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rmpfyf

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About rmpfyf

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  1. Think about how a DC blocker works - you've ideally described what it does, which is not the same thing. Under certain circumstances you may end up with more DC noise, which may or may not be relevant. You don't say. Many audiophile rigs - including some iso trans sold by a prominent local vendor - don't pass Earth. Some members have even been recommended a second, separate Earth stake. Again, implementation specific - as mentioned in the original comment. Sure. Though get practical - whoever requests works usually won't be the last user or homeowner, so work smart so that it's unambigious for the next person. Which is why most homes run more than a single power circuit. The comment reflected the OPs original notion of going big cable, high clamping force, separate circuts. If people want to take physics to the nth degree they're welcome to. If they want 20A wall terminations then AS3000 max demand calcs apply. Never said I was. I'm an engineer in the power industry, sometimes I train sparkies, sometimes I work with them. Got your boots in a little early there. Read again - I run bog standard Clipsal Iconic hardware at mine. On 2.5mm flex. Hardly blue blood. I don't judge people that want better, and whether or not better matters. Not my house, not my rig, not my budget, my monkeys or my circus. Happy to point where physics is in their favour or could be. Whether beyond sensitivity thresholds or not - not judging. Again... no ****. Read the post again. This is mentioned, by myself and others. They belong wherever customers want or need them. I've people that went to extreme lengths to shield and swear by it. Most not. Me neither. They're about as needed as an IP66 rated outlet in a music room. See earlier comments about physics, monkeys and circuses. I'll be gentle here and let your tone speak for itself.
  2. If you run 6mm into a 10A 56 series the block might be good for 6mm cable but not two of them to daisy chain - that's pushing s**t up a wall. If you're running 15A or higher points regardless they all should have their own dedicated breakers at any rate. Heat is better handled with bigger core wire and yes, if you want to run the stuff parallel to others then you can shield as noise is a thing that your equipment may or may not be sensitive to. There are plenty of applications that do this; best to speak with a power systems engineering firm and get a design done or at least some advice. This is not garden variety sparky territory. A day with a good power engineer is around A$1900 and will give better advice than $4k of Shunyata whatever. I'd be mindful of your maximum demand calcs here - 10A counts for either 20 10A GPOs or one 15A outlet, 15A for one 20A outlet. So these discussions assume you have the mains reticulation to suit, and AS3000 doesn't care whether you burn a 20A line to service a few watts on a record deck, it's 15A by the book. Get a few of these going and a usual 63A mains won't cut it - you'll need 3-phase supply. Which you may or may not have already. I'd consider what problems you actually want to solve. Blanket solutions are not the answer because they don't exist. Examples? You can improve earth quality by dropping impedance to ground with better/deeper/better set/more earth stakes. You might also consider avoiding having your audio earth having noise current flowing through it - achieved easily by connecting your existing earth directly to the RCBO for your audio circuit(s) and bypassing the common earth bus. Can do a lot assuming earths not looped silly. Upping earth conductor size is deadnuts easy when wiring. This can all make a significant difference depending what base you start from. A DC blocker can sound nice for small DC rise issues though at large rise will actually contribute more DC noise (think about it). An isolation trans can be good, or it can add a series impedance to an already awesome audio power trans (then some interesting questions abound as to how to make it safe). Connection strength at the wall plate can be solved easy - call Schneider and ask them directly what clamps most in a given size, or uprate your GPO to something with more contact area - a 20A has more area on all three blades. As in a $45 Clipsal Iconic 20A set completely smashes a 56 series 10A for contact area, clamping force, etc irrespective of what any audio shyster that can't compute surface area with zero actual knowledge in metallurgy might say. Real engineers wrote AS/NZS 3112, and Clipsal/Schneider has real liability if a 20A set cannot conduct 2x a 10A set reliably - run with it. I love whenever someone suggests AU plugs/sockets are crap as if the US system is superior... we're light years ahead. Seriously. I can understand arguments about 'but the audiophile stuff is copper and that conducts better'... so just go larger. Problem solved. Small pure copper is not beaten in conductivity by larger not so conductive material. Want lower EMI? Do what the majors do and stick a metal faceplate on it. Can't? Get it machined. Want to reduce resonance if you believe in that much? A bog-stock Iconic runs rubber grommets and is made of plastic... which isn't a particularly awesome conductor of vibes. Or just spend the money mounting your speakers properly. Voltage dancing? Regenerate if your equipment needs this. In a perfect (mains) world you'd have 6mm, uprated earths, 20A outlets for high power analogue, low power analogue and digital all with nice shielded cable and direct earth runs. You would run local conditioning and distribution on the load side. But that's 45A of demand for a sparky to sign off on, and... well it's a lot and you'd want three phase with some pretty light loads for all else. Want to actually quantify your problems? Spend a little on proper metering. It exists if you're serious, and it's cheaper than poking a stick at a problem and hoping it works. Many good Australian firms will manufacture solid distribution, transformer and conditioning solutions. If you specifically know what you're looking for foreign solutions needn't be expensive. Isolation transformer quotes are an excellent example of this. There's a happy medium in there somewhere for your kit and budget, a good power systems person and a schematic will set you on your way to win, and a sparky can implement. Happy to help with references offline if you like.
  3. 20A into an Elsafe distribution and you're golden. Not $2500. 56 makes sense if an industrial environment... You don't need water and dustproofing.
  4. Actually there are quite a few good wall plates out there. I run Clipsal Iconic and they're pretty good - easy to work with, relatively high clamping force and will take very decent wire. You're paying for ingress protection on the 56, which adds nothing to audiophile environments. Though the terminals are specd for 6mm wire, you're still going into usual clamping force and contact area for a 10A socket, and multiples aren't going to be easy to wire. It's money wasted IMHO. Honestly you'd be fine terminating in any single 20A (56 or not), enjoying the higher contact area, and running local distribution to anything you need. You'll have contact losses on any subsequent distribution though... You may want multiple dedicated lines. You might be able to get 6mm into a single Iconic 20A - it's specd for 4x2.5mm. Ask Clipsal or a sparky. And then if you want some EMI protection or whatever, a local shop should be able to make you a suitable metal cover plate... You'll need an inert region but it's doable if you're dedicated, and would smoke a 56 for performance. If length permits (AS3000 will dictate) 4mm with an upgraded earth might do.
  5. @paulrp Any particular reason why the 56 series? And when you intend multiples... I assume this means multiple 10A? Could understand terminating each circuit in its own 20A socket and then using distribution from there, though your demand calcs may vary.
  6. Not exactly true in a not irrelevant way for audio. We put so much work into dropping impedance to ground, and it's so pi** easy at this stage to run some more flex for earth that it's worthy of consideration. Yes, it's not going to do a lot of this isn't either direct connected to the MEN or if the added earth capacity isn't right through the MSB earth layout, though it costs very little to get it very right at this stage.
  7. Consider that a 6mm cable earth isn't 6mm. You may wish to insulate. If you're serious, hire a power systems consultancy. Cheaper than most audiophile solutions and very effective.
  8. +1 million Seriously. It's mixed up by prominent types too.
  9. Item: 4x bags Earthwool R2.0 wall onsulation Location: Melbourne eastern burbs Price: $120 Item Condition: new Reason for selling: got overzealous with the acoustic batts Payment Method: Pickup - Cash, Paypal, COD Only Extra Info: Same as https://www.bunnings.com.au/earthwool-r2-0-90-x-430mm-15-96m2-wall-batts-32-pack_p0810324 - 4x bags to cover 64m2. Brand new. Offered half price.
  10. Go your hardest, you'll be glad you didn't get the Kona. Or another ICE.
  11. Of course not. The point being that their spec includes streaming applications, CAT5e doesn't. Now Ethernet of course can be used in streaming, time-dependent applications, though you'd not be surprised to know that cables typically used are in the realm being discussed here. Sure it can, and some stages can include very nice isolation for these reasons alone. 10GX is a very very nice cable design - though it's effectively the limits of UTP to behave very much like STP. I'd wait a year or two until CAT8 rolls are cheap and terminations are widely available - knocking up something with correctly treated shields is going to be easy.
  12. CAT8 is STP only. Not recommended into a DAC without foreknowledge of how the ground is treated. Remember, a streamer is not a DAC. You'll be using unshielded USB from now on then?
  13. @mctrix as others have mentioned you can't insulate the slider and it'll rattle like a pig after a while, so don't do that. You'll actually want a decent door and proper sealing around it... get familiar with the Raven catalogue. I'd be doing the entire perimeter with R2.7 - really not that more expensive and the difference in performance is useful. I did this just last month on our reno, no regrets. if you want to go nuts on the internal insulation consider a double stud wall with offset framework and no connection between the woodwork. Batts are nice, you'll still get acoustic conductivity through the frame.
  14. Mine's also out for a grease, oil change and new bits! Sad life without our DACs...
  15. IMHO success is a function of what factors we try to best create conditions for relative to what sensitivities we're working against. As @davewantsmoore suggests an ideal situation concerns complete insensitivity upstream, and I maintain that the difference between any ideal and what you've got is - where possible - a cable pull test. If that sounds no different don't spend a dime. Optical converters are something of a mixed bag. Ideally they work very well. Their origins are in industrial applications - as an example they're used in large containerised batteries where control between battery controller and inverter is mission-critical in a time dependent manner - those links will be optical and redundant, because assing up the controls can have something go boom or worse. In an audiophile context, well, some things are applicable. Isolation across the optical connection is awesome, because that's what's intended. It's still a metal connection back into the PC and meaning both the last copper leg matters as does what powers the connection... A poor power characteristic on the converter is going to stuff things up somewhat. Also there's no control over packet size, network behaviours as a function of the converter, etc. There might be control but for most, limited ability. It's an axe of a solution if you know how to swing it. Without visibility of all factors there's a lot at play with the audiophile community relying on a few people to take a cashed punt and comment. But it's a punt. I'll maintain that part is noise up the line - and Ethernet is noisy - again we're relying on superior cable spec for rejection as a primary feature, when it's secondary as a function of a bandwidth specification. There's also a pressing need to limit ethernet traffic to a streaming device so that the ethernet device is interrupting the CPU less often, and no cable can fix that. Lots at play, holistic approaches required. Would offer that a SFP receiver Ina motherboard is probably an awesome solution, into a local router just for music that runs optical similarly. It exists!
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