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About r3x

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  1. VPI make a nice DD turntable. Brinkman do too. The new technics sp10 looks good.
  2. The SOTA i tried was very well made, had a jewel bearing and vacuum hold down. It's been a looong time, but my impressions were that it was very neutral, but quite the opposite of what i expected in the way of pace. It sounded (but wasn't) a bit slow. I blame the "DC" motor. All the decks i tried with mechanically commutated motors lacked pace. I'd love to try an aussenlaufer (sp?) motor in a SOTA. As for the arm compatibility, any normal pivoted arm should balance OK. Their centre of mass doesn't change as the tube swings one way, the counterweight the other. Rex
  3. Many years ago i tried the combo of the SOTA and ET2. I tried a few cartridges too, OC9 Monster etc. While I thought the Sota was OK, the ET2 upset it's balance. Very soft springs on the SOTA meant that, as the arm traverses the record, the subchassis centre of mass shifted and the level shifted. It did some things really well, but sounded a bit odd at times. I'd buy it just for the arm and sell it with it's alternate arm. Rex
  4. Awesome arm. Poorly suited to the floppy sota.
  5. I tried messing around with the hurst motor, trying to stop the shaft from chattering on the sleeve bearing (even replacing sleeves with ball bearings), messing about with resistors and capacitor networks to try and get a perfect 90 phase offset and equal lower voltages. I gave up in the end. Tried a DC (actually a mechanically commutated AC) motor. Something about them sucks the pace out of the deck. Dunno why. I ended up make a carbon fibre/cedar subchassis and using linn bits, bearings, subplatter etc castoff from someone elses upgrade. It's in storage now. I use a big old kenwood DD mostly. Cheers, Rex
  6. I've had exactly that, and old RB300 on an AR. It was great! Yes rewire first, clean out the bearing and make sure all is good there. Make sure the motor is OK (the hurst motors are kinda crap, lots of room for upgrades there). Cheers, Rex
  7. This is definitely a standard 1/2" mount.
  8. In 86 yrs that'll be about $2.50. Adjusted for inflation, about $30k.
  9. I'm keen on those psu caps if you'll post them.
  10. That inductor (the cored purple one) looks original. No-one would change the inductor and not the cap too. Both seem to be 8 Ohm nominal. I'd leave it unless you can measure how the bass unit interacts with the tweeter. Qts on the redback is 0.25. Low enough to want to port that speaker. Is there a port on the back?
  11. You wont find an original bass driver for this. Best thing you could do is optimise the cabinet for the TS parameters of your redback.
  12. The rain has to be pretty bad. It's funny that it can be fine all day, but come around 6pm the bandwidth shrinks to not very much. Does everyone watch Netflix during dinner?
  13. High latency (1.2 seconds) doesn't matter. It is the frequent drop outs that make it suck.
  14. Love the celefs, sold mine to a friend. He's butchered them by installing them into different enclosures (don't ask). Argh. Have you considered mod'ing the feedback loop on the leak to provide a volume control? Ditch the quad and make something that can isolate each switched out source. IME, digital sources sound better attached via a transformer. Dunno why. I have a few theories, not sure which one is right.
  15. I get myself together most mornings. Anyone else here on N.I.?
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