rand129678

No worries at all. They've locked it down the way Apple iTunes has been locked down for years. To sign up for a US account you need a US credit card with US billing address. A VPN won't help, just like it's never helped with iTunes US store. But hopefully we won't have to wait too long. Send Amazon Music AU a request like a couple of us have done. Doesn't hurt.

@hlov are you 100% sure that's the new HD plan? And not just the regular Amazon Music plan (which is available in Oz). I don't see any of the HD or ultraHD symbols in your screenshot. There should be a few ultraHD Miles Davis albums. Can you have a look for the symbols. Try on the Desktop app if you can.

You have incredible luck. Be sure to grab a Powerball ticket tomorrow! Just double checking - an Australian credit card AND it's Australian billing address worked for you? Doesn't work for me. And I tried it on my Telstra SIM iPad too.

So it accepted your Australian credit card as payment for the 90 day trial?

Can you share how? Others with a VPN can try your method too and report back.

It's definitely a question of when, not if. They've gone with the top 4 markets to start with - Australia is right up there though, so we're next in line (hopefully).

Same issue for me. I've also contacted Amazon Australia and they've also submitted a request to their Business Team. Hopefully more people do this.

As per thread title and opening post, he's looking for the opposite of what your iFi does...

But also remember a streamer can still be electrically coupled to all analogue electronics (via DAC)... as I discussed a page back.... As I noted a page back, anything electrically de-coupled from one's analogue electronics is not much a concern (for example any grounding issues in Tidal's server rooms overseas, when I'm streaming Tidal). But for anything electrically coupled to analogue electronics, none of these shielded ethernet cables are recommended, unless you know what you're doing with system grounding... There's some exceptions. I mentioned a page back Belden's 10GX series Cat 6a cable which has a 'floating shield' design... But otherwise, this is a nice way for shielded cables to sound different to bog standard UTP cables...

A page back I already noted: "Of course if you have a good handle of your system's grounding then it's a non issue. " As I mentioned, if unsure bog standard UTP with plastic connectors on both ends is a safe bet.

As I mentioned a page back though, just be careful you're not providing a nice ground loop path (AC leakage / ground currents) through your DAC and other analogue electronics... with STP cable, with shield continuous with metal connectors on both ends. That's a nice way for certain ethernet cables to sound different to bog standard Cat 5e/6 UTP... If unsure, UTP with plastic connectors on both ends is a safe bet.

I've only skimmed through the thread so apologies if this has been covered... But if it hasn't... One problem with audiophile cables (apart from being pricey and not knowing their tech specs) is they are STP with metal connectors on both ends... There is a mechanism by which these ethernet cables can sound different... STP cable with metal connectors on each end can provide a nice ground loop path, potentially carrying noise (AC leakage / ground currents) through to your analogue components. Whether there are any audible effects will always be system dependent. To avoid this issue I use Cat 6 UTP with plastic connectors on each end, especially in the music listening setup. You can get shielded ethernet cables with a 'floating shield' design, like Belden's 10GX series Cat 6A cable. Or if going the DIY route, just make sure the shield is disconnected from the connectors and/or using plastic connectors... Of course if you have a good handle of your system's grounding then it's a non issue. And of course I'm talking about cables coupled to the analogue electronics in the music listening system... when I'm listening to Tidal I don't care about any ground loops they have in their server rooms, since most of us are fiber optically isolated from that. But for stuff directly electrically coupled to your analogue electornics, it may be important... (depending on overall system)

If you're not having any issues then there's no reason to change anything. But if you start getting dropouts the very first thing I'd try is hardwire your Roon Core to your router. While endpoints can all work fine over WiFi, it is strongly recommended to have the Roon Core hardwired to the router. The reason is because of the way Roon works, the number of 'hops' involved if everything (including Roon Core) is on WiFi: https://community.roonlabs.com/t/kef-ls50-wireless-unstable-connection/52366/57 But until you hear any issues (dropouts) there's no rush to do this.

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