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Primare Knob

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  1. I think my previous posted might be quite some time back. The drivers are Dayton 15" RSS390HO, specifically meant for smaller enclosures.
  2. It has taken me some time as I had this planned a lot sooner, but I finally found the time to finish my subwoofers. It has been a nice project, although the bamboo floor boards used for the outer skin has proven to be challenging for my basic tools. The subs have the external dimension of 440mmx440mmx440mm, and uses timber legs to sit on top of a concrete paver (base) with rubber feet. I find this to work better on a floating floor instead of having them sit directly onto the floor. I did the same thing for my main speakers. They are made out of an 18mm MDF inner shell with 3D bracing, and are cladded with a 14mm bamboo flooring outer shell. They are externally powered by a Behringer iNuke power amp, which I still have to modify because the fans inside are too loud for quiet movie scenes. They weigh about 40KG each without the base.
  3. The methods I used are Research, Measurements, Try and Error. All my acoustics are based on the principle of absorption and random reflections (simplified diffusion). If you go about this yourself you need to do research to understand how and what works to which extend, then the best way to go about it is going step by step. Tackle one problem at the time, test-measure-listen-adjust-repeat. My ceiling is just a bunch of timber slats/strips with absorption behind it. You can use any kind of absorption, but the ones which gas flow values are know, are preferred, as you use that in (online) acoustic modeling software to give you rough estimates. The acoustic forum is a good place to start your research as well as google. Your best weapon is to know what works, and why, or what doesn't work and why. There are general treatment ideas for theater rooms which you can use as a starting point, and adjust from there, test-measure-listen-adjust-repeat. Edit: I forgot about Subwoofer placement and listen position, which can help out a great deal (for free), and some minor EQ at LFE levels where acoustic treatment is difficult.
  4. It has taken me some time as I had this planned a lot sooner, but I finally found the time to build my own subwoofers. It has been a nice project, although the bamboo floor boards used for the outer skin has proven to be challenging for my basic tools. The result however is pleasing and more importantly according to plan regarding my goals and expectations. I don’t really know how loud the max is, as I haven’t pushed things to the extreme, but it can reach 115dB at -3dBFS down to 17Hz. Why it is starting to slope down quite rapidly starting at 17Hz I haven’t figured out yet. It slopes down by 8dB rather quick and then start to level out at the SPL when I run a sweep starting at 10Hz. Due to acoustic treatment, sub placement and listen position the non EQ output isn’t too bad, and with a little EQ, I get a nice sloping curve which is +3dB at 20Hz. I haven’t EQ-ed the peak at 140Hz, as I cross over the subs at 80Hz with a 48dB/Octave slope. My system is tuned to output 80dB at -20dBFS instead of the generic 85dB, as I never listen at 85dB because I find it simply too loud, and usually have the volume control sitting at 75dB. The subs have the external dimension of 440mmx440mmx440mm, and uses timber legs to sit on top of a concrete paver (base) with rubber feet. I find this to work better on a floating floor instead of having them sit directly onto the floor. I did the same thing for my main speakers. They are made out of an 18mm MDF inner shell with 3D bracing, and are cladded with a 14mm bamboo flooring outer shell. They are externally powered by a Behringer iNuke power amp, which I still have to modify because the fans inside are too loud for quiet scenes. They weigh about 40KG each without the base. Not sure yet what I want to do with the old subs, as I don’t have any placement options to smooth out the SPL levels, and don’t need the extra output level. I am considering to use them as Subs for bass management for all my other speakers except mains, but I have to do some research to see if there is any benefit in that, as I have to reconfigure my system to a 6.2 setup with 9 speakers. I haven’t tested yet to see if there is a down side to running the surround backs in mono compared to stereo.
  5. It is surprisingly relaxing and calming to be in the happy zone. The rush is gone and I have more time to enjoy.
  6. I am not sure how changing the height of the LP is related to the back wall? Any movement of the LP towards the back doesn't help with this dip. I have made many measurements across multiple seats. My seat to seat variance is pretty good. Changing the LP (mic) from 90cm high to 145cm high is the first measurement that actually helps. I was leaning towards SBIR as well. I have done the reverse subwoofer crawl, but only measured up the half way height of the room (125cm) at the current Subwoofers positions, and not beyond that, which didn't show any significant chance. Neither did the testing yesterday where I have to pass the half way height of the room before effect takes place.
  7. I recently had the chance to test my sub build outside, with the mic place 1 meter away. I think the result is pretty decent. Blue line is the Win ISD modelled SPL output with an 800W signal. Red Line is the measured SPL output with an unknown wattage signal, peaking at 122dB.
  8. A: Not really, and that doesn't help either B: I don't have a bar stool, but it is a 4dB increase which is pretty good in a frequency range that covers a lot of instruments.
  9. Hi, I am searching for possibilities to fix this 55Hz dip and yesterday I found that by placing the mic at 145cm from the floor at the Listen Position does the job. This dip doesn't seem to be a room node (related to height (70Hz) so what are my options, beside sitting sitting on a bar stool? I am in the process of building and adding 2 subs to my setup, but since it doesn't look like a room node I don't think that placing two extra subs near the ceiling will be the cure.
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Season 07 Watched once Big Bang Theory Season 08 Watched once Big Bang Theory Season 09 Watched once Big Bang Theory Season 10 Watched once Big Bang Theory Season 11 Watched once Blade Runner Watched once Blood Diamond Ex Rental Watchable Bourne Identity Watched once Bourne Jason Watched once Bourne Legacy Watched once Bourne Supremacy Watched once Bourne Ultimatum Watched once Brave Ex Rental Good Braveheart Watched once Bridges of Spies Watched once Bridget Jones Diary Watched once Bridget Jones the Edge of Reason Watched once Cars 3 Watched once Casino Royal Ex Rental Watchable Cast Away Watched once Catch Me If You Can Watched once Charlie and the Choclate Factory Watched once Charlie Wilson's War Watched once Chronicle Watched once Cloud Atlas Ex Rental Watchable Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs 2 3D+2D Ex Rental Good Coco Watched once Contact Watched once Contagion Ex Rental Good Da Vinci Code Watched once Daddy's Home Watched once Dawn of the Planet of the Apes Watched once 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  11. We have it insured under home and context with a specified value for audio gear, as the insured value for standard coverage isn't sufficient enough.
  12. I am not familiar with any, but the ones that can set delay/timing might be more useful.
  13. What type of cables are you running, and what type of red white terminal? It is unlikely that you can mix them. Have you thought about using a wireless transmitter and receiver for the sub?
  14. Where is your TV going to be placed, above the fire place? Where are you planing the center speaker, and is your potential screen going to cover it? If you are going to run wires through ceilings and walls, then just "wire" it for the max. Run conduits instead of plain wires if you can, and run a pull string through them upfront, if possible. Keep in mind that HDMI cables are terminated with a rather wide plug. Run ethernet as well to the projector, and your TV, it's always helpful in automation or HDMI over Ethernet. Hang your projector in a convenient spot, most modern projector won't have a problem with light output for 2K with your room length, But 4K might be a different story. Projector Central has an online calculator that will come in handy. Wire for 2 subs if you can, but you'll have to figure placement out, up front. Well placed subs can deal with nulls and peaks where EQ can only deal with peaks. A "subwoofer crawl" would the best option to determine this. Run some ceiling cornices around your projector and potential motorised screen to integrate them into the room.
  15. Have a look at some pro audio amps, they can be quite powerful, cheap, but also loud. Sometimes you can do a mod to deal with the loud fans inside such amps.
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