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Everything posted by rmpfyf

  1. Item: IKEA Lack TV media stand brown Price Range: free Item Condition Used Extra Info: Around 400*1200 eyeballing it. A few scratch es on top. PM me if interested.
  2. Was going to suggest brush plates - make life pretty easy. You're likely to cross studs at that point so I'd bank on (much) longer cabling, going up through the top plate and into the ceiling cavity then back down to where you need to go. A minute with a stud finder will tell you all you need to know. (I'd get a level out and reset that ADSL socket whilst at it.)
  3. John, be imaginative - rather than a call to crack out the soldering iron, I'd tell Weiss they need to up their game with a prototype optical in version of what you have, and that in being a valued customer you'll trial it for them against that which you already have
  4. There are a few schools of approach here. We can keep adding/trying towards better results, and note where steps are directionally correct. This isn't bad at all, it's just not accessible for everyone to trailblaze. We're fortunate that you and others continue to share your journeys to these ends accordingly. Some of the rest of us need to try to pick apart the science/engineering involved to guide choices. To the latter I'd offer that along the optical cable there's bugger all EMI along the line. Assuming the conversion works as a gateway with usual NICs then there's a clock in the converter too, and related hardware that affects, ultimately, packet jitter. That's it IMHO. You're not hearing 'optical', you're hearing packet timing. Optical = directionally correct. Compromised timing = directionally incorrect. Mod your Weiss with an optical NIC and feed it from a 2960's SFP and you'd be closer to seeing what optical can do IMHO
  5. Not sure about that but would make for an interesting experiment. If it's reclocking (suspect they are) then slot in a nicer oscillator, make the PSU as genuinely independent as can be, get oscillator power on a nice LDO and Robert is your mother's brother. From a 'clean the stuff upstream' perspective fibre certainly takes care of EMI along the upstream line; you're really just left with timing out. 'Most' of the 'nasties' might emerge there though that's relative to 'how many are left'. You've got to have a problem/opportunity to be able to fix it.
  6. Not true - plenty of technical applications using fibre for 1-5m runs. Conversion has no nasties. PSU maybe. Again if assuming the data gets there just fine, the only thing affected is timing, whether via PSU or non. Noise along cable a non-issue though. Most issues with fibre IMHO are at the receive end - timing's as good as what you use to convert back to Ethernet if that's what you've got. Most have an RJ45. Best way is a fibre NIC in a PC/whatever with a well-clocked source at the other end. I'm a few months away from this experiment though will report back when complete.
  7. Not surprising, writing's been on the wall here for a while. Wouldn't have changed whether we 'owned' the icon or not. Our market is a very small fish in a very large pond. If we go LHD and international standards this might change. That's probably inevitable too.
  8. @Peter the Greek can I ask how you got rid of bubbles? Some of the better places (e.g. ConcreteFX) use a full-on shaker table. Wife now seeking concrete countertops.
  9. Don't get me wrong, I have reference tracks too, most analogue-y with very little studio asshattery, and when I'm doing development work to listen for differences I go to these track and with various pre/post processing. I get what I need, I invite others to listen. But when I bought my main DAC it was a visit to someone's place that was one of the people behind the product and he played some tracks. It was amazing. It sat me down proper. I hope the D90 does similarly.
  10. To review a DAC I need to listen to it and see if it makes me happy. Anything more is overthinking it. If people here are happy with D10's, all power to them.
  11. I've got a ton of it left over from a marble splashback project... it's part of the concrete 'motivation' Got any links on how you put your job together? It looks amazing. Even brought my wife to SNA - rare.
  12. Right @Chanh @Tasso anyone else, need a little advice I have a spare room my wife wants audio in and she loves an old Antec HTPC case I have. The motherboard in it isn't quite grunty enough for the 4K display in there (it'll be for sale soon) so to get out of jail cheaply I've bought an Asrock J4105-ITX board to slot in there. Fanless and all that so less complaints. There's an ATX power supply in the box that I can gut out and plenty of room left after removing what was a mATX motherboard. I have a spare PicoPSU that's perfect for this role. Is there a ~19V very regulated linear power supply that I can screw into the chassis that'll do the ~30W or so the PC needs? Planning on teeing off a +5VDC on an LDO for the SSD. (Then complete silence and happy wife).
  13. We have concluded we'll meet over a beer - this is a good outcome for a discussion involving listening tests I'll concede to having heard the difference between good plugs and crappy ones. Admittedly these were A/B tests on a fast plug/unplug as we were doing some electrical works and replacing things. 'Twas a little bit eye opening, though admittedly the stuff I was replacing wasn't just crap, it was vintage crap from the early 70's. The 'good clean mate and leave it there for a while' I can concede on my interconnects. Haven't had the chance to test with power outlets meaningfully. Next upgrade will run a better set for the listening room and give that a go.
  14. Keep us posted, I'm keen to see how it goes - want to try for our kitchen.
  15. So to get an honest opinion of this DAC I have to have someone that hasn't read this thread and doesn't know what ASR is to have a listen. Bloomin' 'ell.
  16. And @audiofeline if your equipment allows you'll probably do more replacing the IEC with something better engineered. @Hytram mentioned Neutrik that does some excellent power transfer sets that smoke an IEC - @Zaphod Beeblebrox I believe has mentioned the parts in question (I could be wrong, it's many threads ago). (If your equipment allows!)
  17. Ha. Large assumption there, amusingly incorrect, unnecessarily made. Hopefully we reconcile that over a beer one day. No sh*t. You're into contact mechanics. And you're welcome to find plug/socket assemblies that quote contact resistance - they do exist and are not quoted pressure variable. Because (as per my first post in this thread) most (reputable) vendors engineer for removal requirements as a safety mechanism. I could extend the hugging analogy quite amusingly here. You're welcome to call Schneider or whoever else and have that chat with them; the answer won't differ. If you want to get properly electrochemical on things here a set with good mating tolerances and sufficient measures (stiffness, interlock etc) to minimise movement in the interface does a good bit. In English, get a mating Clipsal 56 series set, 20A, clean both sides free of impurities before mating, put it together then leave it alone. It'll improve over time. The additional area is likely to provide benefit beyond additional pressure. This advice/nonsense/whatever is not changed from my first post. (If you want to up the contact strength significantly beyond this why bother with a disconnect at all.)
  18. Boo. I've got a piece 700x1800. LETOBamboo has what you need if going that way, though I love concrete if you can swing it. Get those air bubbles out!
  19. If you have contact area and relatively good surface quality then pressure doesn't matter. Go hug someone, you're not in greater contact with someone hugging you both unless you're averse or otherwise incorrectly engaged with the first person. If the cable remains in contact at the interface then there is nothing to oxidise at the interface. How would oxygen get in? I don't unplug my stuff that often. You'll do far more for net conductivity with more conductive materials than you will with more pressure on the same material. A bass connector set will not conduct like pure copper over the same interfacing area if squeezed tighter together. Basic science here. Things get expensive because people believe otherwise.
  20. Really depends what you need (though I love concrete - you will pay for it in the time you need to put into it, and you'll want whatever's underneath it - 500mm x 500mm x 50mm is already a touch over 30kg w/rebar). Worth thinking about if you're into a matching floating shelf. What are your dimensions? I might have a piece of 40mm bamboo kicking that's already two-packed on one side around if you like strand-woven non-carbonised. A very hard-wearing engineered timber. Can be made satin or matt with ease.. But if you really want 50mm+ you need to rebate or glue it - though then you're free to use anything. A bit of chipboard on the inside (the same as what any stonemason would do) from a ~20mm sheet and you're away. You can get laminated panels from Bunnings now in just about anything - I'm working on an ash panel from Bunnings at present, was around a hundred for 600x2200 or so, and it's coming up brilliantly.
  21. For safety reasons down here we're a bit fastidious about removal strength, so all this stuff about 'gripping' a contact more makes no sense. Metal to metal bonds are molecular in nature as are any other - once the contact area is established and the bond is made (this can involve time) then pressure does not increase the bond in any meaningful way unless here's something to compress by way of irregular surface quality e.g. you're looking at the wrong thing if you're hoping to find something that 'squashes the blades more' or 'grips harder' - we're just looking for a set made to best tolerances. If we're talking pure contact area then any reputable 20A plug/socket combination will offer more, though you'll need to provision a dedicated circuit to make code.
  22. Sure, but what's it actually doing? There are double the attenuators in line like this. There is effective subnetting. Both replicable without a second switch, arguably at lower cost and more effectively so.
  23. Honestly for the sizes you're looking for I'd first head down to any stonemasons that deal in engineered stone countertops nearby and see what they've got in offcuts. You might get lucky and for a cash sale end up with just what you need, though you'll pay for the edgework if you want anything finished in >20mm thickness. I'm a fan of a bit of grain though so my inclination would be towards a hunk of timber or two, limed and sealed two-pack with a satin finish. Very doable at home, @unclemack. Strand-woven bamboo looks effing amazing in this sort of application and it can be had to 40mm thickness. Liming it can get you some very interesting, very beautiful finishes in the colour range you want, and sufficient coating will get you a completely flat surface. Love the concrete @Peter the Greek. You could also consider laminates - there are some very decent finishes to be had. Check out goflatpacks.com.au if you want to see options and get samples.
  24. Say it ain't so all mine are Panas, and they replaced a Kuro, which replaced a Loewe. Very sad.
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