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Primare Knob

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Everything posted by Primare Knob

  1. Ah, that is before Foxtel was doing online streaming. I suppose you would be able to run a dual output from PC to projector and TV. I haven't run into anything yet that I couldn't do on the PC, although streaming services sometimes don't enable surround sound on their web applications.
  2. The DA converter can be any brand, but not all brands support multichannel USB, even if the DAC support USB which could be limited to stereo only, and a company with a good track record on stable drivers would be preferred. You can always use a different connection like AES/EBU via PCIe which many support but this will add to the cost. It is also nice to keep extension in mind if you looking for more channels, which pro audio converters are better equipped for. Do keep in mind that pro audio works with a +4dBU signal which will result in higher default voltages than the consumer -10dBV. There is also the option of using a multichannel PCIe audio card, but I would look for independent measurements to see how they fare. Ideally you want to look for the (best) DA converter that can give you the most digital headroom above 16bit(CD quality) The best will peak between 20-21 bits of dynamic range which will give you 4-5 bits of headroom or 24-30dB of attenuation. This can be managed for example by using dither and or up scaling and in how DSP is implemented and which bits are effected, but the exact workings are beyond my understanding. This will come in play when you have powerful amplifiers, and or high efficiency speakers and or sitting at a close distance.
  3. I recently bought this thing for $120 AUD (now for $102 AUD incl shipping) and for the money an absolute steal.
  4. I have been looking for a cheap USB DAC with a headphone amp for a PC, and the cheapest I could find that measured well was the Hidenzs for $120 AUD incl shipping. (seems even cheaper now). Today I have received the item and I am instantly impressed. It is serious small which makes it very useful, and it comes complete with all cables, Apple, Micro USB, Mini USB 3, Full USB. What was even better is that it worked with my old Android phone instantly, worked instantly with my old Iphone which refuses to work with it's own headphone adapter, and works on the MAC and Windows PC without a fuss. What is even better, is the SQ, it just puts a smile on my face. I can already see this thing becoming the most used audio device in the house. I am thinking about getting a second one, as I can see it getting lost somewhere in the future. I am not a reviewer, and think it still comes down to personal taste, but I believe this thing will be hard to flaw once you have it. https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/hidizs-s8-usb-c-headphone-adapter-review.10823/ https://www.hidizs.net/products/s8
  5. I would set up the speakers first to find their best (bass) performance and work from there. Are your L and R speakers sitting next to the screen? I have seen a couple of designs with angled baffled walls. This could be an option when toe-in is required. This guy seems to use them a lot in his design http://arqen.com/studio-design/ A different example on AVS https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-dedicated-theater-design-construction/3106228-dutch-confusion-build.html called baffle wings The first post here https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1504351-baffle-wall-constant-directivity-waveguide-speakers-toe.html seems to link a couple of papers regarding toe in and baffle wall. (haven't read them myself) As it seems you have a lot of room behind your baffle, you might want to measure your room already to find acoustic problems in your bass region. Bass traps can take up a lot of space, specially the ones targeted for a specific range. Ideally you want a mix of different type of traps (broadband and targeted (if required)) if you have the space for it. Regarding question 8. Green Glue or some other permanent flexible glue and multiple layers (different Materials )is usually a good idea to fight resonations. Mine isn't really a baffle wall, as it is based upon absorption. I have tested with skyline diffusers directly behind the screen instead of absorption, and this had a big impact on sound-stage, which was brought into to the room much more than with absorption in place.
  6. The Trinnov is a PC with an ATMOS and DTS-X (expensive) license. It doesn't harm to have a good quality CPU in your home server. If you have to do transcoding (especially with subtitles) it will cost some resources. I store full BD copies on the server but run a ChromeCast for the TV, which needs transcoding. Storage definitely cost you, certainly if you run a full back up as well. My home server (and backup) have 14TB each, and I am thinking about once that is full, to skip back up and use the BD discs as backup and just keep an up to date database only back up. The good thing is that the back up PC doesn't have to be expensive and can be run with old hdd's as they are hardly used. Gumtree and hard rubbish are your friends. All of my hardware is old stuff, and at least 8 years old or hanging together with mixed bits and pieces, except for my gaming Graphics Card.
  7. My reasons for walking down this path had to do with the lack of SQ, high depreciation values, over abundance of useless functions and other things that I didn't need. I firmly believe I have better sound quality (for less money), the pro DAC and the 2 channel amps will hold their value better, and I have all the functionality that I need. It also comes with a few caveats. You can't decode Atmos or DTS-X on a PC, it is not the type of setup that is easy for the rest of the family (turning things on and off requires some attention, and your main setup is a PC ), I don't have any inputs (although I could route the AD from the DAC through the PC and out to the DA again), there is no automatic setup for EQ (unless you want to spends some big dollars on software), and component matching is more important than in your general setup as impedance ratios can impact SQ. The benefit is that you have a lot of freedom and that you can do all sorts of things in the digital domain with heaps of digital headroom. I am not sure which road you took previously, but a simple PC can be used as your HT-PC, I think that Parametric EQ isn't heavy to run.
  8. Thanks. You have got that correct idea about my setup. I am using a Lynx Aurora N 8 channel AD/DA converter for the following reasons; - It can handle up to 16 channels via USB (No additional equipment needed) - It is expendable up to 32 channels via input modules - It has a hardware switch to output at +4dBU (pro audio) or at -10dBV (hifi) (good for level matching with different Power Amp input sensitivities) - Hifi quality DA converter (compared it with my Bryston BDA-2 ) - Good amount of output voltage - Can make recordings via USB onto SD-Card (fun to have bonus)
  9. I believe that is called fast start up, or used the be called (hybrid) hibernation, and it can be turned off. Lots of problems with this, and even bigger problems when something goes wrong during start up. System File Check sfc.exe is your new best friend in Windows 10.
  10. It has been a while since my last update, but I have been playing around with 4 subs, and I turned my 7.2 setup into a 6.4 setup by sacrificing one surround back channel and turn it into a separate sub channel. I setup my main subs for LFE duty, my old subs for Bass Management for all speaker except Left and Right, and turned my back surround speakers into two mono speakers. I did set it up in such a way so that I could switch between my 6.4 setup and 7.2 setup for comparison. The extra subs do bring extra weight to the show, but this can also be achieved by dialing up the subs by +6dB. As long as the subs have the headroom to do this I could not pick one from the other reliably. Turning the back surrounds into two mono speakers did have more impact then anticipated. With sound effects, I could pick one over the other if I really tried, but nothing that would spoil the soundtrack, or would be picked up while watching a movie, but the thing that always stood out in the 6.4 setup where the ambient sounds. They would pop out more and rather spoil the effect of the soundtrack. Since I listen at -12.5 dBFS below reference, my subs have the headroom to be dialed up a bit more, and I am not a big fan of to much bass anyway so I have reverted back to the 7.2 setup again. I am limited to 8 channels at the moment which suite my purpose just fine. The other thing that I found during testing, and only listening to sub bass, was that frequencies below 20Hz are rather unpleasant to listen to, and cause quite a bit of pressure on the ears. I am now rolling off my subs with a rather steep slope down from 17Hz, as I could not distinguish the difference between any of the tones lower than that. This has planted the idea to introduce some bass shakers in the future, but this would require an additional cross over or adding some extra channels to the DA converter.
  11. Further information: Up for sale are my 2 (small factor) subwoofers. These have a 12" down firing woofer with two 10" passive radiators on the side. Items can be split, and one of them has some more markings on the top than the other and will be cheaper priced. They both have build in EQ but you need to buy the paradigm PBK mic to be able to use it. (not included) Both can be shipped into their original packaging. Specifications can be found here https://www.paradigm.com/en/sealed/ultracube-12 Thanks to its design and use of passive radiators (also makes for great handles for carrying) these are rather small in size which makes them easy to fit into a common living room, and having 2 subs you are better equipped to deal with room modes, and you get a 6dB increase, compared to one sub. Photos: Advertisements without photos of the actual item will not be approved.
  12. Have been away for a while. I don't have that particular movie, so I can't test it. I did a similar check using the analyzer with War of the Worlds, which showed the high levels, but all channels were more in sync.
  13. Not to silly a question after all. Although I don't understand the underlying problem yet, it is related to the network adapter. I have a dual port adapter setup as a bridge. Each port has a MAC address port 8A and port 8B. Mac Adress 8A gets assigned a fixed IP address, and when both ports are bridged it's received the 8A MAC address, or it is piggy backing on the port with the MAC address assigned with 8A. For some reason this bridge doesn't seem to function. When I delete the bridge everything is fine, but with the bridge in place everything falls apart. More research needed, but at least I know where to look now. Thanks for pointing the simple things.
  14. All my IP addresses are fixed and pushed out via the router. I think that when windows resets a network adapter, it actually powers off and on the device.
  15. Yesterday I have taken the plunge into updating my computers from Windows 1709 to Windows 1909. All things went rather smoothly apart from some network/internet connection issues which could be resolved with a network adapter reset. However, I am running one PC as my central media library with; Kodi and a MySQL database and JRiver Media Center24. Now I have found out that I no longer can connect to these media libraries/data bases, via my network. Kodi on a separate PC cannot reach/access the MySQL database running on my central media server Jriver cannot being accessed via a browser on a different PC. Can be accessed locally via browser on the central media server Jriver cannot being accessed via Jriver with remote library on a different PC. Gizmo app cannot access JRiver running on my central media server. File sharing and internet all work between my different computers, and all can access files remotely from my central media server. (on my local network) Turning off the firewall on the central media server doesn't resolve this issue. Turning SMB1 didn't solve things either, and hasn't changed between version 1709 and 1909 Reinstalling MC24 didn't help either Installing the kb4554364 patch didn't help either Server and workstation services are both running on the central media server Anyone else who might have an idea about what to do? I am suspecting a service not running, or a new network security feature implemented that I am not aware off.
  16. Check, Check, double Check. All scene are fine for my subs incl bass management. I had to adjust the low frequency roll off for the subs with the War of the Worlds scene as they seem to be hitting x-max. Still the frozen scene is a troubled scene for some reason. It is not the frequency that is the issue, it is the level send to the amp that is troubling. It is (nearly) driving the amp into clipping and it al just sounds wrong. Send bass management to a second pair of subs (testing with this option at the moment), and it all sounds a lot smoother and cleaner. I think I might have found an indicator. The second lines ( on top of each other) below the cyan for Sub is the level for the Left and Right surround speaker. Their level is out of line with the surround back speakers, and louder than the main speakers. I'll have to check the setting on that.
  17. I can't really understand it either. I did an analysis of some scenes and there is nothing out of the ordinary. The third pic is the troubled scene, but the other scenes don't give me issues which is funny. Bass Management adds about 7dB on top of the LFE and peaks at -13.5dB at my preferred volume setting at the troubled scene. When I playback only LFE at 100% volume the LFE channel peaks at -10dB and doesn't distort. I am getting the idea that bass management is a bit funny and need to take another look at it inside JRiver. Which scenes do you mean with Tron Legacy, War of the Worlds and World War Z. I have these movies. World War Z has at least 2 grenade scenes in it. Can you give me a rough indication of the time line?
  18. !!! SPOILER ALERT !!! If you don't like to know some details about the movie you might not want to read any further. In Frozen 2 on Blu Ray( with the DTS HD master audio track) near the end of the film Elsa is saving Arendelle from a tidal wave by waving her magic. This moment is accompanied by a massive push in the low frequencies and pushes my subs into distortion. The problem seems to come from using bass management for my 5 speakers (excl Left and Right in a 7.1 setup). I have to cut the bass management down by an additional -5dB for each bass managed speaker to get rid of distortion, and this is at a volume level that is -10dB down from reference. No other movie has presented this problem. Deep Water Horizon, Masters and Commanders, Apollo 13, First Man, etc are all within limits without distortions. I am wondering if anyone else has encountered this problem and if this could be flaw in the mixing of the sound track?
  19. I think my previous posted might be quite some time back. The drivers are Dayton 15" RSS390HO, specifically meant for smaller enclosures.
  20. It has taken me some time as I had this planned a lot sooner, but I finally found the time to finish my subwoofers. It has been a nice project, although the bamboo floor boards used for the outer skin has proven to be challenging for my basic tools. The subs have the external dimension of 440mmx440mmx440mm, and uses timber legs to sit on top of a concrete paver (base) with rubber feet. I find this to work better on a floating floor instead of having them sit directly onto the floor. I did the same thing for my main speakers. They are made out of an 18mm MDF inner shell with 3D bracing, and are cladded with a 14mm bamboo flooring outer shell. They are externally powered by a Behringer iNuke power amp, which I still have to modify because the fans inside are too loud for quiet movie scenes. They weigh about 40KG each without the base.
  21. The methods I used are Research, Measurements, Try and Error. All my acoustics are based on the principle of absorption and random reflections (simplified diffusion). If you go about this yourself you need to do research to understand how and what works to which extend, then the best way to go about it is going step by step. Tackle one problem at the time, test-measure-listen-adjust-repeat. My ceiling is just a bunch of timber slats/strips with absorption behind it. You can use any kind of absorption, but the ones which gas flow values are know, are preferred, as you use that in (online) acoustic modeling software to give you rough estimates. The acoustic forum is a good place to start your research as well as google. Your best weapon is to know what works, and why, or what doesn't work and why. There are general treatment ideas for theater rooms which you can use as a starting point, and adjust from there, test-measure-listen-adjust-repeat. Edit: I forgot about Subwoofer placement and listen position, which can help out a great deal (for free), and some minor EQ at LFE levels where acoustic treatment is difficult.
  22. It has taken me some time as I had this planned a lot sooner, but I finally found the time to build my own subwoofers. It has been a nice project, although the bamboo floor boards used for the outer skin has proven to be challenging for my basic tools. The result however is pleasing and more importantly according to plan regarding my goals and expectations. I don’t really know how loud the max is, as I haven’t pushed things to the extreme, but it can reach 115dB at -3dBFS down to 17Hz. Why it is starting to slope down quite rapidly starting at 17Hz I haven’t figured out yet. It slopes down by 8dB rather quick and then start to level out at the SPL when I run a sweep starting at 10Hz. Due to acoustic treatment, sub placement and listen position the non EQ output isn’t too bad, and with a little EQ, I get a nice sloping curve which is +3dB at 20Hz. I haven’t EQ-ed the peak at 140Hz, as I cross over the subs at 80Hz with a 48dB/Octave slope. My system is tuned to output 80dB at -20dBFS instead of the generic 85dB, as I never listen at 85dB because I find it simply too loud, and usually have the volume control sitting at 75dB. The subs have the external dimension of 440mmx440mmx440mm, and uses timber legs to sit on top of a concrete paver (base) with rubber feet. I find this to work better on a floating floor instead of having them sit directly onto the floor. I did the same thing for my main speakers. They are made out of an 18mm MDF inner shell with 3D bracing, and are cladded with a 14mm bamboo flooring outer shell. They are externally powered by a Behringer iNuke power amp, which I still have to modify because the fans inside are too loud for quiet scenes. They weigh about 40KG each without the base. Not sure yet what I want to do with the old subs, as I don’t have any placement options to smooth out the SPL levels, and don’t need the extra output level. I am considering to use them as Subs for bass management for all my other speakers except mains, but I have to do some research to see if there is any benefit in that, as I have to reconfigure my system to a 6.2 setup with 9 speakers. I haven’t tested yet to see if there is a down side to running the surround backs in mono compared to stereo.
  23. It is surprisingly relaxing and calming to be in the happy zone. The rush is gone and I have more time to enjoy.
  24. I am not sure how changing the height of the LP is related to the back wall? Any movement of the LP towards the back doesn't help with this dip. I have made many measurements across multiple seats. My seat to seat variance is pretty good. Changing the LP (mic) from 90cm high to 145cm high is the first measurement that actually helps. I was leaning towards SBIR as well. I have done the reverse subwoofer crawl, but only measured up the half way height of the room (125cm) at the current Subwoofers positions, and not beyond that, which didn't show any significant chance. Neither did the testing yesterday where I have to pass the half way height of the room before effect takes place.
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