projector, if you look close near the bottom you will see my subwoofers etc... its pretty well representative of the black bars when there is bright content on the screen... so long as your room is treated to not bounce light back to the screen.
  8. On the 2nd JVC Menu page you should see something like HDMI level, Standard, Expanded Auto etc... It will be at the very top or near the very top. Make sure you are in Standard or Auto, toggle the options there, you may see the black floor suddenly go way darker, if you do, then you had that set wrong, or the JVC wasnt sure what signal it was getting and defaulted to the wrong HDMI Range. If you see the black floor get worse there, than that setting was already correct, leave as is. Also you can hit the HIDE button on the remote, that should show you the true black floor of the projector. Just a troubleshooting tip. Also check your BRIGHTNESS settings... make sure its at zero. Usually any more than +1 or so on brightness will begin to significantly lift the black floor of the projector.
  9. Oppo 203 HDR Tone Mapping.

    haha so apt.
  10. That's definitely the right way to do it...
  11. So you're saying you have been stuck in analysis paralysis since the 90's?? Dude. Just get something and sit back and enjoy life.
  12. Oppo 203 HDR Tone Mapping.

    You end up with a colour gamut much smaller than p3 right now, it's not working with highlights properly it turns them white. Its no good right now. With a bit of work it will get better which is what we are hoping to do. But it's tough to get things across to madshi at times. I've given up for now, I provided a lot of solid photos and feedback on an avs thread perhaps woofer can link since I'm out right now. HDR curves look way better on my JVC anyway. And the saturation in highlights i.e. explosions, has correct colour on my Samsung uhd tv and my JVC when I use real HDR.
  13. When you manually set the iris they both still do move together. The one you can actually see is manually controlled and also will move when its in dynamic mode, the inner most iris which you cant see, also moves manually but that will be static depending on where the iris was set in manual mode before you engage the DI mode. Either that or they will still both move when the DI is active. "With every click, the front iris closes one click and with every 2 clicks the rear iris moves. When set to Auto 1 or Auto 2, the rear iris stays fixed wherever you have the numerical setting but the front iris still functions dynamically"
  14. Yes, closing down the iris is how the JVC 9900 can natively go from 40k to 160k:1 and this is even before you turn on the DI, when you do, it will go up to nearly 400,000:1 The Sony 360 will do more like 16k-19k:1, and then with the DI to maybe 60-70k:1 (they have a MUCH lower dynamic multiplier real world than JVC) depending on iris setting, much less. The JVC 7/9 series has a 2nd iris which you cant see well inside the light path, when you close down the iris both of these work together to drastically increase the contrast ratio as the light output lowers. The common scenario for a 7 or 9 series at the throw I know you are going to put it, you would likely be watching SDR in low lamp -8 or -10 on the iris to get 16fl peak white, that will get you between 60 and 80k:1 most likely. The Sony in the same spot would be around 17k:1 and the Sony 760 in the same spot due to the fact you would need to reduce the laser power would likely only be around 15k:1. The Sony actually loses contrast when you turn down the laser output.
  15. The 760 calibrated is about 2-3fl brighter than a JVC 9900. It's not as bright as you think. It does not put out far more light. Let's be real. Both are around 1700-1800 lumens calibrated.