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About Midget

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  1. So I just did a few hour comparison of my McChanson 300b vs my Line Magnetic 300b. What struck me was how much louder the McChanson was. Level matching my source was around 40% for the McChanson and 60% for the LM with both amps dials around 95% to max.
  2. From both your responses it sounds like the safest thing for me to do is to try doing the majority of smoothing with cutting and doing minimal boosting as a starting point. I could lower the overall target curve to achieve this and still maintain a tilted frequency response that favours a little bass tilt. However, this would affect the overall SPL ability of the whole system, but I could see if the max volumes achieved is good enough for my needs. If not, I could bring the overall target curve a bit higher and try again knowing that each time I do this I am boosting more of the bass frequenci
  3. Thank you everyone for the additional info. This is very helpful. A few comments below: Satanica would you say this is an advisable max? Or just what your system required? Does this mean speakers with a higher power capability are better for the task? I take it they are designed to handle some heavy current and driven hard if they say they can handle 300 watts for example. Thanks Betty Boop your caution is noted and I will be careful with my equipment. This leads me back to one of my original questions which I am hoping someone
  4. No worries Snoop I will wait to see if anyone else has advice, however the articles you referenced clearly discuss bass boosting and the inadequacies of typical room treatment for these lower frequencies. I am just trying to understand what options I have if the other methods for correction are not an option, and how to safely do it. (I have a sub with built in DSP room correction but I do not want to use it due to space constraints). Of course my goal is to get even bass as previously stated, but also to correct for bass roll off which dips below that even frequency response targ
  5. Thanks @Snoopy8 I have read both articles and it sounds like I was on the right track. It did fill in the blanks and also confirmed some of my preconceived thoughts. I'll summarise to see if I understood it correctly and post up a few follow up questions that I am still curious about. Boosting bass frequencies puts stress on the both the power amp and the speaker Evening out the response is more safely handled by decreasing the spikes Increasing big divots can not be corrected by boosting as it is more about room interactions and speaker placement R
  6. So DSP can not increase the natural roll off of a speaker? I thought that was one of the things that separated non active and active versions of the same speaker design? Where does the distortion come from? The preamp that is adding the boost, the power amp, or the speaker driver? In regards to the uneven bass, I thought the speaker in the corner might have too much bass. I already have the port plugged but thought there might be a way to reduce bass using DSP to make it more even. Thanks for the link Snoop, I'll look into it!
  7. Newb questions about MiniDSP SHD with Dirac Live to improve the sound in my living room as I am considering getting one. One speaker is kind of stuck in the corner so I would like to even out the bass response , plus extract any additional bass from the mini floorstanders that I am using as my subwoofer is currently out of the system due to space constraints. 1. Does it require a substantially powerful power amp to boost the bass frequencies, or does the strain happen in the pre amp side of the path? I currently have a Purifi which is 425w at 4ohms. 2. Is there a limit
  8. I've seen custom designs of his come up now and then. These are cases sourced privately before he builds. You could make whatever you like I suppose, but he would have to be comfortable with the design and the technicality around it. I proposed a certain case design but it was getting a little tricky and he thought it might just be too much for him. It might have been the thickness of the metal I can't remember. I appreciated his honesty. Oh, I have to say I must have around 300 emails back and forth with Eric. He's a great guy to deal with and it was a great experience having my first c
  9. The front plate is a sort of deep copper tone. I have had it since 2015 and you might find my review and initial impressions in the review section. This one is with the interstage transformers and a few other upgrades. I have tried a lot of amps since this one, but I keep coming back to it, because it just sounds so good. I was considering putting it up for sale, hence this recent photo, but got cold feet because I thought I might miss it too much. I have a Line Magnetic 300b now as well, which sounds equally as nice. This is a complement to Eric and his amp design. A little trick for get
  10. Further information: Unit would have under 100 hours of total use by previous original owner and none by myself. Great for creating a warmer sound. iTube uses the General Electric 5670 tube. Can be used as: -An analog preamplifier with selectable gain. - A class A tube buffer amp. - A Digital Antidote Plus® which "provides the appropriate phase correction in the time domain to remove the harsh, 'ringing' digital sound which causes listener fatigue" based on the original Digital Antidote patented by Anthony Taddeo in the 80s - 3D Hologr
  11. I’ve seen these in the flesh and they are absolutely beautiful well made speakers. Three way designs with this kind of finish at this price are hard to come by.
  12. Steve Huff talks to dead Bollywood stars through some whacky radio transmitter. I’d take anything he says with a grain of salt.
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