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About oohms

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  1. I was going to try the simple way, by using an AK4137 board to convert pcm to DSD and then filtering it to analogue but it's in the DAC project pile for now..
  2. So I have a RX-A3050 in a 5.2 setup, and I want to connect a set of dipole speakers for movies. and maintain separate rear bookshelf speakers for surround music This would mean that for movies the dipoles would be 'surround' and the bookshelf speakers 'surround back', but then for music, I would need to switch the bookshelf speakers to 'surround' Is there a way to do it with 'scenes'? It seems really complex
  3. With a room of this size/layout, you really should move the couch forward before thinking of 7.1 or atmos - you can always build a plinth for it to extend the step if you have to
  4. Further information: These giant fiberglass horns were purchased off a hi-fi collector who bought these in the 90's and put most of his collection in storage while he worked overseas for a long time. He stated that these are somewhere in between Oris horns and the Azurahorn 160. I am pretty sure they are Tractrix profile They measure 97cm in diameter and 40cm deep, with a 20cm throat made for 8 inch fullrange drivers and there is an embedded piece of timber along one edge of the mouth to aid in mounting as well as 4 plywood blocks that have been epoxied on by the previous ow
  5. Further information: I purchased these off erest a long time ago on ebay. They sound amazing, very clear and detailed. The sound is slightly more refined than the speakers I replaced these with, but I can't fit these in the current setup. The cabinets are divided into two chambers, and the bottom speaker terminals are dummy terminals that can be removed if you want to add sand to additionally deaden them - I never did this. Functionally they are perfect, cosmetically they have some small dings and scratches, which can be seen if you look carefully at the photos. T
  6. Using tape is probably the easiest trick to assemble them, as well as cutting at slightly more than 45 degrees. This guy has some good tips
  7. The Linkwitz LX521 uses 2 very compact tweeters mounted back to back.. I can't find any information on the polarity of them, but it seems to be along the lines of what you're after. Read some of the notes on it as he spent a lot of time designing it, dealing with edge diffraction and the like https://www.linkwitzlab.com/LX521/Description.htm
  8. I guess it depends on the effect you are after.. opposite polarity would complement an open baffle setup, assuming you can get the tweeter close enough, but i suppose in reality it doesn't matter, as the path differences between the front and back waves would be large compared to the wavelength. Try both and see if you can tell a difference
  9. Those cheap mitre saws have too much play in them for this kind of work. You can test this by seeing how much you can move the saw as it is halfway down (powered off, of course) - this means that as you cut, all the various forces at play will pull at the blade and the cut won't be straight If the workpiece/cut is small enough, you can try pivoting the saw instead of tilting it, and make sure you clamp the workpiece. Otherwise for bigger pieces, a table saw or track saw would make a much better cut
  10. This is my workshop.. anything bigger gets built on trestles outside 😄 For nut and bolt storage, i would get the biggest storage container with fixed dividers from bunnings, and sort by thread size something like this: https://www.bunnings.com.au/tactix-328-x-237-x-58mm-large-storage-container-with-divider_p2583556
  11. Above the TV, with the triangular ones in the corners on the opposite wall
  12. Interesting.. i've seen those but always dismissed them.. maybe they are worth a second look
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