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oohms

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About oohms

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    Melbourne
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  1. Yep, probably from its 1khz resonance peak.. that's why i ordered the peerless drivers, they should be here in a couple of days Additionally i was exploring the option of a midrange horn somewhere along the lines of Wayne Parnham's one that he uses with the Pi corner horns Initially i ran massive horns on top from 300hz and up, but the treble was compromised So depending on the results with the peerless driver, I'll either keep it a 2 way or make it a 3 way if all else fails
  2. The 1 inch vs 1.4 inch compression driver is a tradeoff between crossover frequency and treble extension. Some 1.4"/2" drivers have good treble, the HF144/146 are supposed to be amongst them, but at the same time you need a larger horn to cross lower The 15PR400 can play fine up to 4khz, which we tested at an audio night by sweeping the crossover to large horn mids between 400hz and 4khz and the sound signature remained the same. The directivity does start narrowing earlier for the larger 15 inch driver, so I wanted to cross it to the 1" horn as close to 1khz as possible for it to
  3. Sad to hear about the waveguides being discontinued, I only got these a couple of months ago I am running passive at the moment but have run them active before. This is the current prototype xo:
  4. I have the HF108r with the qsc clone waveguides and it's an amazing combination, crossed over to a pair of 15pr400's The only downside is that I'm trying to cross them over at about 1100hz, and the faitals have a big impedance peak, so I have a pair of peerless dfm-2535 on their way from parts express. I could happily live with the sound of the hf108r in this setup, but I keep pursuing perfection
  5. To make crossover development easier, I made these switching boxes that accommodate a passive crossover board with flying leads and can switch a 3 way speaker system between the prototype crossover and an external active solution
  6. The drive units they used are special and i doubt they would be available as a part any more. I'd be double checking the solder joints to start with
  7. Nothing beats wine on a Friday night while auditioning a crossover design
  8. Easily 5 $2k pairs, but DIY I can't recall hearing much in the $10k-50k range that i thought was better than something that could be built for 2 grand
  9. It sounds like you have a ground loop
  10. Regular straight flute bits of a good brand (like Diablo) are what I use.. To avoid tearout you can put tape over the cut beforehand. Fancy router bits are often for CNC routers, where they route into exotic materials, and things like chip clearance etc are of most importance, because they basically cut blindly Doing the cut first on lesser/scrap materials is a good idea, as often you can be a millimeter or 2 out, and that will stand out in the final product As you are practicing, the most important things to note are cutting in the right direction and not cutting too d
  11. Cheers! Measuring for EQ/crossover development isn't as daunting as it sounds, you just need some gear, the right software and a fair bit of patience A USB measurement mic and a dayton DATS for speaker impedance measuring is all you need to prototype your own crossovers, then software wise the DATS software for impedance measurement, REW for frequency response, then a combination of Xmachina and Xsim to come up with a crossover and tweak it in software before trying it in real life And then lots of inductors, capacitors, resistors etc 😁
  12. Thanks.. amplification is a Yamaha rx-v1067 through the analog multichannel inputs from the DBX driverack, fed from the Sony receiver After the passive crossover gets sorted, I should be able to use all sorts of low power/valve amps with them This is the lounge at the moment, mounted the horns today
  13. I am running them through a Driverack at the moment but should be able to make a passive crossover for them.. i'll post an update when i do
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