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srey

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About srey

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  • Birthday 01/01/1970

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    Sydney
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    Australia

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  1. Cooling setup for AVR

    How hot? Ah... very. [emoji53] Like 20°+ over ambient. Thats not so hot that the case is too hot to touch, but you can feel it's very warm. If I'd had another 50mm clearance above the unit I would probably have run the T9 top exhaust box, with a pair of the USB fans drawing the air out the back of the cab. I'd hope that setup would be basically silent on setting 1, and hopefully keep things cool enough. With the T8 and the S7 pair in the current setup, setting 1 seems to do the trick much of the time, and I'm hoping the second power level will take care of it on warmer evenings.
  2. Cooling setup for AVR

    As I mentioned above, my AC Infinity gear arrived from Amazon, so I thought I should post my thoughts here in case somene else is looking for some info sometime. I should preface all this by saying that I sit pretty close to my receiver (like 7ft from ear to AVR). Due to the limited headroom above my AVR, the guys at AC Infinity suggested that their top venting cooler box wouldn't be a good choice, and I should go with a rear vent option. Bit of a bummer as blowers are always going to be louder for the same airflow than a fan, but I heeded the advice and ordered the T8 cooler box, plus the S7 USB dual 120mm fans to piggyback off the box and help move the hot air up from the back of the AV cabinet. The twin 120mm USB fans arrived first, so over I set them up to replace the DIY antec fans I had been running in the interim. Plugged them into the USB port on the back of my Denon and fired the thing up. They've got three speed settings and for me were inaudible on low, almost inaudible on medium, and could be heard over quiet content on high. Cooling wise they did a similar job on medium setting to my hacked DIY setup: seemed to be able to keep the AVR running within about 10-12° of ambient in the room. At first it had me thinking "****, maybe I should have just saved the money and just got these, they'll probably do the job fine". That was until I turned my setup off and found the fans still running afterwards, apparently my receiver supplied power to the USB port even in standby! So a couple of days later the T8 box showed up and I could give it a run. It's a nice enough looking bit of kit and easy enough to understand the setup instructions. The real reason I went with the T8 was because I needed something competely automatic. Even if I could train myself to turn the cooling on/off with the AVR, the other half is another story: if it doesn't come on when she presses "watch stuff" on the remote, it's not getting turned on. Unfortunately the T8 isn't what you could call "silent". I figured the noise claims in the spec sheet (24db) were probably a bit optimistic, but in the end I'd only call the unit "silent" in my setup when it's running on level 1 (out of 6). Out of the box level 2 was audible in silent/super quiet scenes, and level 3 was starting to become a constant hum over quiet content. On the upside though, the thing cools very well. It pretty much keeps pace with the other fan setups on it's lowest setting, and has been able to comfortably keep things within 8° of ambient when I let it switch to level 2 as required. I tried cranking it to full power for a bit whilst playing some tunes and although it starts to sounds like a tornado, it brought the temps down to 3° above ambient, which is pretty damn impressive given that I don't think the heat sinks inside the AVR will be anything to write home about. Big advantage of this design is that there's no heat on top of the cooler and it can support a bunch of weight. So if your setup requires you to stack components, this is a viable solution for cooling one and ensuring that the heat isn't just pumped into the unit on top. Yesterday I pulled the thing apart to see if some added soundproofing sheet inside mightn't help things. A bit of an improvement was had, so from the seating position I can now use levels 1 and 2 without being distracted, even in quiet scenes. Overall I'm happy enough with the product. I'd certainly like it if it was quieter, but with the setup I have at the moment I guess I'm going to have to accept some limitations for the convenience I'm after. The unboxed fans on top of the unit are definitely going to be quieter, event the T9 box with fans rather than blowers would probably be noticably quieter, but I don't think any of those would do a good enough job of cooling the receiver when things get warm through summer. Hope that helps anyone who's looking for some feedback, any other questions you have, feel free to ask away!
  3. Cooling setup for AVR

    I ordered mine from Amazon. The smaller fan pair shipped separately to the big box cooler I got, but they arrived within 1 working day of each other. Ordered on a Wednesday, first package arrived the Friday of the following week, and the second on the subsequent Monday. So 9 and 12 days respectively. Cost me $195 shipped, whereas the cheapest I could find the same things locally would have been ~$460 plus shipping. I set the gear up last night, will post up my thoughts once I've used it a bit more.
  4. Cooling setup for AVR

    It's a fair point for sure, but on the flipside there's also less chance of the fans pulling hot exhaust air back into the unit through the open vents, rather than drawing in from the lower vents and moving air past the system. Worst case I'll just use the USB fans on top and sell the box unit to someone with a setup suited to it. As for the dust issue , I think exhaust fans will cause just as much dust ingress as a positive pressure fan. At least the big box on top will stop dust from falling down from the top. [emoji14]
  5. Cooling setup for AVR

    I hit up AC infinity for their input on my setup and their response was that the 80mm gap I've got really isn't enough clearance to run the top venting T9 box. So I just ordered the T8 rear blower, as well as the dual 120mm fans. I'll get the T8 blowing air to the rear of the cabinet and then use one or both of the seperate fans to help move the air out and up the back of the cabinet; if one's sufficient there I might use the other to help move air into the AVR vents. Hopefully they do the trick!
  6. Cooling setup for AVR

    First thing I did when I got the cabinet was completely remove the back panel for the centre section that houses the AVR, partly to aid airflow and partly because it's a ***** of a job trying to fit dozens of cables through those stupid little cutouts! Unfortunately no 240V outlet on the receiver though, that would have been perfect. Yeah, they're from AC infinity, same mob who make the big full component cooler I mentioned at the beginning. By all reports seem to be pretty well thought out gear. I've been looking at that too, and it's slim pickings. PCCG have USB to 3pin fan adapter cables, but the challenge is finding a decent size fan that will run at proper speed off 5V, doesn't seem to be a common thing with the PC companies at least. The AC Inifinity ones may be your best option, and pricing isn't too bad through Amazon, it's just the shipping that can kill it. I made some progress myself today. Found a couple of new fans that I'd pulled out that I'd pulled out of my PC case to replace with Noctua PWM ones, as well as some 3 pin extensions. The fans are just cheapy Antecs (thankfully no EMI so far Al!), one 140mm and one 120mm, but they're dual speed with little switches on cables, and were just looking for a use. I swung past jaycar this arvo and picked up a 12V plugpack for $30 (2.5A just in case ), lopped the tip off it, and the female ends off a pair of the 3 pin extensions and soldered them all together. Threw some spare noctua silicon grommets I had floating around through the fans and sat them on top of the denon. The 120mm fan is basically inaudible at either speed setting, but the bigger one moves enough air on hi that I can hear it from the couch so I left it on low. With a hand up close to the gap above the receiver I can feel air moving out into the room, and the space between the top of the AVR and the shelf above it is noticable cooler than before. I've been running the setup for over an hour now and even though the ambient is showing a tad higher than yesterday, the temp on top of the AVR is at 28°, a good 8-10° lower than what I was seeing without the fans. The top of the case is a lot cooler to the touch as well. Very happy that I'm seeing a noticable difference with just a bit of active circulation, really suggest that airflow through the case is the base issue. Only downside with this setup is that I have to manually turn it on, but I think it will just be a temporary solution for the AVR now, I'll likely repurpose this as always-on ventilation for the other compartments in the cabinet which house the PVR and the NAS. For the Denon, I think I'll likely go with a setup from AC Infinity, either the T9 box and maybe one 120mm fan that can run off it and help pull air from above it out the back of the cabinet, or maybe just a couple of the 140mm USB units to run off the rear port of the Denon. I'm keen to know whether I can have the T9 setup to turn on as soon as the AVR does, either with a 12V trigger or otherwise though, as I'm worried a simple themral threshold won't work for me as the apartment can get quite warm itself in summer, and I don't really want the cooler running all day just because the ambient has hit 27°C inside. I did notice though from reading the manual for the T9 cooler that even though it states it can control up to 6 additional fans plugged into its ports, those fans will all share the same program as the T9 itself. That certainly puts pay to my idea of having the T9 cool the AVR as required, and the child fans run all the time for the PVR/NAS. Thanks everyone for your input so far!
  7. Cooling setup for AVR

    Thanks all for the input. The 4520 does have a rear USB port, but it's only rated at 1amp and from what I've found so far most notebook coolers don't push a lot of air (~135m^3/h), and they do seem to push as well, rather than pull from the contact face which is what I think I need. Seems the best option is either a pre-made solution like the AC Infinity setup, or something I rig up myself with a 12V power supply, some kind of remote switching power outlet and some quality PC fans. For anyone who cares, here's how I think things stackup from what I've found so far: AC Infinity T8/9: - 270 m^3/h (rear exit T8) 350m^3/h (top exit T9) - 24 / 21 db (T8/9) - Temperature based fan speed control - Unsure as yet if it can be set to completely shut off when the AVR is off - Can control other fans, but only from AC Infinity's range I believe - Looks pretty schmick - ~$170 shipped from amazon DIY setup: - 12V 2.5A power supply from ebay + 3 x Noctua 120mm FLX fans + remote switching power outlet - 320m^3/h (combined - top exit) - 17.8db (each fan) - Hoping to find a nice IR remote controlled power outlet that I could program to turn on with the Harmony remote I use, no joy yet though. - Should be easy enough to add additional fans as required, since the Noctua's don't draw much current. - Not schmick looking (really Noctua, I get that the tan and brown is part of your identity now but seriously, this stuff is gonna be visible from the lounge!) - Could potentially add a PC fan controller later to get temp based control, but likely to push the price up another ~$50. - $25 + $90 +$?? for a IR switching power adapter Ultimately I'd probably like to have the AVR cooler plus 1 or 2 always-on fans for the other compartments in the cabinet. I'll have a dig around tomorrow since I'm pretty sure I've got some spare PC fans kicking around, and I might get the power supply and run those as a test initially to see how much effect they have. If I end up deciding to go with the AC Infinity anyway I'll just move them to the other compartments and nothing wasted.
  8. Cooling setup for AVR

    Thanks Al, this was the other option I was thinking of; I've always had a good run with Noctua fans in my PC builds. That said, I don't like the idea of running the 12V fans off USB as I doubt they'll hit the RPM they should, so I was thinking along the lines of a 12V power adapter to run something like a 5.25" bay fan controller that could control the fans. In a perfect world it would be a controller with it's own temp probe, and able to run externally without PC software control, but I don't like the chance of finding that. Which leaves me with 2 real issues: how do I make it so that the fans only run when the receiver is on, rather than 24/7, and is the 80mm clearance I have above the receiver room for the fans to exhaust air straight up, rather than blowing it out the back like the AC Infinity block?
  9. Hey guys, looking for any experience you lot might have when it comes to keeping your receivers running at a reasonable temp when space is limited. I'm running a Denon 4520 now which fits in my entertainment unit, but doesn't have much in the way of breathing room (see attached pic). Clearnce is: Top - 80mm Sides - 25-30mm Rear - 200mm to back wall, 80mm between rear of entertainment unit and wall Unfortunately, as we're in a pretty small apartment, space is limited and that isn't going to change anytime soon. Obviously the unit it going to get pretty warm in there, and whilst it hasn't been as big an issue in the cooler weather, on a mid/low 20° day, after driving it pretty hard for a couple of hours, the air in the top of the case is pushing over 33°C so I really want to do something to pull those temps back down. At the moment I'm looking mostly at ready to go solutions, I don't mind a bit of DIY, but being in an apartment now I've had to give up workspace and most of my tools. I've seen people recommend running laptop coolers, but what I'm leaning towards at the moment is a setup from AC infinity. Specifically a Aircom T8 to deal with the AVR, with a few of their seperate 120mm fans run off that unit to help with some of the other components in the cabinet. It'll be a bit exxy at ~$225 for the T8 and 3 other fans shipped from Amazon, but having had an old Onkyo do the HDMI death from too much heat I'm ready to spend a bit to avoid that. Does anyone have any experience with the AC Infinity stuff, or any suggestions on what I should be looking at instead? Shayne.
  10. Aha, a question I can help with! I've got a set of the 8.4s (as part of a matching surround setup) and mine had the hideous silver fronts that I just couldn't live with, so I pulled them apart and painted them. Good news is the only fasteners to remove are the fixing screws for the drivers, then you can remove the fronts. They're glued down with a goopy black...goop, that will stretch out and go everywhere, and WILL get stuck in your carpet for all eternity, so be ready for that; just use a blade or something to cut the strands of goop as you lift the baffle. Also worth noting that unlike the mid and woofer, the tweeter is fixed to the back of the baffle, with just enough wire length to let you lift the baffle and disconnect it before removing the baffle completely. To pry up the baffle I used plastic trim lifter things for a car interior, but you could do it easily with a butter knife if you're careful. With the baffle off you'll have access to the edge of the vinyl and be able to reglue that lifting. Just ask if you've got any other questions about the process! Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk
  11. I have exactly the same set and love it; I missed out on them when they were available new but was lucky enough to find one second hand 12 months ago. Certainly don't see many of them around, and I doubt anyone is going to be dissapointed with it!
  12. ISF Calibration Photos

    Definitely set to 2.2, I am using the low panel setting though, maybe that has something to do with it. I brought the meter back from the office over the weekend and just had another go at the TV. Think I managed to improve on the white balance, although it is still out at 10%, but I took your advice and erred on the side of blue there. Gamma's still a bit bumpy but overall I'm pretty happy with the results. Thanks again for the help!
  13. ISF Calibration Photos

    I had a go at the calibration this arvo and i think it went pretty well. In fact the greyscale wasn't out by much on the factory settings, just a noticable bump in green/blue around 50-80% grey. Gamma was well out though, luminnace a fair bit too low all the way from 10% to 80%. Actually that's probably the only thing that worries me a bit; to get anywhere near the appropriate luminance I had to push the gamma gain for 20 and 30% stimulus all the way to the end of the scale (+50). It's pulled the curves back into shape, but I'm not sure if it's a safe thing to do?
  14. ISF Calibration Photos

    Awesome, thanks for sharing the knowledge. Just checked and I do have APL patterns too (also just did some reading to figure out what APL meant ) so I'll use those. Very keen to see how I go this time. I've noticed recently that on content (mostly compressed - streaming video etc) that has scenes with a lot of nearly-black content, I see a fair bit of what I can best describe as 'posterisation' on the near-black areas. I have a feeling that I may have messed up the gamma around IRE 10/20 trying to compensate for what looked like a bump in that area last time. Whether it was the old meter or the spud using it I'm not sure...
  15. ISF Calibration Photos

    Panasonic VT60 55”. Thing gets pretty damn hot. At night I can make sure the room is pretty dark, but couldn't guarantee there isn't some light leaking in. Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk
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